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Sweet Potato

Ipomoea batatas
Also known as: Batata

Sweet Potato is a vegetable in the Convolvulaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 9-11. Plants reach harvest about 90–120 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.

Varieties

1 · sorted by days to maturity
  • Sweet Potato90–120 days

    PROPAGATION CATEGORY: Tuber (not currently in seed catalog). Use: Edible storage root; tender vining greens also edible. Harvest: Lift tubers before first fall frost.

    Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas) is a warm-season vine grown for its sweet, starchy storage roots; the leaves are also edible. Started from rooted 'slips' rather than seed, and needs a long, warm growing season. Perennial in zones 9-11, grown as an annual elsewhere.

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Ipomoea batatas|Hardiness zones: 9-11|Propagation: slips (vine cuttings)|Sun needs: Full sun|Water needs: Medium|Mature height: 6-12 inches (vines to 10 ft)|Spacing: 12 inches|Harvest: Lift tubers before first fall frost

Family
Convolvulaceae
Category
Vegetable
Form
Tuber
Lifecycle
annual
Zone
9-11
Height
0.5–1 ft
Spread
3–4 ft
Sun
Full sun

Plant spacing

1 plant per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: one sweet potato fills a 1-foot square, spaced 12 inches from its neighbors.
1 plant per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space sweet potato about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium

Plan your sweet potato planting

Add sweet potato to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
90–120 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Frost tolerance
Warm-season · to ~50°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives

Storing & preserving

Cure briefly, then store cool, dark, and humid — keeps for months.

  • Cold store: Keep dark to prevent greening; don't refrigerate raw.

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

Propagation
Cutting
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Avoid planting near (8)

  • Aji PepperEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismalternate-host-pest

    Shared root-knot nematode host status is documented for pepper as well as tomato and potato.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • Chiltepin PepperEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Southern root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) damages sweetpotato, tomato, pepper and potato alike, and soil inoculum builds whichever crop is planted first, so the hazard is mutual.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • Ground CherryEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Southern root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) damages sweetpotato, tomato, pepper and potato alike, and soil inoculum builds whichever crop is planted first, so the hazard is mutual.

    Timing: Maintain ≥2-year rotation between sweet potato and Solanaceae.

    Region: Southeast, especially sandy nematode-prone soils.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • Pepper (Habanero)Evidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Southern root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) damages sweetpotato, tomato, pepper and potato alike, and soil inoculum builds whichever crop is planted first, so the hazard is mutual.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • Pepper (Hot)Evidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Southern root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) damages sweetpotato, tomato, pepper and potato alike, and soil inoculum builds whichever crop is planted first, so the hazard is mutual.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • Pepper (Sweet & Hot)Evidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Southern root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) damages sweetpotato, tomato, pepper and potato alike, and soil inoculum builds whichever crop is planted first, so the hazard is mutual.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • TomatilloEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Southern root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) damages sweetpotato, tomato, pepper and potato alike, and soil inoculum builds whichever crop is planted first, so the hazard is mutual.

    Timing: Maintain ≥2-year rotation between sweet potato and Solanaceae.

    Region: Southeast, especially sandy nematode-prone soils.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • TomatoEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Southern root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) damages sweetpotato, tomato, pepper and potato alike, and soil inoculum builds whichever crop is planted first, so the hazard is mutual.

    Timing: Maintain ≥2-year rotation between sweet potato and Solanaceae.

    Region: Southeast, especially sandy nematode-prone soils.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

Sources cited

S11
University of Georgia Cooperative Extension
S12
NC State Extension

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your sweet potatoand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Leaf miners

Pestlow

Symptoms: winding pale tunnels inside the leaf; pale blotches between the upper and lower leaf surfaces; tunnels/blotches that can't be rubbed off because the larva is inside

  • CulturalPick mined leaves + row cover· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Remove and bag leaves with tunnels, and cover plants with insect netting to block the egg-laying flies. Damage is mostly cosmetic on leafy crops.

    Source: UMN Extension