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Shallot

Allium cepa var. aggregatum
Also known as: French Shallot, Eschalot, Echalote

Shallot is a vegetable in the Amaryllidaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 5-10. Plants reach harvest about 85–127 days after planting and sit about 6 inches apart.

Varieties

6 from High Mowing & Seeds Now · sorted by days to maturity
  • Matador F185–115 days

    High yields; Long-term storage; 2-3.5” bulbs

    Giant, uniform shallots with an elegant teardrop shape in beautiful copper hued, papery skins. Large, blocky bulbs are highly marketable and suitable for long- term storage. A vigorous variety that produces two large twin bulbs per one seed. From our partners at Bejo Seeds.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from direct seeding, subtract 1-2 weeks if transplanting. Onions are cool-season biennials dependent on day length for bulb formation. Short day onions start forming bulbs with 11-12 hrs of daylight, long day onions need 14-16 hrs, intermediate day onions fall in between. Start transplants indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost. Optimal soil temp for germination is 75-85°F. When seedlings reach 5”, trim to increase girth. Onions compete poorly with weeds and steady water is important. Harvest sweet and red onions after bulb development, and storage onions after tops dry up and flop over. Cure for 3-5 days in the field if weather is dry or indoors for 2 weeks at 75-80°F and 80% relative humidity. Store at 33-35°F at 65-70% relative humidity.

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  • Dutch, Yellow90–120 days

    Quick Overview: Easy to grow Excellent keeper Creamy yellow flesh High yielding Variety Details: Durable copper skin and creamy yellow flesh. Uniform in size and excellent keeper. Tender and spicy, with a pungent raw flavor that mellows and sweetens but still retains character when cooked. High yielding. Contains potassium and vitamins A, B-6 and C How to Plant: Plant the pointy side of the shallot facing up with no more than 1/4" of soil covering the shallot. Make sure your have 7-8 inches of soil to allow the roots to grow freely. Note: Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.)

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  • Holland, Red90–120 days

    Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.) Quick Overview: Copper Red Easy to grow Rare heirloom variety - hard to find Stores very well Excellent flavor More Details: A coppery red outer skin peels easily to reveal a reddish-purple flesh. Excellent flavor, great in sauces. This one can produce tenfold!! Contains potassium and vitamins A, B-6 and C How to Plant: Plant the pointy side of the shallot facing up with no more than 1/4" of soil covering the shallot. Make sure your have 7-8 inches of soil to allow the roots to grow freely. Space each bulb 10" - 12" apart from each other. Note: Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.)

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  • Conservor F193–127 days

    Stores well; 2-3” bulbs

    Teardrop shaped bulbs with pink flesh and easy-to-peel, rosy skin. Conservor F1 has delicious flavor and stores well, offering more large, single bulbs. Great yields with a nice, rounded shape; like traditional French shallots.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from direct seeding, subtract 1-2 weeks if transplanting. Onions are cool-season biennials dependent on day length for bulb formation. Short day onions start forming bulbs with 11-12 hrs of daylight, long day onions need 14-16 hrs, intermediate day onions fall in between. Start transplants indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost. Optimal soil temp for germination is 75-85°F. When seedlings reach 5”, trim to increase girth. Onions compete poorly with weeds and steady water is important. Harvest sweet and red onions after bulb development, and storage onions after tops dry up and flop over. Cure for 3-5 days in the field if weather is dry or indoors for 2 weeks at 75-80°F and 80% relative humidity. Store at 33-35°F at 65-70% relative humidity.

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  • Innovator F194–126 days

    UP; Long day; Long term storage; 2-3” bulbs

    Resistance: HR: Downy Mildew

    Elongated, shiny oval bulbs with copper skin, perfect for long term storage. A triumph in shallot breeding, it is the first variety from seed to have high resistance to downy mildew. Flesh is a beautiful pink with a mild, sweet flavor that is excellent in raw and cooked preparations. From our partners at Bejo Seeds.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from direct seeding, subtract 1-2 weeks if transplanting. Onions are cool-season biennials dependent on day length for bulb formation. Short day onions start forming bulbs with 11-12 hrs of daylight, long day onions need 14-16 hrs, intermediate day onions fall in between. Start transplants indoors 8-12 weeks before last frost. Optimal soil temp for germination is 75-85°F. When seedlings reach 5”, trim to increase girth. Onions compete poorly with weeds and steady water is important. Harvest sweet and red onions after bulb development, and storage onions after tops dry up and flop over. Cure for 3-5 days in the field if weather is dry or indoors for 2 weeks at 75-80°F and 80% relative humidity. Store at 33-35°F at 65-70% relative humidity.

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  • French, Red100–120 days

    Each shallot can typically yield about 5-10 shallots per harvest. Best time to plant is usually in the Fall (Sept. - Nov.) Quick Overview: Semi-long with red papery skin Pungent flavor Creamy inside Easy to peel Easy to grow Stores very well Excellent flavor How to Plant: Plant the pointy side of the shallot facing up with no more than 1/4" of soil covering the shallot. Make sure your have 7-8 inches of soil to allow the roots to grow freely. Space each bulb 10" - 12" apart from each other.

    View on Seeds Now
Family
Amaryllidaceae
Category
Vegetable
Form
Bulb
Lifecycle
annual or perennial
Zone
5-10
Height
1–1.5 ft
Spread
0.3333333333333333–1 ft
Sun
Full sun

Plant spacing

4 plants per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: a 1-foot square divided into a 2-by-2 grid holding 4 shallot plants spaced 6 inches apart.
4 plants per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space shallot about 6 in apart — that fits 4 plants in each 1-foot square (2×2). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium

Plan your shallot planting

Add shallot to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

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At a glance

Days to harvest
85–127 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Harvest once
One main harvest
After harvest
Stores well
Holds (or improves) after peak
Frost tolerance
Semi-hardy · to ~24°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Germination
~70%
Typical minimum germination rate

Storing & preserving

Stores well in the right conditions. Cure 2–3 weeks, then store cool, dark, and dry — keeps for months.

  • Cure & store: Dry the necks/skins fully, then store in a cool pantry.
  • Freeze: Freeze chopped for cooking (texture softens).

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest shallotPlanting timeline for shallot, relative to last frost: start indoors from 16 weeks before last frost to 4 weeks before last frost; grow from 4 weeks before last frost to 8 weeks after last frost; harvest from 8 weeks after last frost to 14 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowHarvestLast frostTransplant
Start shallot indoors ~12 weeks before transplanting 4 weeks before last frost; first harvest 8 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
56-84 days
Outdoor planting
-28 to 0 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Pairs well with (24)

  • Black WalnutEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsjuglone-tolerant

    Onion and other alliums are juglone-tolerant; listed as 'safe under walnut' in extension tables.

    Source: Penn State Extension, S8

  • CarrotEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter

    Onions emit sulfur-containing volatiles (allyl sulfides) that interfere with host-finding behavior of carrot rust fly (Psila rosae), the principal carrot pest in cool-temperate North America. Reciprocally, carrot foliage volatiles disrupt onion fly (Delia antiqua) host-finding by a similar olfactory-masking mechanism. Multiple US/Canada extension stations recommend perimeter or alternating-row onion/carrot intercropping for both crops.

    Region: Effect strongest in maritime / cool-summer regions with high carrot rust fly pressure (Pacific Northwest, Great Lakes, Maritimes, New England).

    Source: S1, UC IPM, S4, University of Guelph / OMAFRA

  • ParsnipEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter

    Parsnip is susceptible to the same carrot rust fly (Psila rosae) that attacks carrot; the allium-volatile masking mechanism applies equally to parsnip. Long parsnip season (often 120+ days) makes a perimeter allium row especially useful.

    Region: Maritime and Great Lakes regions where carrot rust fly is severe.

    Source: S1, University of Guelph / OMAFRA

  • ArugulaEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Allium volatiles partial deterrent for flea beetle and aphids on arugula; shared brassica / allium rationale.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Asian GreensEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Same brassica / allium rationale as common cabbage.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Bok ChoyEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Same brassica / allium rationale; see common cabbage.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • BroccoliEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Same brassica/allium rationale; see common cabbage.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Brussels SproutsEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Same brassica / allium pairing rationale as common cabbage. Long brussels sprout season (often 90-120+ days) makes companion alliums particularly practical.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Chinese CabbageEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Same brassica / allium rationale; see common cabbage.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • CollardsEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Same brassica/allium rationale; see common cabbage.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Common BeetEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Onion and beet are traditional bedfellows in extension home-garden guides; onion volatiles plausibly mask beet from leafminer flies, though direct trials are limited. Spatial use of bed is the main practical benefit.

    Source: S1, University of Maryland Extension

  • Common CabbageEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Onion volatiles are widely cited as a partial deterrent for cabbage maggot (Delia radicum) and brassica aphids; extension sources note the practice but acknowledge mixed results. The non-competing rooting depth (shallow onion vs. taproot brassica) supports interplanting.

    Source: S5, University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Common KaleEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Allium volatiles cited as partial deterrent to cabbage aphid and cabbage maggot. See common cabbage for complete relationships.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Common LettuceEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Onion's shallow roots and short canopy do not compete with lettuce, and onion volatiles are reported to reduce aphid colonization on adjacent leafy greens. Cited consistently in extension home-garden guides although controlled trials are scarce.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Common SpinachEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Allium volatiles may mask spinach from leafminer flies; widely recommended in extension home-garden guides though direct evidence is limited.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Hamburg ParsleyEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Like parsnip and carrot, Hamburg parsley is susceptible to carrot rust fly attacking the storage root; allium-volatile masking provides modest protection.

    Source: S1, S13

  • KohlrabiEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Same brassica/allium pairing rationale; see common cabbage.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Romanesco Broccoli / CauliflowerEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Allium volatiles partial deterrent to cabbage maggot and aphids. See common cabbage for full discussion.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • RutabagaEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Allium volatiles cited by extension references as a partial deterrent to cabbage maggot (Delia radicum), the principal rutabaga and turnip pest. Shares the Brassica oleracea companion profile in broad strokes; see common cabbage for complete relationships.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

  • Siberian KaleEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Shares the broad brassica / allium pairing rationale; see common cabbage for full discussion. Siberian kale is more cold-hardy than B. oleracea kale and is often overwintered, extending the allium-companion window.

    Source: S13

  • StrawberryEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Onion is traditionally listed as a strawberry companion with the rationale that allium volatiles deter aphids and some foliar disease vectors; empirical support is weak but the practice is cited by multiple extension home-garden references.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Summer SavoryEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Summer savory is recommended near onions in extension home-garden guides; plausible volatile masking effect against onion thrips and onion maggot fly.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Swiss ChardEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Allium-chard pairings appear in Northeast extension home-garden guides on the same rationale as beet-onion: alliums may mask leafminer host cues; primary benefit is bed efficiency.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • TurnipEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Allium volatiles cited as partial cabbage maggot deterrent; particularly relevant for root brassicas like turnip where maggot damage destroys the marketable yield.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13

Avoid planting near (1)

  • AsparagusEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationnutrient-competition, alternate-host-pest

    Alliums and asparagus are both Asparagales and share some root-knot susceptibility; traditional companion charts list alliums as antagonists to asparagus. Empirical support is limited; consider Tier C with the caveat that this conflicts with allium-friendly companion traditions for most other crops.

    Source: S1

Sources cited

S1
Cornell University Cooperative Extension — vegetable production guides
S13
University of New Hampshire Extension
S23
University of Guelph / OMAFRA (Ontario)
S3
UC IPM (University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources)
S4
Oregon State University Extension Service
S5
Michigan State University Extension
S6
Penn State Extension
S8
Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
S9
University of Maryland Extension — Home & Garden Info Center

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Feed alliums in spring

Feeding
  • Routine careFeed nitrogen every 3 weeks during active growth· every 3 wks · ~9 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Alliums build the bulb from spring leaf growth. Feed a nitrogen source every ~3 weeks through spring, then stop once bulbs start to swell so they cure well.

    Source: UMN Extension

Floating row cover timing

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your shallotand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Bacterial soft rot

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: mushy water-soaked decay of fleshy tissue; slimy soft rot of heads, bulbs, roots, or fruit; foul odor from rotting tissue; rapid collapse after wounding or in warm wet conditions; rot spreading in storage

  • CulturalRemove rotting plants and produce (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Soft rot can't be cured once tissue breaks down; promptly remove and discard affected plants and produce so the bacteria don't spread to neighbors or other stored vegetables.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

  • CulturalAvoid wounds and excess moisturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Harvest in dry conditions, handle gently to avoid bruising, control insects that create entry wounds, and improve drainage; cure and store bulbs and roots cool and dry.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

  • CulturalDon't overwater and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid waterlogged soil and overhead watering that splashes bacteria, and rotate away from previously affected fleshy crops to lower disease pressure.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

Onion & garlic white rot

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: yellowing and dieback of leaves; plants pull up easily; fluffy white mold at the base and on bulbs; tiny black poppy-seed sclerotia in the rot; spreads in patches in cool moist soil

Leafhoppers & aster yellows

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: small wedge-shaped insects hop from leaves; stippled or yellowed foliage; with aster yellows: yellow stunted growth, witches-broom of thin shoots, deformed bitter carrots

Leek moth and thrips on leeks

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: whitish windowpane streaks or mottling on leaves (thrips); pale winding mines and holes in leaves; caterpillars tunneling in leaves and stems; distorted rotting foliage from secondary infection

  • CulturalCover and clean upmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Cover plants with insect netting or row cover at planting to keep egg-laying leek moths and thrips off, and remove and destroy badly infested leaves and crop debris. Rotate alliums to a new spot each year to break the pest cycle.

    Source: RHS: Leek moth; RHS: Thrips on Garden Plants

  • OrganicWash off thrips or spray· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For thrips, hose plants down to dislodge them, or apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem product per the label. For leek moth caterpillars, a labeled spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis product applied per the label when young larvae are active can help.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: RHS: Leek moth; RHS: Thrips on Garden Plants

Leek rust

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: bright orange raised pustules on leaves; yellowing around the spots; heavily infected leaves drying and dying back; reduced size of usable shank

  • CulturalImprove airflow and remove infected leavesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Leek rust is a fungal disease favored by damp, crowded conditions and lush growth; space plants well, avoid over-feeding with nitrogen, and remove badly affected leaves. Mild cases usually still produce a usable crop, and rotating alliums each year helps prevent buildup.

    Source: RHS: Leek rust; UMN Extension: Growing leeks

Onion thrips

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: silvery streaks and flecks on leaves; tiny slivers that scatter when disturbed; worst in hot dry weather

  • CulturalOverhead-water and remove debris· every 3 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Thrips dislike moisture; overhead irrigation and weed/debris cleanup reduce them. Reflective mulch deters them on young plants.

    Source: UMN Extension

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap/spinosad - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For heavy pressure a labeled soap or spinosad on a weekly schedule helps. Follow the label.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Cabbage & onion root maggots

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: young brassica or onion transplants wilt and stunt; bluish off-color leaves; white legless maggots in roots; rotting tunneled roots; plants pull up easily