Celtuce / Stem Lettuce

Symptoms: bronzing or purpling of young leaves; ringspots and concentric rings on leaves and fruit; one-sided or stunted growth; dark streaks on stems; mottled or blotchy ripening fruit

• CulturalRemove infected plants (cannot be cured)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There is no cure once a plant is infected, so promptly pull and dispose of symptomatic plants to reduce the virus reservoir that thrips spread to healthy plants.

  Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalStart clean and control weeds and thrips●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use virus- and thrips-free transplants, choose resistant varieties (Sw-5 tomatoes, Tsw peppers) where available, and control weeds around the garden that harbor both virus and thrips vectors.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

• CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalOpen the canopy and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalWater at the base, not overhead●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

• CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossoms●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetness●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

• CulturalHandpick into soapy water· every 1 days · ~4 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In early morning when beetles are sluggish, knock them into a bucket of soapy water; daily removal also reduces the scent that draws in more beetles. Skip the lure traps, which tend to attract more beetles than they catch.

  Source: UMN Extension: Japanese beetles; PennState Extension: Japanese Beetles in the Home Garden

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalCover plants past bloom●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  On crops that have finished flowering and set fruit, drape a row cover or netting to keep beetles off without blocking pollination during bloom.

  Source: UMN Extension: Japanese beetles

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: small wedge-shaped insects hop from leaves; stippled or yellowed foliage; with aster yellows: yellow stunted growth, witches-broom of thin shoots, deformed bitter carrots

• CulturalRemove infected plants and weed reservoirs●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Aster yellows can't be cured, so pull and discard plants showing yellowing and witches-broom, and clear nearby weedy hosts that harbor the phytoplasma and its leafhoppers.

  Source: UMN Extension: Aster yellows; UC IPM: Aster Yellows

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalExclude leafhoppers with row cover●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  On young susceptible crops, a floating row cover keeps egg-laying leafhoppers off and lowers the chance of aster-yellows spread.

  Source: UMN Extension: Aster yellows

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: white powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces; starts as spots then spreads; leaves yellow and dry under the coating

• CulturalImprove airflow + remove worst leaves●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cut out the most heavily coated leaves and thin for airflow; avoid wetting foliage late in the day.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →
• OrganicPotassium-bicarbonate or sulfur - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a labeled potassium-bicarbonate or sulfur fungicide weekly per the label. No sulfur within 2 weeks of oil or in high heat.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

• CulturalLet soil drain and water less●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water root rots like Pythium thrive in saturated soil, so cut back watering, let the surface dry between irrigations, and water at the base rather than keeping soil constantly wet.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalImprove drainage and aeration●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use raised beds, loosen compacted soil, and add organic matter to improve drainage; remove plants that are already rotted since affected roots won't recover.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

• CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

  Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

  Schedule this in your garden →
• OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: deformed or puckered new growth; pitted or scarred stems and leaves; aborted or misshapen buds and fruit; catfaced or dimpled strawberries; small bronze-green bugs with triangular back marking

• CulturalManage surrounding weeds●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Keep broadleaf weeds mowed or removed around the garden, since lygus build up on flowering weeds and move to crops as those weeds dry down; avoid mowing large weedy areas right beside fruiting crops at bloom.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalVacuum or shake plants to monitor and reduce· every 5 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Tap plants over a light-colored tray to check for nymphs; a handheld vacuum used once or twice weekly can hold low to moderate numbers down on small plantings.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →
• OrganicTreat nymphs if damage is building· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For active nymph infestations, azadirachtin or a Beauveria bassiana product can give some control per the label; preserve the parasitic wasps and other natural enemies that help suppress lygus.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

• CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  Schedule this in your garden →
• OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  Schedule this in your garden →

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: seedlings cut off at soil line; transplants toppled overnight; wilted clipped plants in a row; chewed stems near ground; gray-brown caterpillars curled in soil

• CulturalPlace stem collars on transplants●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  Schedule this in your garden →
• OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Cutworms

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

• CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

  Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  Schedule this in your garden →
• OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: plant sends up a tall central flower stalk; leaves turn bitter; growth turns leggy; happens during heat and long days in lettuce, spinach, and brassicas

• CulturalShade and harvest before bolting●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Once a plant bolts it can't be reversed, so harvest at the first sign of stalk formation; 30-50% shade cloth and steady watering during heat help delay bolting in cool-season crops.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cool-season crops; PennState Extension: Heat-Proofing Your Vegetable Garden

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalUse bolt-resistant varieties and succession sow●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Choose heat-tolerant, slow-bolt varieties and stagger small sowings so a heat spell doesn't take out the whole planting.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cool-season crops

  Schedule this in your garden →

Symptoms: ragged irregular holes in leaves and seedlings; chewed flower petals; damage to soft fruit; pincered insects hiding in dark moist spots; feeding noticed mainly overnight

• CulturalTrap and remove· every 1 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Set rolled damp newspaper, low tuna-style cans of oil, or short tubes near plants at dusk, then dump trapped earwigs into soapy water each morning; reduce mulch and damp hiding spots near vulnerable seedlings.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →
• OrganicApply a bait only if damage persists· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Established plants usually tolerate earwigs, which also eat aphids; if seedlings are being destroyed, a spinosad-based bait labeled for earwigs can help per the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

  Schedule this in your garden →

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: wilting or drooping right after transplanting; stalled growth for days after setting out; leaf scorch or edge browning on new transplants; temporary yellowing; recovery once roots establish

• CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  Schedule this in your garden →
• CulturalHarden off and plant gently next time●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

  Source: UMN Extension

  Schedule this in your garden →