Shallot
Shallot is a vegetable in the Amaryllidaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 5-10. Plants reach harvest about 85–127 days after planting and sit about 6 inches apart.
Varieties
6 from High Mowing & Seeds Now · sorted by days to maturity▸Matador F185–115 days
High yields; Long-term storage; 2-3.5” bulbs
Giant, uniform shallots with an elegant teardrop shape in beautiful copper hued, papery skins. Large, blocky bulbs are highly marketable and suitable for long- term storage. A vigorous variety that produces two large twin bulbs per one seed. From our partners at Bejo Seeds.
Growing notes: Days to maturity are from direct seeding, subtract 1-2 weeks if transplanting. Onions are cool-season biennials dependent on day length for bulb formation. Short day onions start forming bulbs with 11-12 hrs of daylight, long day onions need 14-16 hrs, intermediate day onions fall in between. Start transplants indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost. Optimal soil temp for germination is 75-85°F. When seedlings reach 5”, trim to increase girth. Onions compete poorly with weeds and steady water is important. Harvest sweet and red onions after bulb development, and storage onions after tops dry up and flop over. Cure for 3-5 days in the field if weather is dry or indoors for 2 weeks at 75-80°F and 80% relative humidity. Store at 33-35°F at 65-70% relative humidity.
View on High Mowing ↗▸Dutch, Yellow90–120 days
Quick Overview: Easy to grow Excellent keeper Creamy yellow flesh High yielding Variety Details: Durable copper skin and creamy yellow flesh. Uniform in size and excellent keeper. Tender and spicy, with a pungent raw flavor that mellows and sweetens but still retains character when cooked. High yielding. Contains potassium and vitamins A, B-6 and C How to Plant: Plant the pointy side of the shallot facing up with no more than 1/4" of soil covering the shallot. Make sure your have 7-8 inches of soil to allow the roots to grow freely. Note: Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.)
View on Seeds Now ↗▸Holland, Red90–120 days
Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.) Quick Overview: Copper Red Easy to grow Rare heirloom variety - hard to find Stores very well Excellent flavor More Details: A coppery red outer skin peels easily to reveal a reddish-purple flesh. Excellent flavor, great in sauces. This one can produce tenfold!! Contains potassium and vitamins A, B-6 and C How to Plant: Plant the pointy side of the shallot facing up with no more than 1/4" of soil covering the shallot. Make sure your have 7-8 inches of soil to allow the roots to grow freely. Space each bulb 10" - 12" apart from each other. Note: Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.)
View on Seeds Now ↗▸Conservor F193–127 days
Stores well; 2-3” bulbs
Teardrop shaped bulbs with pink flesh and easy-to-peel, rosy skin. Conservor F1 has delicious flavor and stores well, offering more large, single bulbs. Great yields with a nice, rounded shape; like traditional French shallots.
Growing notes: Days to maturity are from direct seeding, subtract 1-2 weeks if transplanting. Onions are cool-season biennials dependent on day length for bulb formation. Short day onions start forming bulbs with 11-12 hrs of daylight, long day onions need 14-16 hrs, intermediate day onions fall in between. Start transplants indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost. Optimal soil temp for germination is 75-85°F. When seedlings reach 5”, trim to increase girth. Onions compete poorly with weeds and steady water is important. Harvest sweet and red onions after bulb development, and storage onions after tops dry up and flop over. Cure for 3-5 days in the field if weather is dry or indoors for 2 weeks at 75-80°F and 80% relative humidity. Store at 33-35°F at 65-70% relative humidity.
View on High Mowing ↗▸Innovator F194–126 days
UP; Long day; Long term storage; 2-3” bulbs
Resistance: HR: Downy Mildew
Elongated, shiny oval bulbs with copper skin, perfect for long term storage. A triumph in shallot breeding, it is the first variety from seed to have high resistance to downy mildew. Flesh is a beautiful pink with a mild, sweet flavor that is excellent in raw and cooked preparations. From our partners at Bejo Seeds.
Growing notes: Days to maturity are from direct seeding, subtract 1-2 weeks if transplanting. Onions are cool-season biennials dependent on day length for bulb formation. Short day onions start forming bulbs with 11-12 hrs of daylight, long day onions need 14-16 hrs, intermediate day onions fall in between. Start transplants indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost. Optimal soil temp for germination is 75-85°F. When seedlings reach 5”, trim to increase girth. Onions compete poorly with weeds and steady water is important. Harvest sweet and red onions after bulb development, and storage onions after tops dry up and flop over. Cure for 3-5 days in the field if weather is dry or indoors for 2 weeks at 75-80°F and 80% relative humidity. Store at 33-35°F at 65-70% relative humidity.
View on High Mowing ↗▸French, Red100–120 days
Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.) Quick Overview: Semi-long with red papery skin Pungent flavor Creamy inside Easy to peel Easy to grow Stores very well Excellent flavor How to Plant: Plant the pointy side of the shallot facing up with no more than 1/4" of soil covering the shallot. Make sure your have 7-8 inches of soil to allow the roots to grow freely. Space each bulb 10" - 12" apart from each other.
View on Seeds Now ↗
Plant spacing
In a square-foot bed, space shallot about 6 in apart — that fits 4 plants in each 1-foot square (2×2). Wider rows or containers space the same.
Plan your shallot planting
Add shallot to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.
Start your free plan →At a glance
Storing & preserving
Stores well in the right conditions. Cure 2–3 weeks, then store cool, dark, and dry — keeps for months.
- Cure & store: Dry the necks/skins fully, then store in a cool pantry.
- Freeze: Freeze chopped for cooking (texture softens).
General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.
Growing timeline
Companion planting — with cited sources
From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · ● traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.
Pairs well with (24)
- Black WalnutEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsjuglone-tolerant
Onion and other alliums are juglone-tolerant; listed as 'safe under walnut' in extension tables.
Source: Penn State Extension, S8
- CarrotEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter
Onions emit sulfur-containing volatiles (allyl sulfides) that interfere with host-finding behavior of carrot rust fly (Psila rosae), the principal carrot pest in cool-temperate North America. Reciprocally, carrot foliage volatiles disrupt onion fly (Delia antiqua) host-finding by a similar olfactory-masking mechanism. Multiple US/Canada extension stations recommend perimeter or alternating-row onion/carrot intercropping for both crops.
Region: Effect strongest in maritime / cool-summer regions with high carrot rust fly pressure (Pacific Northwest, Great Lakes, Maritimes, New England).
Source: S1, UC IPM, S4, University of Guelph / OMAFRA
- ParsnipEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter
Parsnip is susceptible to the same carrot rust fly (Psila rosae) that attacks carrot; the allium-volatile masking mechanism applies equally to parsnip. Long parsnip season (often 120+ days) makes a perimeter allium row especially useful.
Region: Maritime and Great Lakes regions where carrot rust fly is severe.
Source: S1, University of Guelph / OMAFRA
- ArugulaEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Allium volatiles partial deterrent for flea beetle and aphids on arugula; shared brassica / allium rationale.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- Asian GreensEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Same brassica / allium rationale as common cabbage.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- Bok ChoyEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Same brassica / allium rationale; see common cabbage.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- BroccoliEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Same brassica/allium rationale; see common cabbage.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Brussels SproutsEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Same brassica / allium pairing rationale as common cabbage. Long brussels sprout season (often 90-120+ days) makes companion alliums particularly practical.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Chinese CabbageEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Same brassica / allium rationale; see common cabbage.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- CollardsEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Same brassica/allium rationale; see common cabbage.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Common BeetEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Onion and beet are traditional bedfellows in extension home-garden guides; onion volatiles plausibly mask beet from leafminer flies, though direct trials are limited. Spatial use of bed is the main practical benefit.
Source: S1, University of Maryland Extension
- Common CabbageEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Onion volatiles are widely cited as a partial deterrent for cabbage maggot (Delia radicum) and brassica aphids; extension sources note the practice but acknowledge mixed results. The non-competing rooting depth (shallow onion vs. taproot brassica) supports interplanting.
Source: S5, University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Common KaleEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Allium volatiles cited as partial deterrent to cabbage aphid and cabbage maggot. See common cabbage for complete relationships.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Common LettuceEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Onion's shallow roots and short canopy do not compete with lettuce, and onion volatiles are reported to reduce aphid colonization on adjacent leafy greens. Cited consistently in extension home-garden guides although controlled trials are scarce.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Common SpinachEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Allium volatiles may mask spinach from leafminer flies; widely recommended in extension home-garden guides though direct evidence is limited.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- Hamburg ParsleyEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Like parsnip and carrot, Hamburg parsley is susceptible to carrot rust fly attacking the storage root; allium-volatile masking provides modest protection.
- KohlrabiEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Same brassica/allium pairing rationale; see common cabbage.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Romanesco Broccoli / CauliflowerEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Allium volatiles partial deterrent to cabbage maggot and aphids. See common cabbage for full discussion.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- RutabagaEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Allium volatiles cited by extension references as a partial deterrent to cabbage maggot (Delia radicum), the principal rutabaga and turnip pest. Shares the Brassica oleracea companion profile in broad strokes; see common cabbage for complete relationships.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Siberian KaleEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Shares the broad brassica / allium pairing rationale; see common cabbage for full discussion. Siberian kale is more cold-hardy than B. oleracea kale and is often overwintered, extending the allium-companion window.
Source: S13
- StrawberryEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Onion is traditionally listed as a strawberry companion with the rationale that allium volatiles deter aphids and some foliar disease vectors; empirical support is weak but the practice is cited by multiple extension home-garden references.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- Summer SavoryEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Summer savory is recommended near onions in extension home-garden guides; plausible volatile masking effect against onion thrips and onion maggot fly.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- Swiss ChardEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Allium-chard pairings appear in Northeast extension home-garden guides on the same rationale as beet-onion: alliums may mask leafminer host cues; primary benefit is bed efficiency.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- TurnipEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Allium volatiles cited as partial cabbage maggot deterrent; particularly relevant for root brassicas like turnip where maggot damage destroys the marketable yield.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
Avoid planting near (1)
- AsparagusEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationnutrient-competition, alternate-host-pest
Alliums and asparagus are both Asparagales and share some root-knot susceptibility; traditional companion charts list alliums as antagonists to asparagus. Empirical support is limited; consider Tier C with the caveat that this conflicts with allium-friendly companion traditions for most other crops.
Source: S1
Sources cited
- S1
- Cornell University Cooperative Extension — vegetable production guides
- S13
- University of New Hampshire Extension
- S23
- University of Guelph / OMAFRA (Ontario)
- S3
- UC IPM (University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources)
- S4
- Oregon State University Extension Service
- S5
- Michigan State University Extension
- S6
- Penn State Extension
- S8
- Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
- S9
- University of Maryland Extension — Home & Garden Info Center
Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations
When to feed, prune & water
Feed alliums in spring
Feeding- Routine careFeed nitrogen every 3 weeks during active growth· every 3 wks · ~9 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Alliums build the bulb from spring leaf growth. Feed a nitrogen source every ~3 weeks through spring, then stop once bulbs start to swell so they cure well.
Floating row cover timing
ProtectionUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careCover at planting and seal the edgesstrong evidence — extension confidence
Lay floating row cover over the crop right at seeding or transplanting and bury the edges with soil so pests can't get under; don't cover ground where the same crop grew last year, since overwintered pupae would emerge inside.
- Routine careRemove at flowering for pollinated cropsstrong evidence — extension confidence
On crops that need insect pollination, take the cover off once flowering begins so bees can reach the blooms; on self-pollinated or leafy crops you can leave it longer.
Something looks wrong?
Describe what you see on your shallotand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.
Bacterial soft rot
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove rotting plants and produce (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence
Soft rot can't be cured once tissue breaks down; promptly remove and discard affected plants and produce so the bacteria don't spread to neighbors or other stored vegetables.
- CulturalAvoid wounds and excess moisturestrong evidence — extension confidence
Harvest in dry conditions, handle gently to avoid bruising, control insects that create entry wounds, and improve drainage; cure and store bulbs and roots cool and dry.
- CulturalDon't overwater and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence
Avoid waterlogged soil and overhead watering that splashes bacteria, and rotate away from previously affected fleshy crops to lower disease pressure.
Onion & garlic white rot
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove infected plants and soil carefullystrong evidence — extension confidence
Dig and discard affected plants along with the surrounding soil to avoid spreading the long-lived sclerotia; clean soil off tools and boots, since this fungus can persist in soil for many years.
- CulturalAvoid moving infested soil and replantingstrong evidence — extension confidence
Don't replant alliums in known-infested ground; while rotation alone won't clear it, avoiding the area and not spreading contaminated soil is the most reliable home approach.
Leafhoppers & aster yellows
Diseasemoderate- CulturalRemove infected plants and weed reservoirsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Aster yellows can't be cured, so pull and discard plants showing yellowing and witches-broom, and clear nearby weedy hosts that harbor the phytoplasma and its leafhoppers.
- CulturalExclude leafhoppers with row covermoderate evidence — extension confidence
On young susceptible crops, a floating row cover keeps egg-laying leafhoppers off and lowers the chance of aster-yellows spread.
Leek moth and thrips on leeks
Pestmoderate- CulturalCover and clean upmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Cover plants with insect netting or row cover at planting to keep egg-laying leek moths and thrips off, and remove and destroy badly infested leaves and crop debris. Rotate alliums to a new spot each year to break the pest cycle.
- OrganicWash off thrips or spray· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
For thrips, hose plants down to dislodge them, or apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem product per the label. For leek moth caterpillars, a labeled spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis product applied per the label when young larvae are active can help.
Leek rust
Diseasemoderate- CulturalImprove airflow and remove infected leavesmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Leek rust is a fungal disease favored by damp, crowded conditions and lush growth; space plants well, avoid over-feeding with nitrogen, and remove badly affected leaves. Mild cases usually still produce a usable crop, and rotating alliums each year helps prevent buildup.
Onion thrips
Pestmoderate- CulturalOverhead-water and remove debris· every 3 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Thrips dislike moisture; overhead irrigation and weed/debris cleanup reduce them. Reflective mulch deters them on young plants.
- OrganicInsecticidal soap/spinosad - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
For heavy pressure a labeled soap or spinosad on a weekly schedule helps. Follow the label.
Cabbage & onion root maggots
PestmoderateUnusual this time of year.
- CulturalCover at planting with floating row coverstrong evidence — extension confidence
Place floating row cover over the crop at seeding or transplanting and bury the edges so flies cannot lay eggs at the stem base; do not use if the same crop grew there last year, since trapped pupae would hatch underneath.
- CulturalRotate and delay plantingstrong evidence — extension confidence
Rotate susceptible crops to a new spot each year and, where possible, delay planting to late spring to miss the main egg-laying window.