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Epazote

Dysphania ambrosioides
Also known as: Mexican Tea, Mexican Herb, Wormseed, Jesuit's Tea, Hierba Santa María, Pazote

Epazote is a herb in the Amaranthaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 2-13. Plants reach harvest about 34–46 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.

Varieties

1 from Seeds Now · sorted by days to maturity
  • Epazote34–46 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    Epazote (Dysphania ambrosioides) is a culinary herb with a lemony green color and serrated leaves, traditionally used to add a bold umami-type depth to Mexican cuisine. Its flavor has been described as a mix of mint and savory with a bit of camphor or turpentine thrown in. An acquired taste. As a companion plant, it attracts beneficial insects and masks the scent of other plants that suffer from pest damage. Also used medicinally to help with stomach upset and to combat intestinal parasites. Can become invasive, so best grown in a container. Easy to grow Culinary and medicinal uses Days to germinate (sprout): 5-7 days Quick maturity—only 40 days Good companion plants: Bean, Carrot, Pea, Squash, Tomato

    View on Seeds Now
Family
Amaranthaceae
Category
Herb
Form
Bush
Lifecycle
annual or perennial
Zone
2-13
Height
2–4 ft
Spread
1–2 ft
Sun
Full sun

Plant spacing

1 plant per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: one epazote fills a 1-foot square, spaced 12 inches from its neighbors.
1 plant per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space epazote about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium

Plan your epazote planting

Add epazote to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
34–46 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Keep picking
Crops over several weeks
Frost tolerance
Warm-season · to ~40°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Succession
Good for succession sowing

Storing & preserving

Refrigerate stems in water, or wrap in a damp towel for a few days.

  • Dry: Dehydrate or air-dry, then store airtight away from light.
  • Freeze: Freeze chopped in oil or water in ice-cube trays.

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest epazotePlanting timeline for epazote, relative to last frost: start indoors from 5 weeks before last frost to 1 week after last frost; grow from 1 week after last frost to 6 weeks after last frost; harvest from 6 weeks after last frost to 8 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowHarvestLast frostTransplant
Start epazote indoors ~6 weeks before transplanting 1 week after last frost; first harvest 6 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
28-42 days
Outdoor planting
7 to 14 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Pairs well with (2)

  • Common BeanEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter, flavor-folklore

    Epazote is a traditional Mesoamerican bean companion — grown with beans (and cooked with them) and reputed to deter some insect pests with its strong aromatic oils.

    Source: S7

  • CornEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Grown alongside the milpa's corn and beans and reputed to deter pests aromatically.

    Source: S7

Sources cited

S7
University of Minnesota Extension

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Plan crop rotation

Rotation
  • Routine careRotate plant families between bedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting the same family in the same bed in consecutive years (aim for a 3+ year gap), grouping crops by family so soilborne diseases and pests that build up don't carry over to the next susceptible crop.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careSequence for soil healthmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Follow heavy feeders like tomatoes and brassicas with legumes or a cover crop to support soil fertility and structure, and keep simple notes each year so you can track where each family grew.

    Source: UMN Extension

Protect the garden from rabbits and voles

Protection
  • Routine careFence out rabbitsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Surround beds with 1-inch mesh chicken wire at least 2 feet tall with the bottom buried or staked down a few inches so rabbits can't push under it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

  • Routine careReduce vole habitat and guard stemsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Keep grass and mulch pulled back from plant bases and crowns to remove vole cover, mow surrounding vegetation, and use hardware-cloth guards around vulnerable woody stems before winter.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

Thin beet-family seedlings

Thinning
  • Routine careThin clusters to one plant each· every 2 wks · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Beet/chard 'seeds' are clusters, so several sprout together. Thin to one strong seedling every 3-4 in; the thinnings are edible greens.

    Source: UMN Extension

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your epazoteand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Blister beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: swarms of elongated soft-bodied beetles; rapid defoliation of leaves and flowers; gray, black, or striped beetles clustered on plants; skeletonized foliage on tomatoes and beans

  • CulturalHand-pick wearing gloves· every 2 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wear gloves (these beetles release a blistering fluid) and knock beetles into soapy water, or use row cover ahead of swarms; their larvae eat grasshopper eggs, so tolerate light feeding when you can.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicSpot-treat heavy swarms· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If a large swarm threatens a planting, a pyrethrin or other labeled insecticide can knock them back per the label; avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Missouri Botanical Garden

Cercospora leaf spot on beet and chard

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: small round spots with tan-to-gray centers and reddish-purple borders; spots coalescing and turning gray; heavy spotting on outer leaves; foliage browning and dying back in warm humid weather

  • CulturalRotate, space out, and water at the basestrong evidence — extension confidence

    The fungus survives on debris and spreads by splashing water, so rotate beds, space plants for airflow, and water at the soil rather than overhead. Remove and discard heavily spotted outer leaves and clear crop residue after harvest.

    Source: UMass Extension; UMN Extension

  • OrganicApply a copper fungicide if spreading· every 10 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If spotting is severe and weather stays warm and humid, apply a labeled copper fungicide preventively per the label, before the disease takes over the planting.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMass Extension

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Potassium deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test firststrong evidence — extension confidence

    Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidancemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Slugs & snails

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

  • CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

    Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

  • OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Wireworms

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: patchy poor germination; seedlings die in stretches; tunneled holes in potatoes and root crops; hard shiny orange-brown worms in soil; thinning stands after sod or grass

  • CulturalRotate away from grassy groundstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting susceptible crops right after sod, pasture, or grass cover, where wireworms build up; rotate to a less-favored crop and let infested beds dry out between plantings.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms; UC IPM: Wireworms

  • CulturalBait-trap to monitor· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Bury pieces of carrot or potato or a handful of soaked wheat seed as bait when soil reaches about 50F, check after several days, and remove the worms you find to gauge and reduce pressure.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Bolting (premature flowering)

Disorderlow

Symptoms: plant sends up a tall central flower stalk; leaves turn bitter; growth turns leggy; happens during heat and long days in lettuce, spinach, and brassicas

Leaf miners

Pestlow

Symptoms: winding pale tunnels inside the leaf; pale blotches between the upper and lower leaf surfaces; tunnels/blotches that can't be rubbed off because the larva is inside

  • CulturalPick mined leaves + row cover· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Remove and bag leaves with tunnels, and cover plants with insect netting to block the egg-laying flies. Damage is mostly cosmetic on leafy crops.

    Source: UMN Extension