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Potato

Solanum tuberosum
Also known as: Spud, Tatie, Irish Potato, White Potato

Potato is a vegetable in the Solanaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 2-13. Plants reach harvest about 60–135 days after planting and sit about 6 inches apart.

Varieties

50 from Seeds Now & High Mowing · sorted by days to maturity
  • Albertine60–80 days

    Quick Overview • Early-season 60-80 to maturity. • Disease resistant to common scab, black leg, Rhizoctonia, and tuber blight, the trifecta plus one. • Yellow skin, yellow flesh with smooth skin and shallow eyes. • Excellent disease resistance. Details New Variety! Disease resistant to common scab, black leg, Rhizoctonia, and tuber blight, the trifecta plus one. Excellent for the the beginning home gardener. Yellow skin, yellow flesh with smooth skin and shallow eyes. Large oval tubers with medium set. It is well worth sacraficing a few potatoes for such excellent disease resistance. Medium storage. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Cal White60–80 days

    Quick Overview • Early-season 60-80 to maturity. • Heavy yields Details Cal White is a long white fleshed potato with brilliant white skin. It produces heavy yields of large potatoes. In fact Cal White surprised many people by setting new records for potato yields in California tests. If you like white bakers this one is the one. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Caribe60–80 days

    DETAILS Early-season 60-80 to maturity. A large, uniform tuber with snow white flesh and lavender skin. Good boiled, steamed or mashed. It should be eaten first as it does not last in storage. Resistant to heat, drought, scab and storage rot. Producing excellent yields, it can be grown almost anywhere. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Cheshire60–80 days

    Details Early-season 60-80 to maturity. A high yielding, early season tuber. Dark red skinned with yellow around the eyes and deep yellow flesh. This potato is delicious roasted, steamed or baked. Eat this tasty tuber first as it does not have the longest shelf life. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Elfie60–80 days

    DETAILS Early-season 60-80 to maturity. Early season oval shaped tubers with bright yellow skin and medium yellow flesh. Smooth shallow eyes and nice uniform tubers. Great for roasting, steaming, baking or boiling. Excellent for storage. Drought tolerant and resistant to common scab, blight & black leg. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Jester60–80 days

    Details Early-season 60-80 to maturity. Purple skin with yellow around the eyes and variegated purple and yellow flesh. Produces small round tubers that are perfect for the home gardener. Good for salads or roasting. Sensitive to common scab. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • King Edward60–80 days

    King Edward is a classic British maincrop potato introduced in 1902 and one of the oldest varieties still widely grown. It produces oval tubers with creamy-white, lightly floury (fluffy) flesh and pale skin splashed with pink around the eyes. Prized as an all-rounder, it is especially good for roasting, baking, and mashing, and stores well through winter. NOTE: We do not treat our seed potatoes with sprout inhibitors, so tubers may have begun to sprout on arrival, which is normal and acceptable for planting.

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  • Malou60–80 days

    DETAILS Early-season 60-80 to maturity. This early season potato produces high yields of uniform, round tubers with bright yellow skin and yellow flesh. Has a delicious creamy texture when roasted, baked, fried or boiled. Resistance to PVY, black leg, tuber blight and rhizoctonia. A great storage potato. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Violetta60–80 days

    Quick Overview • Disease resistant to common scab • Purple skin with purple flesh • Early to harvest Details New Variety! Disease resistant to common scab. Purple skin with purple flesh , 40 days earlier than purple peruvian with smooth skin and shallow eyes. The medium set is over shadowed by its earliness. Medium storage dormancy. Grows best on low nitrogent fields. Purple peruvian say good-bye! NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Dark Red Norland65–90 days

    Widely adapted

    Resistance: HR: Scab

    Outstanding red potato offers both great flavor and heavy yields, perfect for new potatoes. Medium-large oblong, tubers with moist, firm, white flesh. Great for boiling and roasting. Developed for Northern growers and short seasons, but widely adapted to a range of conditions. Excellent resistance to scab and some field resistance to hollow heart and early blight noted. Developed by the North Dakota Agricultural College and released in 1957.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Purple Viking65–90 days

    Compact habit; For fresh market

    Resistance: HR: Scab

    Outstanding yields of spectacular, deep purple potatoes with rich flavor— a winner in our taste tests. Bright white flesh is moist and firm, adaptable for many types of cooking. Vibrant purple skins are flecked with pink for an eye-catching, early market offering. Compact plants with big tubers; space closely to control size.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Noelle70–90 days

    About this variety: Disease resistant to common scab and PVY. Early maturing for a fingerling. Yellow fleshed with a yellow smooth skin and shallow eyes. These minis are oval to long oval in shape. High tuber set with long storage to extend the selling season. Banana has met its match. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Potato Fingerling - Red Thumb70–90 days

    About this variety: One of the best tasting of the fingerling potato varieties. It has rosy-buff skin with deep yellow flesh (blushed with red). Excellent for potato salad. Produces lots of medium-sized, well-clustered potatoes. Very good roasted over the coals. The tubers are long-keeping and the vines are very vigorous. Be careful not too overcrowd this variety. We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Zoe70–90 days

    Quick Overview • Large long oval tuber • Early maturing • Red skin and red flesh Details New Variety! Disease resistant to PVY, common scab, and tuber late blight. Smooth red skin with very shallow eyes and red flesh. Large long oval tuber with high tuber set. Early maturing with short storage dormancy. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Agata80–90 days

    DETAILS Mid-season 80-90 days to maturity. Beautiful yellow skin and yellow flesh with a creamy texture when cooked. Exceptionally high yields of oval tubers. Early to mid-season maturity and moderate storage. Try this tasty tuber roasted, baked or boiled. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • All Blue80–90 days

    Details Mid-season 80-90 days to maturity. This beautiful, medium-sized, extra-late potato has deep blue skin as well as consistently blue flesh. This high yielding plant has beautiful blue flowers. The rich taste of these potatoes when mashed is enhanced by the color. To keep color, do not overcook. Once blue potatoes were grown on potato trial grounds between other varieties to demarcate the division between varieties (called purple marker). NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • All Red80–90 days

    DETAILS Mid-season 80-90 days to maturity. These medium to extra-large tubers have smooth, brilliant red skin with medium shallow eyes. Pink swirled flesh that retains its color after cooking. Like most reds, this variety is good for steaming or boiling. Makes an attractive and unique potato salad. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Chieftain80–90 days

    DETAIL Mid-season 80-90 days to maturity. A smooth red-skinned slightly oval tuber with shallow eyes and white flesh. Medium size and very good flavor. This variety is resistant to scab and late blight and does better in clay soils than most other reds. High overall yields from a spreading plant with attractive light-violet blossoms. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Ciklamen80–90 days

    DETAIL A mid to late season tuber. Produces uniform, oval shaped tubers with red skin and creamy white flesh. High yielding. Good storage. Resistant to PVY, blackleg and common scab. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Red La Soda80–100 days

    DETAIL This potato with smooth red skin, deep eyes and white flesh is excellent for boiling and making potato salads. Possibly the best storing red; it keeps well into June. It tolerates high temperatures but is susceptible to disease. Excellent harvests. This variety was developed especially for Southern growers, but can be good in the North and South for first-early market potatoes. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Red Pontiac80–100 days

    • Mid Season • Heirloom • Heat tolerant • Good for mashing #1 red every year! This large round potato has thin, dark-red skin, deep eyes, and crisp white flesh. Excellent for mashed potatoes and boiling but not for baking. Heat-tolerant, long-storing and high-yielding, it will grow in heavy soil. Well suited for growing in wire cages. One precaution about this variety: the skin is so thin it should be allowed to cure and firm up for a week or two in the ground after the vines die back. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Russet Norkotah80–110 days

    Quick Overview • Similar to Russet Burbank • Smooth, red-brown skin, shallow eyes and white flesh • Scab-resistant Details New Variety! This tuber with smooth, red-brown skin, shallow eyes and white flesh, out-produces most commercial fresh market russets as far as the percentage of #1 uniform potatoes. It is excellent for baking, frying or boiling and keeps well. It is scab-resistant and provides dependable yields. This is another great variety from Dr. Robert Johansen, talented breeder of the wonderful Anoka. It is a good choice for a gardener with limited space. Similar to Russet Burbank. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Purple Majesty85–100 days

    Quick Overview • Mid Season • Deep purple Details Oblong, mid season potato with smooth dark purple skin. Almost solid purple inside unlike All Blue. very good table quality. Makes a great blue potato salad. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Yellow Finn85–120 days

    About this variety: This potato has an unusual pear shape (large flattened oval), deep yellow-tan skin and waxy yellow flesh. The taste is natural butter-like, and is good boiled, baked, fried or included in soups. This excellent keeper needs the lush, long season of the maritime Northwest to really perform. With even moisture, it will continue to yield until frost kills. This potato is the #1 yellow, our best-selling late season variety. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Adirondack Blue90–110 days

    High yields; Gourmet variety

    A staple of the specialty culinary market with beautiful purple coloring throughout. Our farm trials found that Adirondack Blue performed better all-around and is a more refined, full-color variety. Dark purple skin with purple flesh that holds its coloring through cooking. Good for steaming or au gratin. Pair with Adirondack Red and Elba for a genuine red, white and blue potato salad.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Adirondack Red90–110 days

    Resists hollow heart; Uniform shape; Stores well

    Resistance: IR: Late Blight; Scab

    Shimmering, ruby-red tubers with clean skins, red flesh and excellent yields. This variety has comparable storage quality to Red Chieftain with specialty appeal from its beautiful, red flesh. Produces tubers that are uniform in shape and size. Excellent for roasting and salads, the flattened, oblong potatoes are waxy and moist and turn a light shade of pink when boiled. These easy to grow, gorgeous potatoes are striking on a market table for fresh sales or as a great addition to the home garden.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • AmaRosa90–110 days

    Gourmet variety; Moderate storage

    Resistance: HR: Scab

    Gorgeous burgundy skin reveals intensely dark red flesh, rich in antioxidants. High yielding with smooth, wine-colored skin and sweet, creamy red flesh that resists fading during cooking. Superb culinary quality—delicious fried, baked, boiled, steamed or as mouthwatering pink chips. If harvested new, handle gently to prevent skinning.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • French Fingerling90–110 days

    Gourmet variety; Strong yields

    Resistance: HR: Scab

    Unique aesthetic with an outstanding flavor profile for culinary enthusiasts. This fingerling has it all: excellent quality, strong yields and a color combination like you've never seen before. Smooth red skin and yellow flesh that is dappled with red. This specialty variety is great boiled, roasted or in soups.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Huckleberry Gold90–110 days

    Striking colors

    Resistance: IR: Scab; Verticillium Wilt

    Strikingly beautiful, purple-skinned potatoes with deep, yellow flesh. Round to oval tubers that are high in antioxidants and have a low glycemic index. Good resistance to tuber malformations and less susceptible to hollow heart than Yukon Gold. Excellent for fresh market with good storage quality.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Kennebec90–100 days

    Quick Overview • Mid-season 80-90 days to maturity. • Produces dependable heavy yields of large potatoes in most soils. • Smooth pale yellow skin, shallow eyes and white flesh. • Resistant to blight, mosaic, late blight and net necrosis. Details New Variety! A short oval potato with smooth pale yellow skin, shallow eyes and white flesh. Can be used for fries, hash browns and many other uses even without peeling. Kennebec, one of the best keepers, is resistant to blight, mosaic, late blight and net necrosis. Produces dependable heavy yields of large potatoes in most soils. A great plant for the North as it sunburns easily. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Montana90–110 days

    Quick Overview • High setting mid season potato with excellent storage • Yellow skin and flesh, oval in shape with shallow eyes • Disease resistant to common scab and PVY Details New Variety! Disease resistant to common scab and PVY. Montana can be as large as its namesake. Yellow skin and flesh, oval in shape with shallow eyes. High setting mid season potato with excellent storage. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Peruvian Sunrise Gold90–110 days

    Mid-season heirloom potato of South American origin. Produces large, oval tubers with red and white skin, deep white eyes, and white flesh. Stores extremely well and is a heavy, reliable producer.

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  • Peter Wilcox90–110 days

    Strong canopy; Beautiful texture; Stores well

    Resistance: HR: Golden Nematodes; Powdery Scab

    Abundant yields of round to oblong, purple potatoes with vibrant, golden flesh. The bright purple exterior of these earthy-flavored potatoes has striking visual appeal. Whether roasted, boiled, sliced or fried, the firm flesh makes it a versatile potato for the dinner plate. The specialty appeal of these potatoes makes them a desirable fresh-to-market variety, great for chefs, and a fun and exciting project in the garden. Plants are large and prolific offering great yields.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Potato Fingerling - Terra Rosa90–110 days

    A beautiful new variety which is smooth and shallow eyed. Magenta skin with matching flesh. Potatoes are ideal for frying, baking or mashing. Oblong tubers can reach 10 ounces in size. We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Potato Fingerling - Vermillion90–110 days

    Details Long, oval tuber with red skin and flesh. Suitable for a wide range of cooking with a creamy texture and beautiful unique color. Resistant to virus, splitting and powdery scab. Moderate storage. We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Ramona90–110 days

    Early-maturing potato producing large, oval tubers with red skin and yellow flesh. Smooth, shallow-eyed skin with a medium tuber set and good disease resistance to common scab, PVY, and tuber blight. Bakes well and has average storage dormancy.

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  • Red Chieftain90–110 days

    Tolerates clay soil; Stores well

    Resistance: HR: Scab

    Large, oblong red tubers with great flavor and storage potential. Very attractive presentation with thin, coppery skin and shallow eyes. Delicious boiled and as a new potato with firm, moist flesh. Higher yielding in heavy clay soils than other reds and offers field resistance to late blight.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Satina90–110 days

    Smooth, buttery texture; Stores well

    Resistance: HR: Late Blight; Scab · IR: Potato Virus

    Oval round tubers with smooth as satin texture and yellow flesh and skin. Excellent resistances lead to prolific plants and high yields with few culls. Tubers are so smooth that they almost appear polished. An incredible eating potato, the fine texture of both flesh and skin makes them well suited to being mashed, roasted or prepared in a potato salad. Excellent storage and good field resistance to tarnished plant bugs and leafhoppers.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Yukon Gold90–110 days

    Excellent flavor; Long storage

    Versatile yellow-fleshed potato. One of our bestsellers and a widely acclaimed star of European golden-fleshed potatoes. Renowned for its dense, buttery texture ideal for baking, boiling, soups and frying. Developed in the 1960s by a breeding team at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Russet Pioneer95–110 days

    Quick Overview • Mid Season • Medium Yield Details Mid Season. Blocky russet type. Long oval even tubers. Best ways to cook, roasting, frying, & baking. High yielder. Medium-long storage. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Austrian Crescent100–120 days

    About this variety: So delicious it sells out fast, so order early! Smooth, yellow-tan skin and light yellow flesh. Prolific yields run as long 10", some weigh as much as 7 oz. Excellent salad qualities, firm and waxy, or simply boiled or steamed. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Defender100–120 days

    DETAILS Late-season 100-120 days to maturity. First late blight resistant russet to be released. This late season potato is high yielding, lightly russeted, suitable for frying and is excellent as a fresh market baker. Oblong with white flesh. Stores well. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Jelly100–120 days

    Quick Overview • Late-season: 100-120 days to maturity • Exclusive variety • High Yields • Buttery taste and flavor Details Smooth yellow skin with yellow flesh. Oval shaped tubers and shallow eye depth. High yielding and an excellent long term storage potato. This tuber has wonderful texture and a tasty, buttery flavor which is great any way you cook it! Resistant to common scab, PVY and rhizoctonia. NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Purple Peruvian100–120 days

    About this variety: Purple Peruvian is the BEST purple fingerling. Late-season 100-120 days to maturity. The medium- to large-sized tubers need really rich soil and lots of water to prosper. This is a very popular variety at the farmers market! NOTE: We do not use chemicals to prevent our potatoes from sprouting. So the seed potatoes you order may have already begun to sprout when they arrive. This is okay-in fact some consider it desirable.

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  • Yukon Gem100–120 days

    Stores well

    Resistance: HR: Scab · IR: Late Blight

    Bright gold skin, pink-hued eyes, yellow flesh and the same delicious flavor as its parent, Yukon Gold. Round to oval tubers mature about 10 days later than Yukon Gold and are significantly higher yielding, especially in wet conditions. Smooth tan skin and dense, buttery yellow flesh for baking, boiling and frying. Originally developed in 1994 by a team at North Dakota State University.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

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  • Burbank Russet110–135 days

    Idaho-type; Stores well

    Resistance: HR: Scab

    The most widely grown potato in the U.S.; heavily russeted tubers with flaky white flesh. Flaky texture perfect for light and fluffy baked potatoes, crispy French fries and amazing hash browns. Shows some field resistance to blackleg, fusarium and blight. One of over 800 varieties created by American plant breeder Luther Burbank, who developed the original Burbank potato in 1875 at the age of 26, to combat the potato famine in Ireland.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

    View on High Mowing
  • Elba110–135 days

    Drought tolerant; Large plants; Stores well

    Resistance: HR: Early Blight; Late Blight; Scab

    High yields of large potatoes with buff skin and delicious, white flesh. One of the most blight-resistant potatoes available with added scab resistance for excellent performance in wet or dry years. Firm, slightly waxy texture suitable for roasting, boiling, baking and salads. According to Sales Manager Paul Betz, Elba is “incredible mashed, standing up in amazing fluffy white peaks with delicious flavor.” Excellent storage. Prone to hollow heart in wet climates. Savannah, owner of Flynn Farms, harvesting Huckleberry Gold potatoes in Everson, Washington. Burbank Russet Elba

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

    View on High Mowing
  • German Butterball110–135 days

    Large plants; Stores well

    Unrivaled in creamy, buttery flavor and superb dense texture. Very popular, versatile variety that is excellent boiled, roasted or fried. Pale yellow skin and golden flesh. "Great midsized potatoes, a little waxier than dry, amazing roasted, a good boiler. One of my favorites," says Sales Manager Paul Betz of High Mowing. Shows some field resistance to scab and late blight.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

    View on High Mowing
  • Magic Molly110–135 days

    Vigorous plants; Waxy texture; Stores well

    Resistance: IR: Late Blight

    All-purple fingerling potato with excellent flavor and magical appeal. The dark purple, almost-black color of the skin and flesh are retained when boiled, roasted, or baked. Can be harvested early as new potatoes. Excellent yields with some field resistance to late blight. The long, beautiful tubers are firm with slightly waxy flesh. Striking appearance stands out on a market table and is desirable to adventurous chefs. Bred by Bill Cambell of the Plant Materials Center in Palmer, Alaska.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

    View on High Mowing
  • Russian Banana110–135 days

    Gourmet variety; Stores well

    Resistance: HR: Scab

    A classic fingerling potato bearing small, crescent-shaped yellow tubers with tapered ends. The fine-grained yellow flesh is buttery, moist, and tender, excellent for boiling, roasting, and baking. An heirloom first grown by early Russian immigrants in the United States.

    Growing notes: A hardy, cool-season crop. Classified by early (65-80 days), mid (80-90 days) and late (90+ days) season varieties, referring to days to maturity. Can be planted 1-2 weeks before the last frost date in spring. Small potatoes (1-1.5” diameter) can be planted whole; larger potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece of the tuber should have at least one eye (dormant bud). Hill plants shortly after emergence and again three weeks later, making sure to cover all exposed tubers to avoid greening. Harvest 2 weeks after plants have died back. Cure in a dry, dark place. Store potatoes in a dark, moist area at 38-40ºF.

    View on High Mowing
Family
Solanaceae
Category
Vegetable
Form
Tuber
Lifecycle
annual or perennial
Zone
2-13
Height
1–1.5 ft
Spread
1–1.5 ft
Sun
Full sun

Plant spacing

4 plants per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: a 1-foot square divided into a 2-by-2 grid holding 4 potato plants spaced 6 inches apart.
4 plants per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space potato about 6 in apart — that fits 4 plants in each 1-foot square (2×2). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium

Plan your potato planting

Add potato to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
60–135 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Harvest once
One main harvest
After harvest
Stores well
Holds (or improves) after peak
Frost tolerance
Semi-hardy · to ~28°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives

Storing & preserving

Stores well in the right conditions. Cure briefly, then store cool, dark, and humid — keeps for months.

  • Cold store: Keep dark to prevent greening; don't refrigerate raw.

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest potatoPlanting timeline for potato, relative to last frost: grow from 4 weeks before last frost to 5 weeks after last frost; harvest from 5 weeks after last frost to 15 weeks after last frost.GrowHarvestLast frostDirect sow
Direct-sow potato 4 weeks before last frost; first harvest 5 weeks after last frost.
Outdoor planting
-28 to -14 days vs frost
Propagation
Tuber
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Pairs well with (5)

  • Common BeanEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsn-fixation, pest-deter

    Bush bean interplanted with potato is a long-standing recommendation in Cornell, Penn State, and UMass extension. Bean contributes residual N from nodule turnover and several trials have reported reduced Colorado potato beetle pressure in potato-bean polycultures, attributed to visual and olfactory disruption of host-finding.

    Source: S1, Penn State Extension, UMass Center for Agriculture

  • French MarigoldEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter

    Tagetes patula suppresses Meloidogyne nematode populations; potato is moderately susceptible to root-knot nematode in warmer regions.

    Timing: Solid marigold the prior season is more effective than concurrent interplanting.

    Region: Most valuable in zones 7+ and sandy soils.

    Source: UC IPM

  • HuacatayEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter, allelopathy-positive

    Tagetes minuta produces strong root exudates that suppress soil nematodes and several couch-grass perennial weeds; used as a soil-cleansing rotation in Andean systems and cited in USDA-ARS reports. Less commonly used in North America than T. patula.

    Source: USDA ARS

  • CatnipEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Nepetalactone has shown deterrence of Colorado potato beetle in choice tests; field replication is limited.

    Source: S8

  • HorseradishEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Planting horseradish at potato bed corners is a traditional recommendation in Penn State and Cornell home-garden guides for suppressing Colorado potato beetle. Mechanism (isothiocyanate volatiles) is plausible, field-trial evidence is limited but consistent enough to retain as C tier.

    Source: S1, Penn State Extension

Avoid planting near (12)

  • Black WalnutEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismallelopathy-negative

    Potato shows the same juglone sensitivity as tomato: severe wilting and yield loss within the affected zone. Documented repeatedly.

    Source: S5, Penn State Extension, S8

  • Common TomatoEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Potato and tomato share late blight (Phytophthora infestans), early blight, Verticillium, and Colorado potato beetle. UMN Extension and Cornell explicitly recommend a 3-4 year rotation interval between any two Solanaceae crops in the same bed and physical separation of tomato and potato within the same garden.

    Timing: Maintain ≥3-4 year rotation between Solanaceae crops; keep potato and tomato beds far apart within a garden.

    Source: Penn State Extension, S7

  • StrawberryEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismdisease-host

    Strawberry is highly susceptible to Verticillium dahliae, which persists for years on Solanaceae (potato, tomato, eggplant, pepper). UC IPM, Cornell, and OSU all advise against planting strawberry in fields where these crops have grown in the previous 3-5 years.

    Source: S1, UC IPM, S4

  • Cape GooseberryEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Shares CPB and Verticillium pressure with potato; do not co-bed or rotate immediately after potato.

    Source: Penn State Extension

  • Common EggplantEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Shared Solanaceae complex (Colorado potato beetle, Verticillium).

    Source: S7

  • English WalnutEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsallelopathy-negative

    Same juglone sensitivity as tomato.

    Source: UC IPM, S5

  • TomatilloEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Tomatillo is an alternate host for Colorado potato beetle and shares Verticillium wilt susceptibility. Do not co-plant or follow potato directly.

    Source: Penn State Extension

  • Common CucumberEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationdisease-host

    Both share Verticillium wilt susceptibility; extension rotation guidance groups Solanaceae and Cucurbitaceae in separate rotation blocks.

    Source: S1

  • CornEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationnutrient-competition

    Both are heavy feeders requiring similar fertility and water; extension home-garden guides advise separating them to avoid competition and to simplify rotation. Mechanism is competition rather than chemical antagonism.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Crookneck PumpkinEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationdisease-host

    Shared Fusarium/Verticillium soilborne wilt complex; extension rotation guidance separates cucurbits and Solanaceae.

    Source: S1

  • Summer SquashEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationdisease-host

    Shared Verticillium/Fusarium soilborne disease complex.

    Source: S1

  • WatermelonEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationdisease-host

    Both crops are susceptible to Fusarium and Verticillium soilborne wilt complexes. Extension rotation guidance groups cucurbits and Solanaceae into separate rotation blocks to limit shared soilborne disease build-up.

    Source: S1

Biofumigant cover crops (1)

  • Cover MustardEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismbiofumigation

    Brown mustard (Brassica juncea) cv. 'Caliente' and white mustard (Sinapis alba) cv. 'Ida Gold' contain high glucosinolates (sinigrin, glucotropaeolin) that hydrolyze to allyl-isothiocyanate when residues are macerated and incorporated. Documented suppression of Verticillium dahliae, Rhizoctonia solani, and root-lesion nematode (Pratylenchus penetrans) in potato. Replicated trials in WA, ID, ME, ON.

    Timing: Flail-mow at full bloom, immediately incorporate, and seal with rolling or irrigation within 30 minutes to trap volatile ITCs. Wait 2-3 weeks before planting potato.

    Region: Best documented in PNW and Maine potato systems; some efficacy in ON.

    Source: S4, S19, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada

Good successors in rotation (4)

  • Mustard GreensEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsbiofumigation

    Brown mustard (B. juncea) cover crops incorporated at flowering release allyl-ITC that suppresses Verticillium dahliae, common scab, and root-lesion nematode in subsequent potato.

    Source: SARE, S29

  • Sorghum-SudangrassEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsallelopathy-positive, soil-conditioning

    Sorghum-sudangrass ahead of potato can reduce root-lesion nematode (Pratylenchus penetrans) populations and improve soil structure. Documented in Cornell, Penn State, and Maine potato trials.

    Timing: Terminate in fall, plant potato the following spring.

    Region: Northeast potato systems best documented.

    Source: S1, Penn State Extension, S29

  • White MustardEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsbiofumigation

    White mustard (Sinapis alba) is the most widely used biofumigant cover before potato in US/Canada production; sinalbin-derived p-hydroxybenzyl-ITC suppresses Verticillium dahliae and root-lesion nematode (Pratylenchus penetrans). See cover-crop entry for full discussion.

    Timing: Incorporate at early flowering; wait 2-3 weeks before planting.

    Source: SARE, S29, Midwest Cover Crops Council

  • FlaxEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationsoil-conditioning, weed-suppression

    Flax is sometimes used as a rotation break between potato crops in Prairie Canada; non-host for most Solanaceae pests and adds diversity. AAFC documents in rotation guides for the Prairies.

    Region: Prairie Canada and Northern Plains.

    Source: S22, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada

Sources cited

S1
Cornell University Cooperative Extension — vegetable production guides
S15
UMass Center for Agriculture (UMass Extension)
S18
SARE (Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education)
S19
USDA NRCS Plants Database / NRCS Plant Guides
S20
USDA ARS (Agricultural Research Service) publications
S22
University of Saskatchewan / Saskatchewan Ministry of Agriculture
S25
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
S29
Cornell Soil Health Lab / Northeast Cover Crop Council (NECCC)
S3
UC IPM (University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources)
S30
Midwest Cover Crops Council (MCCC)
S4
Oregon State University Extension Service
S5
Michigan State University Extension
S6
Penn State Extension
S7
University of Minnesota Extension
S8
Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
S9
University of Maryland Extension — Home & Garden Info Center

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators

Protection
  • Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.

    Source: UC IPM

Hill up potatoes

Mulch
  • Routine careMound soil/straw over stems every 2-3 weeks· every 18 days · ~9 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Draw soil or straw up around the stems as they grow to cover developing tubers - exposed tubers turn green and toxic. Repeat until plants flower.

    Source: UMN Extension: Growing Potatoes

Hollow Heart (Potato)

Disorder
  • CulturalKeep growth steady with even moisturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Maintain consistent soil moisture during tuber development, since rapid growth after a stress (drought then heavy water, or a cold check) causes the central cavity. This is an abiotic disorder, not an infection.

    Source: MSU Extension; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalBalance fertility and spacingmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid excess nitrogen, keep potassium adequate, and avoid overly wide spacing, since very rapid tuber bulking promotes hollow heart.

    Source: MSU Extension

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Plan crop rotation

Rotation
  • Routine careRotate plant families between bedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting the same family in the same bed in consecutive years (aim for a 3+ year gap), grouping crops by family so soilborne diseases and pests that build up don't carry over to the next susceptible crop.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careSequence for soil healthmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Follow heavy feeders like tomatoes and brassicas with legumes or a cover crop to support soil fertility and structure, and keep simple notes each year so you can track where each family grew.

    Source: UMN Extension

Protect the garden from deer

Protection
  • Routine careFence the gardenstrong evidence — extension confidence

    A fence about 8 feet tall and tight to the ground is the most reliable barrier; an outward-angled or double fence, or monofilament line strung at 30 to 36 inches, can also deter deer on smaller beds.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

  • Routine careRotate repellents as a supplement· every 2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Where fencing isn't feasible, apply odor/taste repellents and alternate formulations, reapplying every couple of weeks and after rain; combining repellents with fencing works best.

    Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

Water deeply at fruiting

Watering
  • Routine careProvide steady deep watering during fruiting· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Once plants begin flowering and setting fruit, supply about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week in deep soakings rather than light sprinkles, ideally at the base; even moisture reduces cracking, blossom-end rot, and bitter or misshapen fruit.

    Source: UMN Extension: Tomato disorders; UMN Extension: Growing tomatoes

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Cutworm collars at transplant

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careSet a collar around each new transplantstrong evidence — extension confidence

    When setting out transplants, slip a collar (a toilet-paper tube, paper cup with the bottom cut out, or similar) around each stem and press it a couple inches into the soil so it stands a few inches above ground, blocking cutworms from the stem.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

Harden off seedlings

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Read: starting seeds indoors

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your potatoand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Bacterial soft rot

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: mushy water-soaked decay of fleshy tissue; slimy soft rot of heads, bulbs, roots, or fruit; foul odor from rotting tissue; rapid collapse after wounding or in warm wet conditions; rot spreading in storage

  • CulturalRemove rotting plants and produce (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Soft rot can't be cured once tissue breaks down; promptly remove and discard affected plants and produce so the bacteria don't spread to neighbors or other stored vegetables.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

  • CulturalAvoid wounds and excess moisturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Harvest in dry conditions, handle gently to avoid bruising, control insects that create entry wounds, and improve drainage; cure and store bulbs and roots cool and dry.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

  • CulturalDon't overwater and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid waterlogged soil and overhead watering that splashes bacteria, and rotate away from previously affected fleshy crops to lower disease pressure.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

Fusarium / Verticillium wilt

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: wilting that doesn't recover overnight; yellowing climbs one side or one branch first; brown streaking inside a cut stem

  • CulturalRemove the plant; rotate and choose resistant varietiesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    There is no cure once a plant is infected. Pull it, avoid planting the same family there for 3-4 years, and grow V/F-resistance-coded varieties next season.

    Source: UMN Extension: Tomato Wilts

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Late blight

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: large greasy gray-green blotches on leaves; white fuzzy growth on undersides in damp weather; brown firm rot on fruit/tubers; spreads fast in cool wet spells

  • CulturalRemove and bag infected plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Late blight is highly contagious and can wipe out a planting in days. Pull and bag (don't compost) symptomatic plants to protect neighbors and nearby gardens.

    Source: Cornell: Late Blight

Phytophthora blight (root and crown rot)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilting and collapse of peppers or squash; dark water-soaked lesions at the crown or stem base; white cottony growth on infected fruit; root and crown rot; vine and fruit rot after heavy rain or in wet low spots

  • CulturalRemove affected plants at first sign (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Infected plants can't be saved; promptly pull and destroy them at the start of an outbreak to slow spread, and avoid working in beds when wet.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

  • CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterloggingstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Plant on raised beds, never let beds stay saturated, and water with drip rather than flooding, since this water mold thrives in standing water and saturated soil.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

  • CulturalRotate and choose tolerant varietiesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Rotate out of peppers, cucurbits, and tomatoes for at least three years where the disease has occurred, and select tolerant or resistant varieties when available.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables

Root-knot nematodes

Nematodesevere

Symptoms: galls or knots along roots; stunted plants; yellowing and midday wilting that recovers at night; poor vigor despite good care; patchy poor growth in beds

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then rotate (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Root-knot nematodes can't be eradicated from garden soil, so confirm via a county Extension nematode assay and rotate beds to non-hosts or resistant varieties (look for VFN-type resistance in tomato).

    Source: Clemson HGIC; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalPlant suppressive cover/rotation cropsmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    A solid planting of French marigolds grown 2+ months and turned under, or cover crops such as sorghum-sudangrass or cowpea, can lower populations between susceptible crops.

    Source: UF/IFAS; Clemson HGIC

  • CulturalSanitation and organic mattermoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid moving infested soil on tools or transplants, build soil organic matter to support beneficial organisms, and keep plants well watered to help them tolerate root damage.

    Source: UC IPM; Clemson HGIC

Southern blight

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilting in hot weather; yellowing then collapse of whole plant; white fan-like mold mat at the stem base and soil; tan-brown mustard-seed-sized sclerotia near soil line; girdled rotted lower stem

  • CulturalRemove infected plants and surrounding soil (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Once a plant collapses it can't be cured; dig out the plant plus the top few inches of nearby soil containing sclerotia and dispose of it, avoiding spread on tools.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press; UC IPM

  • CulturalBury residue and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Deep-turn soil to bury sclerotia, remove crop debris at season end, and rotate susceptible solanaceous and legume crops with grasses for several seasons.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

  • CulturalAdjust soil pH and plant earlymoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Maintain soil pH at the level recommended for the crop, since the disease is worse in low-pH soils, and time plantings so harvest begins before peak summer heat favors the fungus.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

Tomato spotted wilt virus

Virussevere

Symptoms: bronzing or purpling of young leaves; ringspots and concentric rings on leaves and fruit; one-sided or stunted growth; dark streaks on stems; mottled or blotchy ripening fruit

  • CulturalRemove infected plants (cannot be cured)strong evidence — extension confidence

    There is no cure once a plant is infected, so promptly pull and dispose of symptomatic plants to reduce the virus reservoir that thrips spread to healthy plants.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • CulturalStart clean and control weeds and thripsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use virus- and thrips-free transplants, choose resistant varieties (Sw-5 tomatoes, Tsw peppers) where available, and control weeds around the garden that harbor both virus and thrips vectors.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

White mold (Sclerotinia stem rot)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

  • CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • CulturalOpen the canopy and rotatestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • CulturalWater at the base, not overheadmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

    Source: UC IPM

Blister beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: swarms of elongated soft-bodied beetles; rapid defoliation of leaves and flowers; gray, black, or striped beetles clustered on plants; skeletonized foliage on tomatoes and beans

  • CulturalHand-pick wearing gloves· every 2 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wear gloves (these beetles release a blistering fluid) and knock beetles into soapy water, or use row cover ahead of swarms; their larvae eat grasshopper eggs, so tolerate light feeding when you can.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicSpot-treat heavy swarms· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If a large swarm threatens a planting, a pyrethrin or other labeled insecticide can knock them back per the label; avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Missouri Botanical Garden

Botrytis gray mold

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

  • CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetnessstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

Colorado potato beetle

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: yellow-orange humpbacked larvae stripping leaves; striped beetles; orange egg clusters on undersides

  • CulturalHand-pick adults, larvae, and egg clusters· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Daily hand-picking into soapy water knocks populations down hard; crush the orange egg masses on leaf undersides.

    Source: UMN Extension

  • OrganicSpinosad - label use only· every 1 wk · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For heavy larvae pressure, a labeled spinosad product is effective. Rotate modes of action to avoid resistance.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Damping-off (seedlings)

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: seedlings flop over and collapse at the soil line; thin water-soaked pinched stem base; fungus gnats or constantly wet mix

  • CulturalDry out, ventilate, sow into clean mixstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use sterile seed-starting mix, bottom-water and let the surface dry between waterings, add airflow, and don't over-sow. Damping-off can't be cured once a seedling collapses.

    Source: UMN Extension: Damping-off

Read: starting seeds indoors

Early blight

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: yellow leaves with dark concentric-ring (bullseye) spots; spotting marches up from the bottom; oldest/lowest leaves first

  • CulturalRemove affected lower leavesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off spotted leaves into the trash (not compost). Mulch heavily to stop soil splash and water at the base.

    Source: UMass Extension

  • CulturalPrune for airflowstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Thin crowded interior foliage so leaves dry quickly after rain or dew.

    Source: UMass Extension

  • ChemicalCopper - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Only if established and spreading. Apply per label every 7-10 days; follow rates and pre-harvest intervals.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Herbicide drift damage (growth-regulator)

Disordermoderate

Symptoms: cupped, curled, or strap-like distorted new leaves; twisted stems and petioles; parallel veins on narrowed young leaves; stunting and delayed fruiting; symptoms appearing on new growth days after a nearby spray

  • CulturalIdentify the source and protect future plantingsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Growth-regulator herbicides like 2,4-D and dicamba cause this distortion via drift or contaminated sprayers and mulch; identify and stop the source, and never use a sprayer that previously held herbicide on the garden.

    Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

  • CulturalSupport recovery if exposure was lightmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Plants only lightly exposed (not directly sprayed) often outgrow the damage; keep them watered and lightly fed so they can push out normal new growth, though fruiting may be delayed.

    Source: UMN Extension

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Potassium deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test firststrong evidence — extension confidence

    Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidancemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Potato Leafhopper / Hopperburn (Potato)

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: V-shaped yellowing at leaf tips; browning and scorching of leaf margins (hopperburn); cupped, stunted leaves; tiny green wedge-shaped insects that hop or run sideways

  • CulturalScout leaf undersides and use row cover earlystrong evidence — extension confidence

    Scout undersides of leaves for nymphs and adults and exclude with row cover on young plants, since damage comes from feeding toxins (hopperburn), not from a disease.

    Source: UMass Extension; Wisconsin Hort. Extension

  • OrganicTreat with contact insecticide, covering leaf undersides· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For organic management apply a pyrethrin product with thorough coverage of leaf undersides where nymphs feed, per the label.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMass Extension; Wisconsin Hort. Extension

  • ChemicalApply a labeled foliar insecticide under heavy pressure· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Where populations exceed thresholds, apply a labeled foliar insecticide (e.g., pyrethroid class) per the label, rotating classes to manage resistance.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Iowa State Extension; Cornell

Root rot from overwatering / poor drainage

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Stink bugs (brown marmorated and native)

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: cloudy or corky spots on fruit; dimpled or pitted fruit; catfacing on tomatoes; shield-shaped brown or green bugs; barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides

  • CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM Pest Notes

  • CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Thrips on fruiting vegetables

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: silvery or stippled flecking on leaves; black specks of frass; distorted or scarred young leaves and fruit; tiny slender insects in flowers; deformed fruit set

  • CulturalRemove weed and crop reservoirsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Control flowering weeds in and around the garden and remove spent host crops promptly, since thrips build up on these and move onto fruiting vegetables; avoid planting next to onions, garlic, or cereals where thrips numbers spike.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalKeep plants vigorous and rinse foliagemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Water and feed adequately so plants tolerate feeding, and a forceful water spray can knock down populations; reflective mulch can also deter thrips from settling on young plants.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicTreat with spinosad or oil if needed· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If thrips are damaging growing points or fruit, spinosad or insecticidal soap/oil can help per the label; rotate modes of action and avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators and natural enemies.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

Tomato hornworm

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: large green caterpillars with a tail horn; whole leaves and stem tips stripped overnight; dark frass pellets

  • CulturalHand-pick (leave parasitized ones)· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick hornworms by hand at dusk. If one is covered in white rice-like cocoons, leave it - those are beneficial parasitic wasps doing your work.

    Source: UMN Extension

  • OrganicBt - label use only· every 1 wk · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For heavy infestations, Bt kurstaki per label targets the caterpillars.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Whiteflies

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

  • CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  • OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

Cutworms

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: seedlings cut off at soil line; transplants toppled overnight; wilted clipped plants in a row; chewed stems near ground; gray-brown caterpillars curled in soil

  • CulturalPlace stem collars on transplantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  • CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  • OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Cutworms

Phosphorus deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: stunted plants with dark dull green leaves; reddish or purplish tint on leaves and undersides; delayed maturity and poor fruiting; symptoms worst in cold spring soils; older leaves affected first

  • CulturalCheck soil test and soil temperaturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Purpling in cold spring soils is often temporary, since cold roots can't take up phosphorus that's actually present; warm weather usually resolves it, so confirm a true shortage with a soil test before adding phosphorus.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicAdd phosphorus only if the test calls for itmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If low phosphorus is confirmed, work a phosphorus source into the root zone per the test recommendation, and keep soil pH in range since extreme pH ties up phosphorus.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Wireworms

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: patchy poor germination; seedlings die in stretches; tunneled holes in potatoes and root crops; hard shiny orange-brown worms in soil; thinning stands after sod or grass

  • CulturalRotate away from grassy groundstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting susceptible crops right after sod, pasture, or grass cover, where wireworms build up; rotate to a less-favored crop and let infested beds dry out between plantings.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms; UC IPM: Wireworms

  • CulturalBait-trap to monitor· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Bury pieces of carrot or potato or a handful of soaked wheat seed as bait when soil reaches about 50F, check after several days, and remove the worms you find to gauge and reduce pressure.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Edema (oedema)

Disorderlow

Symptoms: small watery blisters or bumps on leaf undersides; corky tan or brown scabby spots on leaves and stems; yellow flecking on upper leaf surface; worse in cool cloudy humid spells; not spreading plant to plant

Magnesium deficiency

Deficiencylow

Symptoms: yellowing between the veins of older leaves; veins stay green (interveinal); common in sandy soils and containers

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then correct· every 2 wks · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Interveinal yellowing on older leaves suggests magnesium. Confirm with a test; if low, a dilute Epsom-salt foliar spray is a short-term fix while you amend the soil.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Nitrogen deficiency

Deficiencylow

Symptoms: oldest leaves uniformly pale yellow; plant pale and slow overall; common in containers and after heavy rain

  • CulturalFeed with balanced fertilizer· every 2 wks · ~4 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a balanced organic fertilizer or fish emulsion; new growth greens up within ~2 weeks. Don't overcorrect.

    Source: UMass Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Potato scab

Diseaselow

Symptoms: rough corky raised or pitted lesions on tuber skin; brown scabby patches; tubers otherwise firm and edible; worse in dry soil and high pH

Sunscald

Disorderlow

Symptoms: pale leathery patch on the sun-exposed shoulder of fruit; follows heavy pruning or leaf loss

  • CulturalKeep canopy coverstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Stop over-pruning and let foliage shade the fruit; shade cloth helps in heat waves. Damaged fruit is still edible if you cut out the patch.

    Source: UMN Extension

Transplant shock

Disorderlow

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: wilting or drooping right after transplanting; stalled growth for days after setting out; leaf scorch or edge browning on new transplants; temporary yellowing; recovery once roots establish

  • CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • CulturalHarden off and plant gently next timestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

    Source: UMN Extension