Winter Squash (Banana)

Symptoms: sudden wilting of individual leaves then whole vines; wilt with no yellowing at first; plants collapse despite moist soil; cut stem oozes sticky sap that strings out; cucumber beetles present

• CulturalRemove wilting plants and control beetles●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There's no cure once a plant is infected, so pull and discard wilting vines; the key is managing cucumber beetles, which carry the bacterium, since beetle control is the most effective way to prevent wilt.

  Source: UMN Extension: Bacterial wilt of cucurbits; UMass Extension: Cucurbits Bacterial Wilt

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• CulturalProtect young plants with row cover●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cover seedlings with floating row cover to keep beetles off during the vulnerable early stages, removing it at flowering so pollinators can reach the blooms.

  Source: UMN Extension: Bacterial wilt of cucurbits

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Symptoms: water-soaked stem cankers; amber gummy ooze on stems; tan-to-dark circular leaf lesions with concentric rings; black speck-like fruiting bodies; black rot of fruit

• CulturalRotate, sanitize, and use clean seed●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use disease-free seed and rotate at least 2 years away from cucurbits, removing and destroying infected vines and fruit since the fungus survives in debris and seed. This is a prevention/management problem, not a cure.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell LIHREC

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• CulturalKeep foliage dry●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Switch to drip irrigation and space plants for airflow so leaves dry quickly, since free moisture drives infection.

  Source: UMN Extension; UF/IFAS

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Symptoms: sudden wilting and collapse of peppers or squash; dark water-soaked lesions at the crown or stem base; white cottony growth on infected fruit; root and crown rot; vine and fruit rot after heavy rain or in wet low spots

• CulturalRemove affected plants at first sign (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Infected plants can't be saved; promptly pull and destroy them at the start of an outbreak to slow spread, and avoid working in beds when wet.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

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• CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterlogging●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant on raised beds, never let beds stay saturated, and water with drip rather than flooding, since this water mold thrives in standing water and saturated soil.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

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• CulturalRotate and choose tolerant varieties●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Rotate out of peppers, cucurbits, and tomatoes for at least three years where the disease has occurred, and select tolerant or resistant varieties when available.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables

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Symptoms: sudden wilt and crown collapse; soft water-soaked rot at the crown; large tan-to-salmon soft spots on fruit; white yeast-like mold on rotting fruit; plants dying in wet low spots

• CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterlogging●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant on raised, well-drained beds, avoid low wet spots, and lengthen intervals between irrigations, since this water mold thrives in saturated soil. Once established it is very hard to control, so prevention is key.

  Source: UC IPM; Clemson Extension

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• CulturalRotate and avoid infested fields●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid sites with a Phytophthora history and rotate to non-host crops (avoid cucurbits, peppers, tomato, eggplant), since the oospores survive in soil for years.

  Source: Clemson Extension; OSU Extension

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• ChemicalApply oomycete-targeted fungicide preventively· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  As part of an integrated program, apply an oomycete-active fungicide (e.g., mefenoxam or phosphonate class) preventively before wet weather, rotating modes of action per the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM; MSU Extension

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Symptoms: entry holes in fruit with sawdust-like frass; tunneled squash and cucumber fruit; chewed buds and flowers; caterpillars boring into stems and fruit

• CulturalPlant early and use trap/less-preferred crops●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In southern regions plant early to harvest before populations build, prefer less-susceptible types (e.g., butternut), and remove infested fruit promptly, since larvae feed inside the fruit.

  Source: UF/IFAS; LSU AgCenter

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• OrganicTreat early before larvae bore in· every 5 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Scout flowers and apply a Bt (B. thuringiensis kurstaki) product targeting young larvae before they enter fruit, since internal feeders are protected once inside; repeat per the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UF/IFAS; UT Extension

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• ChemicalApply insecticide on a tight schedule under heavy pressure· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Where pressure is severe, apply a labeled insecticide (e.g., pyrethroid or spinosyn class) timed to flowering and small larvae, per the label, rotating classes.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UF/IFAS; LSU AgCenter

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Symptoms: galls or knots along roots; stunted plants; yellowing and midday wilting that recovers at night; poor vigor despite good care; patchy poor growth in beds

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then rotate (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Root-knot nematodes can't be eradicated from garden soil, so confirm via a county Extension nematode assay and rotate beds to non-hosts or resistant varieties (look for VFN-type resistance in tomato).

  Source: Clemson HGIC; UF/IFAS

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• CulturalPlant suppressive cover/rotation crops●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  A solid planting of French marigolds grown 2+ months and turned under, or cover crops such as sorghum-sudangrass or cowpea, can lower populations between susceptible crops.

  Source: UF/IFAS; Clemson HGIC

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• CulturalSanitation and organic matter●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid moving infested soil on tools or transplants, build soil organic matter to support beneficial organisms, and keep plants well watered to help them tolerate root damage.

  Source: UC IPM; Clemson HGIC

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Symptoms: sudden wilting in hot weather; yellowing then collapse of whole plant; white fan-like mold mat at the stem base and soil; tan-brown mustard-seed-sized sclerotia near soil line; girdled rotted lower stem

• CulturalRemove infected plants and surrounding soil (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Once a plant collapses it can't be cured; dig out the plant plus the top few inches of nearby soil containing sclerotia and dispose of it, avoiding spread on tools.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press; UC IPM

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• CulturalBury residue and rotate●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Deep-turn soil to bury sclerotia, remove crop debris at season end, and rotate susceptible solanaceous and legume crops with grasses for several seasons.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

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• CulturalAdjust soil pH and plant early●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Maintain soil pH at the level recommended for the crop, since the disease is worse in low-pH soils, and time plantings so harvest begins before peak summer heat favors the fungus.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

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Symptoms: a vine suddenly wilts at the height of summer; sawdust-like frass at a hole near the stem base; hollowed stem

• CulturalRow-cover early; bury nodes for backup roots●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cover plants until flowering to block the egg-laying moth, then hand-pollinate or uncover. Mounding soil over vine nodes lets the plant re-root past a borer.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

• CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalOpen the canopy and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalWater at the base, not overhead●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: small angular water-soaked leaf spots bounded by veins; spots dry and tear leaving holes; milky bacterial ooze on leaf undersides in humidity; water-soaked spots on fruit

• CulturalUse clean seed, rotate, avoid working wet plants●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant certified pathogen-free seed, rotate 2-3 years away from cucurbits, and never cultivate or harvest while foliage is wet, since this bacterial disease spreads in water and on hands and tools. Bacterial diseases are managed, not cured.

  Source: UMN Extension; UF/IFAS

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• CulturalAvoid overhead irrigation●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use drip irrigation and space plants for rapid drying, since splashing water spreads the bacteria.

  Source: UMN Extension; Univ. of Illinois Extension

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• ChemicalApply copper preventively in warm humid weather· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  During warm, moist periods that favor disease, apply a fixed-copper bactericide preventively to slow spread, per the label; copper suppresses but does not eliminate the bacterium.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UF/IFAS; PNW Handbooks

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Symptoms: small sunken circular spots on ripening fruit; spots enlarge with darkened concentric centers; soft rot spreading inward; worse on ripe tomatoes and cucurbit fruit in wet weather

• CulturalMulch, stake, and harvest promptly●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Stake and mulch to keep fruit off the soil, avoid overhead watering, and pick ripe fruit promptly; rotate out of the affected family for at least a year and remove infected debris.

  Source: UMN Extension: Anthracnose of cucurbits; UMass Extension: Solanaceous Anthracnose

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• OrganicApply a labeled fungicide on schedule· every 1 wk · ~4 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  From first fruit set onward, apply a labeled fungicide per the label on a regular schedule, covering fruit and leaf undersides, especially in extended wet weather.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMass Extension: Solanaceous Anthracnose; Clemson HGIC: Cucurbit Diseases

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Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

• CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossoms●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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• CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetness●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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Symptoms: yellow beetles with stripes or spots; chewed leaves and flowers; wilting that follows (bacterial wilt risk)

• CulturalRow-cover early; clean up debris●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  These beetles also spread bacterial wilt, so block them with netting on young plants and remove garden debris where they overwinter.

  Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

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• OrganicLabeled insecticide for heavy pressure - label use only· every 1 wk · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If wilt risk is high, a labeled product applied in the evening protects pollinators. Follow the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Cornell

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Symptoms: seedlings flop over and collapse at the soil line; thin water-soaked pinched stem base; fungus gnats or constantly wet mix

• CulturalDry out, ventilate, sow into clean mix●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use sterile seed-starting mix, bottom-water and let the surface dry between waterings, add airflow, and don't over-sow. Damping-off can't be cured once a seedling collapses.

  Source: UMN Extension: Damping-off

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Symptoms: angular yellow patches bounded by leaf veins on top; gray-purple fuzz on the underside; spreads in cool humid weather

• CulturalSpace, prune, and water at the base●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Improve airflow, remove infected leaves, and keep foliage dry. Resistant cucumber varieties help next season.

  Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

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• ChemicalLabeled downy-mildew fungicide - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  In wet seasons a labeled fungicide on a 7-day schedule slows spread. Follow the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

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Symptoms: yellowing between veins of youngest leaves while veins stay green; new growth pale or nearly white; bleaching and browning of leaf tips in severe cases; symptoms worst on alkaline high-pH soils; older leaves stay greener than new ones

• CulturalTest and address soil pH●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Iron is present but unavailable in high-pH soils, so test soil pH and, for the affected bed, lower pH toward the crop's preferred range (especially important for acid-loving blueberries) rather than just adding iron.

  Source: UMN Extension; UF/IFAS

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• OrganicUse chelated iron for a quick correction· every 2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  A foliar spray or soil drench of chelated iron can green up new growth per the label; soil-applied ferrous iron quickly oxidizes and becomes unavailable in high-pH soil, so chelate plus pH management works best.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UF/IFAS

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Symptoms: mottled light-and-dark green leaf patterns; puckered distorted or fern-like leaves; stunted growth; mottled bumpy fruit; spread by aphids and handling

• CulturalRemove infected plants promptly●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There's no cure, so pull and discard plants showing mosaic symptoms to limit spread, and wash hands and tools after handling them; control aphids that vector these viruses.

  Source: UMN Extension: Mosaic viruses; UC IPM: Mosaic

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• CulturalUse resistant varieties and clean up weeds●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Where mosaic is a recurring problem, choose resistant varieties and remove weedy hosts nearby that can carry the virus over.

  Source: UMN Extension: Mosaic viruses

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Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test first●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidance●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: white powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces; starts as spots then spreads; leaves yellow and dry under the coating

• CulturalImprove airflow + remove worst leaves●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cut out the most heavily coated leaves and thin for airflow; avoid wetting foliage late in the day.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicPotassium-bicarbonate or sulfur - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a labeled potassium-bicarbonate or sulfur fungicide weekly per the label. No sulfur within 2 weeks of oil or in high heat.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

• CulturalLet soil drain and water less●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water root rots like Pythium thrive in saturated soil, so cut back watering, let the surface dry between irrigations, and water at the base rather than keeping soil constantly wet.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• CulturalImprove drainage and aeration●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use raised beds, loosen compacted soil, and add organic matter to improve drainage; remove plants that are already rotted since affected roots won't recover.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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Symptoms: small sunken corky spots on fruit; gummy amber ooze from fruit lesions; angular pale leaf spots that drop out; cavities and dark velvety mold on fruit lesions

• CulturalPlant resistant cultivars and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use scab-resistant cucumber cultivars where available and rotate 2-3 years to non-cucurbit crops, removing crop debris to lower spore carryover.

  Source: UMN Extension; UMass Extension

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• CulturalPromote rapid drying●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Choose well-drained sites with good air movement, avoid overhead irrigation and dense canopies, and avoid handling plants when wet.

  Source: UMass Extension; Cornell

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Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

• CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

  Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

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• OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

• CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: bronze/gray shield-shaped bugs at the plant base; bronze egg clusters on leaf undersides; wilting runners

• CulturalCrush eggs, trap adults, hand-pick· every 3 days · ~4 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Scrape off the coppery egg clusters, lay a board by the base and collect bugs under it each morning. Easiest controlled early.

  Source: UMN Extension: Squash Bug

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Symptoms: cloudy or corky spots on fruit; dimpled or pitted fruit; catfacing on tomatoes; shield-shaped brown or green bugs; barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides

• CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weeds●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM Pest Notes

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• CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 days●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: silvery or stippled flecking on leaves; black specks of frass; distorted or scarred young leaves and fruit; tiny slender insects in flowers; deformed fruit set

• CulturalRemove weed and crop reservoirs●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Control flowering weeds in and around the garden and remove spent host crops promptly, since thrips build up on these and move onto fruiting vegetables; avoid planting next to onions, garlic, or cereals where thrips numbers spike.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

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• CulturalKeep plants vigorous and rinse foliage●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Water and feed adequately so plants tolerate feeding, and a forceful water spray can knock down populations; reflective mulch can also deter thrips from settling on young plants.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicTreat with spinosad or oil if needed· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If thrips are damaging growing points or fruit, spinosad or insecticidal soap/oil can help per the label; rotate modes of action and avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators and natural enemies.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

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Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

• CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

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• OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: seedlings cut off at soil line; transplants toppled overnight; wilted clipped plants in a row; chewed stems near ground; gray-brown caterpillars curled in soil

• CulturalPlace stem collars on transplants●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

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• CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

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• OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Cutworms

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: stunted plants with dark dull green leaves; reddish or purplish tint on leaves and undersides; delayed maturity and poor fruiting; symptoms worst in cold spring soils; older leaves affected first

• CulturalCheck soil test and soil temperature●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Purpling in cold spring soils is often temporary, since cold roots can't take up phosphorus that's actually present; warm weather usually resolves it, so confirm a true shortage with a soil test before adding phosphorus.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• OrganicAdd phosphorus only if the test calls for it●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If low phosphorus is confirmed, work a phosphorus source into the root zone per the test recommendation, and keep soil pH in range since extreme pH ties up phosphorus.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

• CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

  Source: UC IPM: Aphids

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: small watery blisters or bumps on leaf undersides; corky tan or brown scabby spots on leaves and stems; yellow flecking on upper leaf surface; worse in cool cloudy humid spells; not spreading plant to plant

• CulturalBalance watering and humidity●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Edema comes from the plant taking up more water than it releases, not a pathogen, so water less often and water in the morning so roots aren't taking up water faster than leaves transpire on cool, humid days.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden; PennState Extension

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• CulturalImprove airflow and drainage●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants for good air movement, improve soil and container drainage, and avoid overcrowding under cover; affected leaves won't recover but new growth comes in normally once conditions balance.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden; PennState Extension

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Symptoms: yellowing between the veins of older leaves; veins stay green (interveinal); common in sandy soils and containers

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then correct· every 2 wks · ~4 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Interveinal yellowing on older leaves suggests magnesium. Confirm with a test; if low, a dilute Epsom-salt foliar spray is a short-term fix while you amend the soil.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: oldest leaves uniformly pale yellow; plant pale and slow overall; common in containers and after heavy rain

• CulturalFeed with balanced fertilizer· every 2 wks · ~4 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a balanced organic fertilizer or fish emulsion; new growth greens up within ~2 weeks. Don't overcorrect.

  Source: UMass Extension

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Symptoms: small fruit yellow, shrivel, and drop off; lots of flowers but little fruit; misshapen lopsided fruit; few bees visiting; worse in heat or cool rainy spells

• CulturalHand-pollinate in the morning· every 2 days · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  On a dry morning when flowers are open, transfer pollen from a male flower (slim stem) to the center of each female flower (tiny fruit behind the bloom) with a small brush or by touching the bloom directly.

  Source: PennState Extension: Cucumber Pollination; UMN Extension: Flower and fruit set in cucurbits

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• CulturalSupport pollinators and wait out heat●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid spraying insecticides during bloom and plant flowers to draw bees; very high heat skews plants toward male flowers, so set usually improves as temperatures moderate.

  Source: UMN Extension: Flower and fruit set in cucurbits

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: wilting or drooping right after transplanting; stalled growth for days after setting out; leaf scorch or edge browning on new transplants; temporary yellowing; recovery once roots establish

• CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• CulturalHarden off and plant gently next time●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

  Source: UMN Extension

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