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Watermelon

Citrullus lanatus
Also known as: Garden Watermelon

Watermelon is a fruit in the Cucurbitaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 3-13. Plants reach harvest about 51–109 days after planting.

Varieties

58 from True Leaf Market, High Mowing & Seeds Now · sorted by days to maturity
  • Splendor Hybrid51–69 days

    Vegetable; Annual; hybrid; heat tolerant; seeded

    60 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Splendor F1 Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, hybrid, heat tolerant, seeded, mini watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots and large containers (minimum 7 gal soil). Our first true Sugar Baby ice box/mini melon that develops 7-9 lb fruits. Selected and tested in Northern climates but still well adapted to longer growing areas. ~ 420 Seeds per oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Triple Baby Hybrid55–75 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    Triple Baby F1 Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Citrullus lanatus. F1 Hybrid. Non-GMO. Annual. 65 days to maturity. Seedless. Triple Baby F1 has a beautiful shiny black rind. Its flesh is a deep red color and weighs 7 to 8 pounds. ~ 225 Seeds per oz.

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  • Early Crimson Treat59–81 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; open-pollinated; seeded

    70 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Early Crimson Treat Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, icebox watermelon. Early Crimson Treat Watermelon Seeds. Both light and dark green stripes wrap themselves around this gorgeous melon. With its skin contrasting beautifully with its bright red interior, the Early Crimson Treat watermelon indeed lives up to its name. ~400 seeds/oz.

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  • Golden Midget60–70 days

    Heirloom; Non-GMO; Vegetable; Annual

    60-70 days to maturity. Golden Midget is an early, open-pollinated heirloom watermelon bred by Elwyn Meader and Albert Yeager at the University of New Hampshire in 1959. The small, round fruits weigh only a few pounds and turn golden-yellow when ripe, signaling harvest time, with sweet, salmon-pink flesh. Its short growing season and compact vines make it ideal for northern gardens and small spaces.

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  • Golden Midget (Organic)60–70 days

    Heirloom; Organic; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; open-pollinated; seeded

    60-70 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Golden Midget Organic Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, organic, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, mini watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots and large containers (minimum 7 gal soil). The thin light green rind turns a golden yellow at maturity. ~470 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Tiger Doll Hybrid61–83 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    Tiger Doll F1 Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Citrullus lanatus. F1 Hybrid. Non-GMO. Annual. 72 days to maturity. Light green rind with thin dark tiger strip. Bright red flesh is crisp and extra sweet. About 420 Seeds / Oz.

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  • Baby Doll F164–86 days

    Ships well; Uniform; 10-15 lbs

    Productive, early icebox melon with dark green stripes and crisp, bright yellow flesh. Uniform fruits with sweet flavor topped our yellow melon taste tests. Harvest promptly, as fruit has a tendency to split when ripe in the field. Excellent for direct markets or shipping

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

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  • Bush Sugar Baby (Organic)64–86 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant

    75 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Bush Sugar Baby Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, organic, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, Icebox watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots and large containers (minimum 7 gal soil). Bush Sugar Baby is an early watermelon for those limited on space, but not taste. This perfect little melon has only 3-4' vines and bears two 12 lb melons per plant. Light striping, great blue-black skin with contrasting sweet red, firm flesh.. ~350 seeds/oz.

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  • Sugar Baby64–86 days

    Drought tolerant; 6-12 lbs

    Excellent short-season variety with reliable yields of sweet, juicy melons. The standard for small watermelons. Perfectly rounded fruits range from 7-8.5” in diameter with a solid green rind and deep red flesh. Our strain has been selected for cool growing conditions and high yields.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

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  • Sugarbaby64–86 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Super easy to grow

    Popular and early "Icebox" variety produces uniform 8" round heirloom watermelons - Each fruit weighs appx. 8 - 12 lb - Drought resistant variety - Thrives in hot temperatures and direct sun Days to Maturity | 75 days Best Months to Plant | [April - June] Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around.

    View on Seeds Now
  • Tiger Baby Hybrid (Organic)64–86 days

    Organic; Vegetable; Annual

    Tiger Baby F1 Hybrid Organic Watermelon Seeds. Citrullus lanatus. Organic. F1 Hybrid. Non-GMO. Annual. 75 days to maturity. Hybrid F1, Diploid. Approx. 420 Seeds per ounce.

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  • Blacktail Mountain65–88 days

    OSSI; Early and reliable; Stores up to 2 months; 6-10 lbs

    Our best melon for short, cool seasons with crisp, sweet flesh that rivals hybrids. These solid, dark green fruits boast a vibrant crimson flesh. Plants have proven to be especially prolific producers in our trials fields. Fruits average 8” across. Vines grow as long as 10’. Excellent keeping quality and yields. Harvest just before ripe and melons will finish off in storage. Developed by Glenn Drowns of Sand Hill Preservation Center in Calamus, Iowa.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

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  • Yellow Petite65–78 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; open-pollinated; seeded

    65-78 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus Yellow Petite watermelon seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, mini watermelon. Petite Yellow watermelon is perfect for those with a short growing season. This yellow-orange fleshed melon is lightly sweet, canary yellow and at 6 pounds perfect for the fridge.

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  • Triple Gold Hybrid66–90 days

    Vegetable; Annual; F1 hybrid; seedless

    78 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Triple Gold Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, F1 hybrid, seedless, mini watermelon. Triple Gold Hybrid is a delicious yellow watermelon without seeds. Its flesh is sweet, and the rind is green with dark green stripes. The round fruit weighs 8 to 10 pounds and is perfect for a hot summer day. ~ 225 Seeds per oz.

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  • Crimson Sweet Yellow (Organic)68–92 days

    Heirloom; Organic; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; open-pollinated; seeded

    80 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Crimson Sweet Yellow Organic Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, organic, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Organic Crimson Sweet Yellow watermelon is very similar to Crimson Sweet in appearance, but with yellow flesh. ~400 seeds/oz.

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  • Dixie Queen68–92 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; seeded

    80 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Dixie Queen Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. The Dixie Queen watermelon is popular in the southern United States. Developed in the 1930s making it a popular heirloom. The rind is bright, light green, with dark green stripes. The Fruit is round like a ball. ~325 seeds/oz.

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  • Tom F168–92 days

    High yielding; 5-10 lbs

    Smaller, early melon with dense, flavorful flesh and long shelf life; perfect for taking to market. Beautiful light green fruits with tiger-striped rinds and slightly oblong shape. Flesh is deep pink with excellent, sweet flavor and dense, fine-grained texture. Long shelf life and highest yields of any hybrid melons in our trials with good hollow heart resistance. From our friends at Genesis Seeds.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

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  • Treasure Chest Hybrid68–92 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    Treasure Chest F1 Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Citrullus lanatus. F1 Hybrid. Non-GMO. Annual. 80 days to maturity. Seedless. Treasure Chest F1 is a yellow triploid watermelon with sweet, bright yellow flesh. The rind is light green with dark green stripes. About 500 Seeds / Oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Triple Express Hybrid68–92 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    Triple Express F1 Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Citrullus lanatus. F1 Hybrid. Non-GMO. Annual. 80 days to maturity. Seedless. Triple Express F1 is an early Crimson Sweet triploid, with a firm flesh and high yield. Its flesh is red/pink, with no seed, and delicious! About 225 Seeds / Oz.

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  • Yellow Gem Sweet68–92 days

    Vegetable; Annual; open-pollinated; heat tolerant; seeded

    80 days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Yellow Gem Sweet Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heat tolerant, seeded, icebox watermelon. Now a true yellow Crimson Sweet watermelon. ~ 400 seeds per ounce.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Yellow Gem Sweet (Organic)68–92 days

    Organic; Vegetable; Annual; open-pollinated; heat tolerant; seeded

    80 days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Organic Yellow Gem Sweet Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, Annual, organic, open-pollinated, heat tolerant, seeded, icebox watermelon. A true yellow Crimson Sweet watermelon. ~ 400 Seeds/ounce.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Baby Doll Hybrid70–75 days

    Vegetable; Annual; hybrid; heat tolerant; seeded

    70-75 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Baby Doll F1 hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, hybrid, heat tolerant, seeded, mini watermelon. These warm season watermelons win the race as their oval-shaped canary-yellow fruit will ripen as early as 40 days from their sowing date! As an icebox watermelon variety, these hybrid melons grow 5-10 lbs and produce vines that are less vigorous spreaders than other types. As all watermelons need full sun and adequate room to grow, Yellow Baby Doll Hybrid plants are ideal for gardeners with smaller-to-average sized space. The nectar-sweet fruit of hybrid melons will brighten up your early and mid-summer season, as their non-GMO seeds produce an abundant crop. Pollination is also the secret to growing successful watermelons. Plant marigolds next to your Yellow Baby Doll Hybrids to not only draw in beneficial insects, but to grow a bright-colored garden that wins over any eye! ~450 seeds/oz.

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  • Baby Doll Hybrid (Organic)70–75 days

    Organic; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; hybrid; seeded

    70-75 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Baby Doll F1 Hybrid Organic Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, organic, hybrid, heat tolerant, seeded, mini watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots and large containers (minimum 7 gal soil). These warm season watermelons win the race as their oval-shaped canary-yellow fruit will ripen as early as 40 days from their sowing date! As an icebox watermelon variety, these hybrid melons grow 5-10 lbs and produce vines that are less vigorous spreaders than other types. As all watermelons need full sun and adequate room to grow, Yellow Baby Doll Hybrid plants are ideal for gardeners with smaller-to-average sized space. The nectar-sweet fruit of hybrid melons will brighten up your early and mid-summer season, as their non-GMO seeds produce an abundant crop. Pollination is also the secret to growing successful watermelons. Plant marigolds next to your Yellow Baby Doll Hybrids to not only draw in beneficial insects, but to grow a bright-colored garden that wins over any eye! ~450 seeds/oz.

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  • Cracker Jack F171–95 days

    Seedless; Crimson sweet type; 15-18 lbs

    Resistance: IR: Anthractnose (1); Fusarium Wilt (0,1)

    Seedless watermelon with gorgeous dark rind, outstanding yields and excellent flavor. Fruit are oval-shaped and blocky with firm flesh and a deep red internal color, setting continuously on strong vines. High yields of consistently sized fruit make it an excellent choice for commercial production. Must be planted with a pollinator cultivar companion. Pollinator provided. From our partners at Vitalis Organic Seeds. Citrullus lanatus var. Lanatus

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

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  • AU Producer72–98 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    85 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. AU Producer Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. Originally bred in Alabama, in 1982, as an improved version of the Crimson Sweet. Sweeter and more productive than Crimson Sweet. Fruit is blocky, and round, with bright red flesh, averaging 25-30lbs. ~720 seeds/oz.

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  • Crimson Sweet72–98 days

    Classic sweet flavor; 15-25 lbs

    Quality and reliability in a classic oblong melon with juicy sweet flesh. An excellent variety for gardeners and growers alike, with vibrant red, firm, fine-textured flesh and silver and dark green striping.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

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  • Florida Giant72–98 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Super easy to grow

    The Florida Giant Watermelon plant produces beautiful 45 lb round dark green watermelons - One of the best semi-round watermelons - Delicious bright red flesh Days to Maturity | 85 days Best Months to Plant | [April - June] Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around.

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  • Kleckley's Sweet72–98 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    85 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Kleckley's Sweet Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. Kleckley's Sweet was also called "Monte Cristo" watermelon or "The Wonder Melon". Touted in many catalogs as "The finest and sweetest melon for home use." Kleckley's oblong fruits can reach 25-40 pounds. This watermelon produces a thin, green rind, red flesh, and white seeds. ~260 seeds/oz.

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  • Tom Watson72–98 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Super easy to grow

    The Tom Watson watermelon is an heirloom introduced to the commercial seed trade in 1902 by William A. Watson of Thomson, Georgia. Plants produce excellent yields of large oblong melons around 30-40 lbs with sweet, dark red flesh and a tough rind that made it a favorite shipping variety. A Tom Watson Watermelon Festival is held each August at Hickory Hill in Thomson, Georgia.

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  • Triple Play Hybrid72–98 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    Triple Play F1 Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Citrullus lanatus. F1 Hybrid. Non-GMO. Annual. 85 days to maturity. Seedless. Triple Play is an early hybrid triploid watermelon with a very sweet and bright red flesh. The rind color is light green with narrow dark stripes. Approx. 225 Seeds per ounce.

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  • Triple Treat Hybrid72–98 days

    Vegetable; Annual; F1 Hybrid; Heat Tolerant; Seedless

    85 days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Triple Treat F1 Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, Annual, F1 Hybrid, Heat Tolerant, Seedless, Mini Watermelon. No picnic is complete without Triple Treat! This seedless watermelon is the perfect mini-type with bright red flesh and a crispy texture. Weighs about 8-10 lbs. Approximately 225 Seeds / Ounce.

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  • Charleston Grey74–100 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    Resistance: HR: Anthracnose; Fusarium Wilt

    87 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Charleston Grey Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, organic, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, Picnic watermelon. Resistant to Anthracnose, Fusarium Wilt. Charleston Grey watermelon was introduced in 1954 by the Southeastern Vegetable Breeding Laboratory of Charleston, South Carolina. Charleston Grey produces fruits that are large, light greenish grey, 28-35 lbs., cylindrical-shaped, 22" long by 10 in. across. ~315 seeds/oz.

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  • Sangria Hybrid74–100 days

    Vegetable; Annual; Hybrid

    Resistance: HR: Anthracnose (1); Fusarium Wilt (Race 0,1,2)

    87 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Sangria Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, hybrid, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. Resistant to Anthracnose (1), Fusarium Wilt (Race 0,1,2). Gardeners grow the “Gold Standard” to have ready before Labor Day. This warm-season oval melon can grow just over 20 lbs and is sturdier than other large varieties. As the leader of watermelon hybrids, their Non-GMO seeds develop into fruit sweeter than the Crimson Watermelon. Eat fresh off the plate or made it into a summer wine from a sangria watermelon recipe. ~400 seeds/oz.

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  • Bush Sugar Baby75–85 days

    Heirloom; Fruit; Annual

    75 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Bush Sugar Baby Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, Icebox watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots and large containers (minimum 7 gal soil). Bush Sugar Baby is an early watermelon for those limited on space, but not taste. This perfect little melon has only 3-4' vines and bears two 12 lb melons per plant. Light striping, great blue-black skin with contrasting sweet red, firm flesh.. ~520 seeds/oz.

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  • Peacock Improved75–101 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    88 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Peacock Improved Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. AKA: Peacock Improved Shipper. A popular heirloom watermelon in the southwestern region of the USA. It produces hardy fruits that are particularly well suited to being shipped. About 585 seeds per ounce.

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  • Red Amber F175–101 days

    Seedless; Crimson sweet type; 16-20 lbs

    Resistance: IR: Anthractnose (1); Fusarium Wilt (0,1)

    Seedless, medium-green striped fruits with crisp, dark red interior flesh. Fruit is uniform and oval shaped, averaging 16-20 lbs at harvest. Flesh is firm and juicy with an exceptionally sweet flavor. Plants are resilient, vigorous and high-yielding. An organic, seedless variety with optimal commercial performance. Pollinator provided

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

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  • Sweet Beauty Hybrid75–80 days

    AAS Winner; Vegetable; Annual; hybrid

    75-80 days. Citrullus lanatus. Sweet Beauty Hybrid Watermelon seeds are tender annuals with active vines that spread 10 feet long and can grow 3 feet tall! This hybrid variety falls into the mini size category and is considered a watermelon suitable for serving one to two people. Sweet Beauty Hybrid seeds grow to be only 7 lbs and develop a crispy and almost honey-sweet flavor. This late summer variety has non-GMO seeds and matures faster than other watermelons. These hybrid seeds grow into an oblong shape with a forest-green exterior. In general, the sweet ruby-red fruit of watermelon helps boost heart health and hydration. Summer annuals such as Sweet Beauty Hybrid Watermelons can be ready to serve in 77 days from the sowing date.

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  • All Sweet76–104 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Super easy to grow

    Plant produces good yields of 25 lb watermelons - Has bright red flesh - Perfect for making Watermelon Candy (see how to here) - Extremely flavorful and extra sweet with a tough rind (helps keep it fruit from bruising) - Perfect variety for any sized home garden (even market growers) Days to Maturity | 90 days Best Months to Plant | [April - June] Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around.

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  • Black Diamond76–104 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Super easy to grow

    Watermelon, Black Diamond (100% Heirloom/Non-Hybrid/Non-GMO) Popular large heirloom watermelon with semi-oval shape than can weigh up to 30 lbs. - Dark green, tough rind - Bright red, firm and very sweet flesh - Thick vines provide lots of sunburn protection Day to Maturity | 90 days Best Months to Plant | [April - June] Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around. Follow SeedsNow.com's board Watermelon on Pinterest.

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  • Bush Jubilee76–104 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    90 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Bush Jubilee Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, Icebox watermelon. Vines spread 3-5 ft. Produces watermelons that are about 10-13 lbs. Bush variety of Jubilee Watermelon. Regular Jubilee watermelon produces melons up to 35 lbs and can be well over a 1' long. They have light green skin with dark green stripes. The flesh is red and very sweet. ~225 seeds/oz.

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  • Cal Sweet76–104 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    Cal Sweet is one of the sweetest and most popular watermelon varieties available, a commercial grower favorite that sells well at farmers markets. The oblong fruit has dark green stripes over a lighter green rind with crisp, bright red flesh, typically weighing about 20-25 lbs. Watermelons are heat-loving plants that grow on long vines, so give them plenty of room. Matures in about 90 days.

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  • Cal Sweet Bush AAS76–104 days

    AAS Winner; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; seeded

    90 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Cal Sweet Bush AAS Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, Mini watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots and large containers (minimum 7 gal soil). What a treat it is to grow a bush watermelon on your patio! Any urban gardener can grow fresh watermelons! The next time you think of summer and want to grow your own sweet watermelon, pick up this short-vined, 2019 AAS winner.. ~400 seeds/oz.

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  • Jubilee76–104 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    The Jubilee is a very long shaped watermelon Deep red flesh Grows up to appx. 40 lbs Days to Maturity | 90 days Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around. Follow SeedsNow.com's board Watermelon on Pinterest.

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  • Moon & Stars (Red-flesh)76–104 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    The Moon & Stars Watermelon dark green rind and bright yellow spots. - Yellow spots are very unique and can be small or large in size. - All American classic heirloom watermelon. Deep red flesh. Grows over 40 lbs! Day to Maturity | 90 days Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around. Follow SeedsNow.com's board Watermelon on Pinterest.

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  • Moon & Stars (Yellow-flesh)76–104 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    Moon & Stars is an All-American classic heirloom watermelon with a dark green rind speckled with bright yellow spots that vary from small (the stars) to large (the moon). This yellow-fleshed selection has deep yellow flesh and can grow over 40 lbs. Watermelons are heat-loving plants that grow on long vines, so give them plenty of space to roam. Matures in about 90 days.

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  • Shiny Boy Hybrid (treated)76–104 days

    AAS Winner; Vegetable; Annual; hybrid; heat-tolerant; seeded

    90 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Treated Shiny Boy Hybrid Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, hybrid, heat-tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. 2010 Vegetable AAS Winner. Known to grow in the garden as a generous crop that keeps on giving. This Shiny Boy type has non-GMO seeds and produces a high yield of marble-shaped melons with a green-striped polished rind and bright-red fruit. ~607 seeds/oz. This seed is treated with a fungicide designed to prevent or reduce seed rot in the soil. It does not affect the plant or the produce from the plant. This seed is intended for planting only. Do not eat this seed or use it for oil or animal feed. Keep this seed out of the reach of children. Wash hands after handling.

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  • Tendersweet (Orange-flesh)76–104 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    The Tendersweet Watermelon is a classic heirloom variety prized for its stunning dark orange flesh and exceptional sweetness. These melons grow impressively large—up to 35 lbs—making them perfect for feeding a crowd. Reaching maturity in just 90 days, they thrive in full sun and warm conditions. Plant them with plenty of space to sprawl along their long vines. Ideal for gardeners seeking a reliable, delicious watermelon that delivers consistent flavor and impressive size year after year. The Tendersweet Watermelon is a classic heirloom variety with dark orange flesh. Very sweet and delicious Grows up to 35 lbs! Days to Maturity | 90 days Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around.

    View on Seeds Now
  • Tendersweet Orange76–104 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    Citrullus lanatus (90 days) Yummalicious orange, crisp, sweet, watermelon that is not only colorful, but also intensely tasty.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Striped Klondike Blue Ribbon77–80 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; seeded

    77-80 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Striped Klondike Blue Ribbon Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. First bred in California, these durable plants can withstand slightly cooler summer temperatures and are able to adapt and tolerate sunburn. Although these melons are seeded, the texture of Klondike Striped Blue Ribbon Watermelons is smooth and produces a less fibrous fruit. These heirloom plants can grow up to 30 lb oblong fruits. ~410 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Carolina Cross81–109 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    (Citrullus lanatus) This is a HUGE watermelon variety that can grow up to 200 LBS! - Very flavorful crisp bright red flesh - The rind is striped and resistant to bruising Days to Maturity | 95 days Best Months to Plant | [April - June] Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around. Follow SeedsNow.com's board Watermelon on Pinterest.

    View on Seeds Now
  • Congo81–109 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Super easy to grow

    A 1950 All-America Selections Winner - These Congo watermelon seeds will produce a plant full of 35 lb watermelons - Very tough rind that will resist bruising - Extremely delicious Days to Maturity | 95 days Best Months to Plant | [April - June] Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around. Follow SeedsNow.com's board Watermelon on Pinterest.

    View on Seeds Now
  • Georgia Rattlesnake81–109 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    Has stripes that resemble that of a rattlesnake - hence the name All-time heirloom favorite Grows up to 35 lbs The rind is striped and resistant to bruising Days to Maturity | 95 days Best Months to Plant | [April - June] Watermelons are heat-loving plants that need lots of sun. They grow on a long vine, so make sure to give them plenty of space to roam around. Follow SeedsNow.com's board Watermelon on Pinterest.

    View on Seeds Now
  • Hime Kansen Hybrid81–109 days

    Vegetable; Annual; hybrid; heat tolerant; seeded

    95 days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Non-GMO, hybrid, heat-tolerant, seeded icebox watermelon. This Japanese variety is sized to fit in a refrigerator and has long been a specialty in Japan. It features an extremely thin rind, excellent shipping ability, and a high Brix count of about 12 for sweet flavor.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Moon & Stars (Organic)81–109 days

    Heirloom; Organic; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; seeded

    95 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Organic Moon & Stars Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, organic, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. These medium-sized heirloom plants can grow 25-30 lbs. Organic Moon and Stars Watermelons are known to be among the sweetest in flavor, even though they are larger in size. This majestic heirloom variety is worth the time it takes to grow as your summer watermelon crop. Moon and Stars Watermelon seeds grow into sweet Fuschia-red fruit with a juicy texture and an oval-shaped exterior. ~400 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Golden Honey85–88 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; open-pollinated; seeded

    85-88 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Golden Honey Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Golden Honey is a sweet and sugary treat. This 10 by 12 inch in diameter watermelon is the perfect yellow flesh watermelon. ~400 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Mountain Sweet85–100 days

    Heirloom; Non-GMO; Vegetable; Annual

    85-100 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Mountain Sweet Yellow Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, picnic watermelon. Suitable for growing in garden plots. 2004 Seed Saver Inventory says... "Yellow fleshed version of Mountain Sweet which was popular in the 1840's in markets throughout New Jersey, PA and NY, large striped fruit with deep yellow flesh, high sugar content, sweet and tasty, 20-35 pounds." ~320 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Black Diamond Yellow Belly90–95 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat tolerant; open-pollinated; seeded

    90 - 95 Days to maturity. Citrullus lanatus. Black Diamond Yellow Belly Watermelon Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat tolerant, seeded, giant watermelon. This watermelon has red flesh with a dark blue-black rind and grows to be 30-50 lbs. The rind will turn yellow where it rests on the ground as it ripens. ~400 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Moon and Stars95–100 days

    10-15 lbs

    Extremely popular heirloom with sweet flavor and attractive yellow spots. Dark green rind and foliage are decorated with large yellow spots (moons) and smaller ones (stars). Flesh is dark red with excellent flavor and a thick protective rind. Large, oblong fruits can grow to enormous sizes, up to 40 lbs. Requires warm temperatures to set fruit. Introduced in 1926 by Henderson Seed Company.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting, add 10-14 days if direct seeding. Watermelons are warm-season, tender annuals that require fertile soils with lots of organic matter, moisture and full sun. Seeds germinate when soil has reached 85°F. Harden off by reducing temperature and water. Plant outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Plastic mulch and floating row cover are useful in cool climates. Harvest when tendril by fruit dies back, ground spot turns yellow and blossom end softens slightly. Triploid (seedless) watermelons require a pollinator cultivar companion plant with comparable days to maturity.

    View on High Mowing
Family
Cucurbitaceae
Category
Fruit
Form
Vine
Lifecycle
annual
Zone
3-13
Height
0.5–3 ft
Spread
3–12 ft
Sun
Full sun
Water
Medium

Plan your watermelon planting

Add watermelon to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
51–109 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Keep picking
Crops over several weeks
After harvest
Use within days
Quality eases off after peak
Frost tolerance
Warm-season · to ~45°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Germination
~70%
Typical minimum germination rate

Storing & preserving

Refrigerate ripe fruit; ripen firm fruit at room temperature.

  • Freeze: Freezes well raw; spread on a tray first so pieces stay loose.
  • Preserve: Make jam or water-bath can high-acid fruit.
  • Dry: Dehydrate or air-dry, then store airtight away from light.

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest watermelonPlanting timeline for watermelon, relative to last frost: start indoors from 3 weeks before last frost to 1 week after last frost; grow from 1 week after last frost to 8 weeks after last frost; harvest from 8 weeks after last frost to 17 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowHarvestLast frostTransplant
Start watermelon indoors ~4 weeks before transplanting 1 week after last frost; first harvest 8 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
21-28 days
Outdoor planting
7 to 28 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Pairs well with (1)

  • CowpeaEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsn-fixation, predator-attract

    Cowpea intercropped with cucurbits provides nitrogen via Bradyrhizobium symbiosis and supports populations of generalist predators that reduce cucumber beetle pressure. Documented in southeastern US extension and SARE-funded watermelon trials.

    Region: Southern and mid-Atlantic US.

    Source: S11, SARE

Avoid planting near (2)

  • Common CucumberEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Cucurbit crops share major pests (cucumber beetles, squash bugs, vine borer) and diseases (downy mildew, powdery mildew, bacterial wilt vectored by cucumber beetles). Co-planting different cucurbits in the same bed compounds pressure rather than reducing it.

    Source: S1, S7, UMass Center for Agriculture

  • Common PotatoEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationdisease-host

    Both crops are susceptible to Fusarium and Verticillium soilborne wilt complexes. Extension rotation guidance groups cucurbits and Solanaceae into separate rotation blocks to limit shared soilborne disease build-up.

    Source: S1

Trap crops for this plant (2)

  • Blue Hubbard SquashEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismtrap-crop

    Perimeter plantings of Blue Hubbard (Cucurbita maxima) function as a highly attractive trap crop for striped cucumber beetle and squash bug, intercepting more than 65% of beetles and 90% of squash bugs in replicated USDA-ARS and UVM trials with melon, and allowing border-spray management while protecting the cash crop.

    Timing: Establish Blue Hubbard perimeter 1-2 weeks ahead of cash melons to ensure beetles arrive at the trap first.

    Region: Documented in Northeast, Midwest, and mid-South melon production.

    Source: University of Vermont Extension, UMass Center for Agriculture, USDA ARS

  • Common RadishEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionstrap-crop, pest-deter

    Interplanting radish with cucurbits has been shown to reduce striped cucumber beetle damage in several extension and SARE-funded trials. Radish acts as an alternate feeding host and also flowers can attract beneficials. The effect is partial and context-dependent.

    Timing: Sow radish at the same time as melon transplant to provide cover during the beetle's most damaging early-vine stage.

    Source: SARE, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada

Sources cited

S1
Cornell University Cooperative Extension — vegetable production guides
S11
University of Georgia Cooperative Extension
S14
University of Vermont Extension
S15
UMass Center for Agriculture (UMass Extension)
S18
SARE (Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education)
S20
USDA ARS (Agricultural Research Service) publications
S25
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
S7
University of Minnesota Extension

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators

Protection
  • Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.

    Source: UC IPM

Mulch and water the squash family

Watering
  • Routine careDeep weekly watering· every 1 wk · ~12 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cucurbits are thirsty and shallow-rooted. Water deeply about weekly (more in heat), at the base to keep foliage dry and slow mildew.

    Source: UC ANR

  • Routine careMulch to hold moisturemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Lay straw or leaf mulch once established to even out soil moisture, suppress weeds, and keep fruit off bare soil.

    Source: UC ANR

Plan crop rotation

Rotation
  • Routine careRotate plant families between bedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting the same family in the same bed in consecutive years (aim for a 3+ year gap), grouping crops by family so soilborne diseases and pests that build up don't carry over to the next susceptible crop.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careSequence for soil healthmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Follow heavy feeders like tomatoes and brassicas with legumes or a cover crop to support soil fertility and structure, and keep simple notes each year so you can track where each family grew.

    Source: UMN Extension

Protect the garden from deer

Protection
  • Routine careFence the gardenstrong evidence — extension confidence

    A fence about 8 feet tall and tight to the ground is the most reliable barrier; an outward-angled or double fence, or monofilament line strung at 30 to 36 inches, can also deter deer on smaller beds.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

  • Routine careRotate repellents as a supplement· every 2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Where fencing isn't feasible, apply odor/taste repellents and alternate formulations, reapplying every couple of weeks and after rain; combining repellents with fencing works best.

    Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

Water deeply at fruiting

Watering
  • Routine careProvide steady deep watering during fruiting· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Once plants begin flowering and setting fruit, supply about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week in deep soakings rather than light sprinkles, ideally at the base; even moisture reduces cracking, blossom-end rot, and bitter or misshapen fruit.

    Source: UMN Extension: Tomato disorders; UMN Extension: Growing tomatoes

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Cutworm collars at transplant

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careSet a collar around each new transplantstrong evidence — extension confidence

    When setting out transplants, slip a collar (a toilet-paper tube, paper cup with the bottom cut out, or similar) around each stem and press it a couple inches into the soil so it stands a few inches above ground, blocking cutworms from the stem.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

Floating row cover timing

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Harden off seedlings

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Read: starting seeds indoors

Trellis vining crops

Support

Unusual this time of year.

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your watermelonand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Cucurbit bacterial wilt

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilting of individual leaves then whole vines; wilt with no yellowing at first; plants collapse despite moist soil; cut stem oozes sticky sap that strings out; cucumber beetles present

Gummy Stem Blight / Black Rot (Cucurbits)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: water-soaked stem cankers; amber gummy ooze on stems; tan-to-dark circular leaf lesions with concentric rings; black speck-like fruiting bodies; black rot of fruit

  • CulturalRotate, sanitize, and use clean seedstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use disease-free seed and rotate at least 2 years away from cucurbits, removing and destroying infected vines and fruit since the fungus survives in debris and seed. This is a prevention/management problem, not a cure.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell LIHREC

  • CulturalKeep foliage drystrong evidence — extension confidence

    Switch to drip irrigation and space plants for airflow so leaves dry quickly, since free moisture drives infection.

    Source: UMN Extension; UF/IFAS

Phytophthora blight (root and crown rot)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilting and collapse of peppers or squash; dark water-soaked lesions at the crown or stem base; white cottony growth on infected fruit; root and crown rot; vine and fruit rot after heavy rain or in wet low spots

  • CulturalRemove affected plants at first sign (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Infected plants can't be saved; promptly pull and destroy them at the start of an outbreak to slow spread, and avoid working in beds when wet.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

  • CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterloggingstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Plant on raised beds, never let beds stay saturated, and water with drip rather than flooding, since this water mold thrives in standing water and saturated soil.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

  • CulturalRotate and choose tolerant varietiesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Rotate out of peppers, cucurbits, and tomatoes for at least three years where the disease has occurred, and select tolerant or resistant varieties when available.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables

Phytophthora Fruit & Crown Rot (Cucurbits)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilt and crown collapse; soft water-soaked rot at the crown; large tan-to-salmon soft spots on fruit; white yeast-like mold on rotting fruit; plants dying in wet low spots

  • CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterloggingstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Plant on raised, well-drained beds, avoid low wet spots, and lengthen intervals between irrigations, since this water mold thrives in saturated soil. Once established it is very hard to control, so prevention is key.

    Source: UC IPM; Clemson Extension

  • CulturalRotate and avoid infested fieldsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid sites with a Phytophthora history and rotate to non-host crops (avoid cucurbits, peppers, tomato, eggplant), since the oospores survive in soil for years.

    Source: Clemson Extension; OSU Extension

  • ChemicalApply oomycete-targeted fungicide preventively· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    As part of an integrated program, apply an oomycete-active fungicide (e.g., mefenoxam or phosphonate class) preventively before wet weather, rotating modes of action per the label.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM; MSU Extension

Pickleworm (Southern Cucurbits)

Pestsevere

Symptoms: entry holes in fruit with sawdust-like frass; tunneled squash and cucumber fruit; chewed buds and flowers; caterpillars boring into stems and fruit

  • CulturalPlant early and use trap/less-preferred cropsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    In southern regions plant early to harvest before populations build, prefer less-susceptible types (e.g., butternut), and remove infested fruit promptly, since larvae feed inside the fruit.

    Source: UF/IFAS; LSU AgCenter

  • OrganicTreat early before larvae bore in· every 5 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Scout flowers and apply a Bt (B. thuringiensis kurstaki) product targeting young larvae before they enter fruit, since internal feeders are protected once inside; repeat per the label.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UF/IFAS; UT Extension

  • ChemicalApply insecticide on a tight schedule under heavy pressure· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Where pressure is severe, apply a labeled insecticide (e.g., pyrethroid or spinosyn class) timed to flowering and small larvae, per the label, rotating classes.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UF/IFAS; LSU AgCenter

Root-knot nematodes

Nematodesevere

Symptoms: galls or knots along roots; stunted plants; yellowing and midday wilting that recovers at night; poor vigor despite good care; patchy poor growth in beds

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then rotate (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Root-knot nematodes can't be eradicated from garden soil, so confirm via a county Extension nematode assay and rotate beds to non-hosts or resistant varieties (look for VFN-type resistance in tomato).

    Source: Clemson HGIC; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalPlant suppressive cover/rotation cropsmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    A solid planting of French marigolds grown 2+ months and turned under, or cover crops such as sorghum-sudangrass or cowpea, can lower populations between susceptible crops.

    Source: UF/IFAS; Clemson HGIC

  • CulturalSanitation and organic mattermoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid moving infested soil on tools or transplants, build soil organic matter to support beneficial organisms, and keep plants well watered to help them tolerate root damage.

    Source: UC IPM; Clemson HGIC

Southern blight

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilting in hot weather; yellowing then collapse of whole plant; white fan-like mold mat at the stem base and soil; tan-brown mustard-seed-sized sclerotia near soil line; girdled rotted lower stem

  • CulturalRemove infected plants and surrounding soil (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Once a plant collapses it can't be cured; dig out the plant plus the top few inches of nearby soil containing sclerotia and dispose of it, avoiding spread on tools.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press; UC IPM

  • CulturalBury residue and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Deep-turn soil to bury sclerotia, remove crop debris at season end, and rotate susceptible solanaceous and legume crops with grasses for several seasons.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

  • CulturalAdjust soil pH and plant earlymoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Maintain soil pH at the level recommended for the crop, since the disease is worse in low-pH soils, and time plantings so harvest begins before peak summer heat favors the fungus.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

Squash vine borer

Pestsevere

Symptoms: a vine suddenly wilts at the height of summer; sawdust-like frass at a hole near the stem base; hollowed stem

  • CulturalRow-cover early; bury nodes for backup rootsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cover plants until flowering to block the egg-laying moth, then hand-pollinate or uncover. Mounding soil over vine nodes lets the plant re-root past a borer.

    Source: UMN Extension

White mold (Sclerotinia stem rot)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

  • CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • CulturalOpen the canopy and rotatestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • CulturalWater at the base, not overheadmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

    Source: UC IPM

Angular Leaf Spot (Cucurbits, bacterial)

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: small angular water-soaked leaf spots bounded by veins; spots dry and tear leaving holes; milky bacterial ooze on leaf undersides in humidity; water-soaked spots on fruit

  • CulturalUse clean seed, rotate, avoid working wet plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Plant certified pathogen-free seed, rotate 2-3 years away from cucurbits, and never cultivate or harvest while foliage is wet, since this bacterial disease spreads in water and on hands and tools. Bacterial diseases are managed, not cured.

    Source: UMN Extension; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalAvoid overhead irrigationstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use drip irrigation and space plants for rapid drying, since splashing water spreads the bacteria.

    Source: UMN Extension; Univ. of Illinois Extension

  • ChemicalApply copper preventively in warm humid weather· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    During warm, moist periods that favor disease, apply a fixed-copper bactericide preventively to slow spread, per the label; copper suppresses but does not eliminate the bacterium.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UF/IFAS; PNW Handbooks

Anthracnose fruit rot

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: small sunken circular spots on ripening fruit; spots enlarge with darkened concentric centers; soft rot spreading inward; worse on ripe tomatoes and cucurbit fruit in wet weather

Botrytis gray mold

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

  • CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetnessstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

Cucumber beetle

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: yellow beetles with stripes or spots; chewed leaves and flowers; wilting that follows (bacterial wilt risk)

  • CulturalRow-cover early; clean up debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    These beetles also spread bacterial wilt, so block them with netting on young plants and remove garden debris where they overwinter.

    Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

  • OrganicLabeled insecticide for heavy pressure - label use only· every 1 wk · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If wilt risk is high, a labeled product applied in the evening protects pollinators. Follow the label.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Cornell

Damping-off (seedlings)

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: seedlings flop over and collapse at the soil line; thin water-soaked pinched stem base; fungus gnats or constantly wet mix

  • CulturalDry out, ventilate, sow into clean mixstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use sterile seed-starting mix, bottom-water and let the surface dry between waterings, add airflow, and don't over-sow. Damping-off can't be cured once a seedling collapses.

    Source: UMN Extension: Damping-off

Read: starting seeds indoors

Downy mildew

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: angular yellow patches bounded by leaf veins on top; gray-purple fuzz on the underside; spreads in cool humid weather

  • CulturalSpace, prune, and water at the basestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Improve airflow, remove infected leaves, and keep foliage dry. Resistant cucumber varieties help next season.

    Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

  • ChemicalLabeled downy-mildew fungicide - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    In wet seasons a labeled fungicide on a 7-day schedule slows spread. Follow the label.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

Iron deficiency (interveinal chlorosis)

Deficiencymoderate

Symptoms: yellowing between veins of youngest leaves while veins stay green; new growth pale or nearly white; bleaching and browning of leaf tips in severe cases; symptoms worst on alkaline high-pH soils; older leaves stay greener than new ones

  • CulturalTest and address soil pHstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Iron is present but unavailable in high-pH soils, so test soil pH and, for the affected bed, lower pH toward the crop's preferred range (especially important for acid-loving blueberries) rather than just adding iron.

    Source: UMN Extension; UF/IFAS

  • OrganicUse chelated iron for a quick correction· every 2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    A foliar spray or soil drench of chelated iron can green up new growth per the label; soil-applied ferrous iron quickly oxidizes and becomes unavailable in high-pH soil, so chelate plus pH management works best.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UF/IFAS

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Mosaic virus

Virusmoderate

Symptoms: mottled light-and-dark green leaf patterns; puckered distorted or fern-like leaves; stunted growth; mottled bumpy fruit; spread by aphids and handling

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Potassium deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test firststrong evidence — extension confidence

    Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidancemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Powdery mildew

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: white powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces; starts as spots then spreads; leaves yellow and dry under the coating

  • CulturalImprove airflow + remove worst leavesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cut out the most heavily coated leaves and thin for airflow; avoid wetting foliage late in the day.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicPotassium-bicarbonate or sulfur - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled potassium-bicarbonate or sulfur fungicide weekly per the label. No sulfur within 2 weeks of oil or in high heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Root rot from overwatering / poor drainage

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

Scab (Cucurbits)

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: small sunken corky spots on fruit; gummy amber ooze from fruit lesions; angular pale leaf spots that drop out; cavities and dark velvety mold on fruit lesions

  • CulturalPlant resistant cultivars and rotatestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use scab-resistant cucumber cultivars where available and rotate 2-3 years to non-cucurbit crops, removing crop debris to lower spore carryover.

    Source: UMN Extension; UMass Extension

  • CulturalPromote rapid dryingstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Choose well-drained sites with good air movement, avoid overhead irrigation and dense canopies, and avoid handling plants when wet.

    Source: UMass Extension; Cornell

Slugs & snails

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

  • CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

    Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

  • OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Squash bug

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: bronze/gray shield-shaped bugs at the plant base; bronze egg clusters on leaf undersides; wilting runners

  • CulturalCrush eggs, trap adults, hand-pick· every 3 days · ~4 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Scrape off the coppery egg clusters, lay a board by the base and collect bugs under it each morning. Easiest controlled early.

    Source: UMN Extension: Squash Bug

Stink bugs (brown marmorated and native)

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: cloudy or corky spots on fruit; dimpled or pitted fruit; catfacing on tomatoes; shield-shaped brown or green bugs; barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides

  • CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM Pest Notes

  • CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Thrips on fruiting vegetables

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: silvery or stippled flecking on leaves; black specks of frass; distorted or scarred young leaves and fruit; tiny slender insects in flowers; deformed fruit set

  • CulturalRemove weed and crop reservoirsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Control flowering weeds in and around the garden and remove spent host crops promptly, since thrips build up on these and move onto fruiting vegetables; avoid planting next to onions, garlic, or cereals where thrips numbers spike.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalKeep plants vigorous and rinse foliagemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Water and feed adequately so plants tolerate feeding, and a forceful water spray can knock down populations; reflective mulch can also deter thrips from settling on young plants.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicTreat with spinosad or oil if needed· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If thrips are damaging growing points or fruit, spinosad or insecticidal soap/oil can help per the label; rotate modes of action and avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators and natural enemies.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

Whiteflies

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

  • CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  • OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

Cutworms

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: seedlings cut off at soil line; transplants toppled overnight; wilted clipped plants in a row; chewed stems near ground; gray-brown caterpillars curled in soil

  • CulturalPlace stem collars on transplantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  • CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  • OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Cutworms

Phosphorus deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: stunted plants with dark dull green leaves; reddish or purplish tint on leaves and undersides; delayed maturity and poor fruiting; symptoms worst in cold spring soils; older leaves affected first

  • CulturalCheck soil test and soil temperaturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Purpling in cold spring soils is often temporary, since cold roots can't take up phosphorus that's actually present; warm weather usually resolves it, so confirm a true shortage with a soil test before adding phosphorus.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicAdd phosphorus only if the test calls for itmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If low phosphorus is confirmed, work a phosphorus source into the root zone per the test recommendation, and keep soil pH in range since extreme pH ties up phosphorus.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Edema (oedema)

Disorderlow

Symptoms: small watery blisters or bumps on leaf undersides; corky tan or brown scabby spots on leaves and stems; yellow flecking on upper leaf surface; worse in cool cloudy humid spells; not spreading plant to plant

Magnesium deficiency

Deficiencylow

Symptoms: yellowing between the veins of older leaves; veins stay green (interveinal); common in sandy soils and containers

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then correct· every 2 wks · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Interveinal yellowing on older leaves suggests magnesium. Confirm with a test; if low, a dilute Epsom-salt foliar spray is a short-term fix while you amend the soil.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Nitrogen deficiency

Deficiencylow

Symptoms: oldest leaves uniformly pale yellow; plant pale and slow overall; common in containers and after heavy rain

  • CulturalFeed with balanced fertilizer· every 2 wks · ~4 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a balanced organic fertilizer or fish emulsion; new growth greens up within ~2 weeks. Don't overcorrect.

    Source: UMass Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Poor cucurbit fruit set

Disorderlow

Symptoms: small fruit yellow, shrivel, and drop off; lots of flowers but little fruit; misshapen lopsided fruit; few bees visiting; worse in heat or cool rainy spells

Transplant shock

Disorderlow

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: wilting or drooping right after transplanting; stalled growth for days after setting out; leaf scorch or edge browning on new transplants; temporary yellowing; recovery once roots establish

  • CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • CulturalHarden off and plant gently next timestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

    Source: UMN Extension