Soy Bean

Symptoms: dark sunken lesions on pods with reddish-brown borders; pink spore ooze in pod lesions; dark angular lesions along leaf veins on undersides; sunken streaks on stems and petioles

• CulturalUse certified clean seed and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant certified anthracnose-free seed and rotate at least 2 years away from beans, since the fungus is seedborne and survives in debris; do not save seed from infected plants.

  Source: Cornell; UConn IPM

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• CulturalAvoid working wet plants and remove debris●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Stay out of the bean patch when foliage is wet and remove or bury crop debris after harvest, since spores spread by water and on hands and tools.

  Source: UConn IPM; Cornell

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• ChemicalApply protectant fungicide in cool wet seasons· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  In cool, wet conditions that favor disease, apply a protectant fungicide preventively per the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Cornell

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Symptoms: sudden wilting and collapse of peppers or squash; dark water-soaked lesions at the crown or stem base; white cottony growth on infected fruit; root and crown rot; vine and fruit rot after heavy rain or in wet low spots

• CulturalRemove affected plants at first sign (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Infected plants can't be saved; promptly pull and destroy them at the start of an outbreak to slow spread, and avoid working in beds when wet.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

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• CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterlogging●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant on raised beds, never let beds stay saturated, and water with drip rather than flooding, since this water mold thrives in standing water and saturated soil.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

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• CulturalRotate and choose tolerant varieties●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Rotate out of peppers, cucurbits, and tomatoes for at least three years where the disease has occurred, and select tolerant or resistant varieties when available.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables

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Symptoms: poor patchy stands and damping-off; reddish-brown to black rotted roots; pinched, discolored stem near soil line (wirestem); yellowing, stunted, wilting plants in wet or compacted soil

• CulturalPlant into warm, well-drained soil and avoid compaction●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant in warm, well-drained soil, relieve compaction, and avoid overwatering, since Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, and Aphanomyces all thrive in cool, wet, compacted conditions. Once roots rot there is no cure.

  Source: NDSU Extension; CSU Extension

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• CulturalUse long rotations●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Rotate several years away from beans and peas (longer where Aphanomyces is present, since its spores persist 10+ years) and avoid fields with a root-rot history.

  Source: NDSU Extension

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• ChemicalUse fungicide seed treatment●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Plant fungicide-treated seed, which is effective against Pythium and Rhizoctonia at establishment, per the label; note seed treatments do not control Aphanomyces.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: NDSU Extension; CSU Extension

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Symptoms: galls or knots along roots; stunted plants; yellowing and midday wilting that recovers at night; poor vigor despite good care; patchy poor growth in beds

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then rotate (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Root-knot nematodes can't be eradicated from garden soil, so confirm via a county Extension nematode assay and rotate beds to non-hosts or resistant varieties (look for VFN-type resistance in tomato).

  Source: Clemson HGIC; UF/IFAS

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• CulturalPlant suppressive cover/rotation crops●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  A solid planting of French marigolds grown 2+ months and turned under, or cover crops such as sorghum-sudangrass or cowpea, can lower populations between susceptible crops.

  Source: UF/IFAS; Clemson HGIC

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• CulturalSanitation and organic matter●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid moving infested soil on tools or transplants, build soil organic matter to support beneficial organisms, and keep plants well watered to help them tolerate root damage.

  Source: UC IPM; Clemson HGIC

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Symptoms: sudden wilting in hot weather; yellowing then collapse of whole plant; white fan-like mold mat at the stem base and soil; tan-brown mustard-seed-sized sclerotia near soil line; girdled rotted lower stem

• CulturalRemove infected plants and surrounding soil (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Once a plant collapses it can't be cured; dig out the plant plus the top few inches of nearby soil containing sclerotia and dispose of it, avoiding spread on tools.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press; UC IPM

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• CulturalBury residue and rotate●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Deep-turn soil to bury sclerotia, remove crop debris at season end, and rotate susceptible solanaceous and legume crops with grasses for several seasons.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

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• CulturalAdjust soil pH and plant early●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Maintain soil pH at the level recommended for the crop, since the disease is worse in low-pH soils, and time plantings so harvest begins before peak summer heat favors the fungus.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

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Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

• CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalOpen the canopy and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalWater at the base, not overhead●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: water-soaked spots that brown with yellow margins; halo blight shows pale-green halos around spots; large dead blotches on leaves; spots and oozing on pods; spreads in wet weather

• CulturalUse clean seed and keep foliage dry●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Start with fresh certified seed, avoid overhead watering, and never work among wet bean plants; remove infected debris and don't replant beans in that spot for two to three years.

  Source: UMass Extension: Bean Halo Blight; Clemson HGIC: Bean & Southern Pea Diseases

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• OrganicApply a labeled copper if needed· every 10 days · ~4 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Where blight appears early, a labeled copper applied per the label about every ten days can slow spread, but copper alone won't fully control it.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Clemson HGIC: Bean & Southern Pea Diseases; UMass Extension: Bacterial Diseases of Vegetable Crops

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Symptoms: light-and-dark green mosaic mottling on leaves; puckered, downward-curled, narrowed leaves; stunted plants; reduced pod set and malformed pods

• CulturalPlant certified resistant seed●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant certified virus-free seed of resistant varieties, the most effective control, since the virus is highly seed-transmitted and there is no cure for infected plants.

  Source: USU Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalRogue infected plants●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Remove and destroy symptomatic plants promptly to reduce a source for aphid spread; note that spraying aphids rarely prevents this virus.

  Source: UC IPM; WSU Hortsense

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Symptoms: small rusty-brown raised pustules on leaf undersides; yellow halos around spots; leaves yellow and drop; worse in warm humid weather late season

• CulturalKeep foliage dry and clean up debris●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water at the base rather than overhead and avoid handling wet plants; remove and discard infected debris after harvest and rotate beans away from the same spot for a couple of years.

  Source: Clemson HGIC: Bean & Southern Pea Diseases; UMass Extension: Bean Rust

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• OrganicApply a labeled fungicide if severe· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If rust is spreading early in the crop, apply a labeled fungicide per the label on a regular schedule, covering leaf undersides where pustules form.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Clemson HGIC: Bean & Southern Pea Diseases

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Symptoms: swarms of elongated soft-bodied beetles; rapid defoliation of leaves and flowers; gray, black, or striped beetles clustered on plants; skeletonized foliage on tomatoes and beans

• CulturalHand-pick wearing gloves· every 2 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Wear gloves (these beetles release a blistering fluid) and knock beetles into soapy water, or use row cover ahead of swarms; their larvae eat grasshopper eggs, so tolerate light feeding when you can.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• OrganicSpot-treat heavy swarms· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If a large swarm threatens a planting, a pyrethrin or other labeled insecticide can knock them back per the label; avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden

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Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

• CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossoms●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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• CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetness●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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Symptoms: cupped, curled, or strap-like distorted new leaves; twisted stems and petioles; parallel veins on narrowed young leaves; stunting and delayed fruiting; symptoms appearing on new growth days after a nearby spray

• CulturalIdentify the source and protect future plantings●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Growth-regulator herbicides like 2,4-D and dicamba cause this distortion via drift or contaminated sprayers and mulch; identify and stop the source, and never use a sprayer that previously held herbicide on the garden.

  Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

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• CulturalSupport recovery if exposure was light●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Plants only lightly exposed (not directly sprayed) often outgrow the damage; keep them watered and lightly fed so they can push out normal new growth, though fruiting may be delayed.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: yellowing between veins of youngest leaves while veins stay green; new growth pale or nearly white; bleaching and browning of leaf tips in severe cases; symptoms worst on alkaline high-pH soils; older leaves stay greener than new ones

• CulturalTest and address soil pH●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Iron is present but unavailable in high-pH soils, so test soil pH and, for the affected bed, lower pH toward the crop's preferred range (especially important for acid-loving blueberries) rather than just adding iron.

  Source: UMN Extension; UF/IFAS

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• OrganicUse chelated iron for a quick correction· every 2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  A foliar spray or soil drench of chelated iron can green up new growth per the label; soil-applied ferrous iron quickly oxidizes and becomes unavailable in high-pH soil, so chelate plus pH management works best.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UF/IFAS

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Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

• CulturalHandpick into soapy water· every 1 days · ~4 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In early morning when beetles are sluggish, knock them into a bucket of soapy water; daily removal also reduces the scent that draws in more beetles. Skip the lure traps, which tend to attract more beetles than they catch.

  Source: UMN Extension: Japanese beetles; PennState Extension: Japanese Beetles in the Home Garden

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• CulturalCover plants past bloom●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  On crops that have finished flowering and set fruit, drape a row cover or netting to keep beetles off without blocking pollination during bloom.

  Source: UMN Extension: Japanese beetles

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Symptoms: lacy skeletonized leaves; fuzzy yellow spiny larvae on undersides; coppery ladybug-like adults

• CulturalHand-pick adults, larvae, and egg masses· every 3 days · ~3 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Check undersides and crush the yellow egg clusters and spiny larvae; sustained hand-picking controls small plantings.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test first●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidance●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

• CulturalLet soil drain and water less●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water root rots like Pythium thrive in saturated soil, so cut back watering, let the surface dry between irrigations, and water at the base rather than keeping soil constantly wet.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• CulturalImprove drainage and aeration●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use raised beds, loosen compacted soil, and add organic matter to improve drainage; remove plants that are already rotted since affected roots won't recover.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

• CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: cloudy or corky spots on fruit; dimpled or pitted fruit; catfacing on tomatoes; shield-shaped brown or green bugs; barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides

• CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weeds●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM Pest Notes

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• CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 days●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: silvery or stippled flecking on leaves; black specks of frass; distorted or scarred young leaves and fruit; tiny slender insects in flowers; deformed fruit set

• CulturalRemove weed and crop reservoirs●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Control flowering weeds in and around the garden and remove spent host crops promptly, since thrips build up on these and move onto fruiting vegetables; avoid planting next to onions, garlic, or cereals where thrips numbers spike.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

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• CulturalKeep plants vigorous and rinse foliage●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Water and feed adequately so plants tolerate feeding, and a forceful water spray can knock down populations; reflective mulch can also deter thrips from settling on young plants.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicTreat with spinosad or oil if needed· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If thrips are damaging growing points or fruit, spinosad or insecticidal soap/oil can help per the label; rotate modes of action and avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators and natural enemies.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: patchy poor germination; seedlings die in stretches; tunneled holes in potatoes and root crops; hard shiny orange-brown worms in soil; thinning stands after sod or grass

• CulturalRotate away from grassy ground●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid planting susceptible crops right after sod, pasture, or grass cover, where wireworms build up; rotate to a less-favored crop and let infested beds dry out between plantings.

  Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms; UC IPM: Wireworms

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• CulturalBait-trap to monitor· every 5 days · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Bury pieces of carrot or potato or a handful of soaked wheat seed as bait when soil reaches about 50F, check after several days, and remove the worms you find to gauge and reduce pressure.

  Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms

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Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

• CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

  Source: UC IPM: Aphids

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: ragged irregular holes in leaves and seedlings; chewed flower petals; damage to soft fruit; pincered insects hiding in dark moist spots; feeding noticed mainly overnight

• CulturalTrap and remove· every 1 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Set rolled damp newspaper, low tuna-style cans of oil, or short tubes near plants at dusk, then dump trapped earwigs into soapy water each morning; reduce mulch and damp hiding spots near vulnerable seedlings.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicApply a bait only if damage persists· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Established plants usually tolerate earwigs, which also eat aphids; if seedlings are being destroyed, a spinosad-based bait labeled for earwigs can help per the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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