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Pepper (Habanero)

Capsicum chinense
Also known as: Habanero, Scotch Bonnet, Ghost Pepper, Bhut Jolokia

Pepper (Habanero) is a vegetable in the Solanaceae family. It grows best in full sun with dry to medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 2-13. Plants reach harvest about 55–129 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.

Varieties

29 from High Mowing, True Leaf Market & Seeds Now · sorted by days to maturity
  • Primero Red F155–75 days

    SHU 70,000; Early ripening; 2-4” fruits

    High yields of large, beautifully red peppers with habanero flavor and one third the heat. One of the earliest ripening habaneros with fruit reaching maturity at the same time as the bell peppers. Can be grown in the ground or in a container. An excellent choice for the pepper lover who wants to enjoy the taste of the habanero without the typical intensity.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting. Peppers are long-season, heat-loving annuals. Start transplants 6-8 weeks before planting date. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 85°F. When growing transplants, maintain 75°F during the day and 65°F at night. Peppers prefer rich, well-drained, loamy soils. Do not over fertilize, as too much nitrogen will prevent fruit set. Encourage plant growth and fruit set with plastic mulch and floating row cover to warm roots and soil. Switch to a light-weight row cover when daytime temperatures reach 75-80°F or when first flowers appear. Remove at temperatures over 85°F as some peppers may abort their flowers in extreme heat. Store peppers at 50°-54°F and 95% relative humidity. Chilling injury occurs below 45°F. Prevent disease and recurrent pest pressure with correct sanitation techniques, crop rotation and cover cropping. SHU = Scoville Heat Units

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  • Magnum68–92 days

    Orange habanero; SHU 210,000; 1-2” fruits

    A typical habanero with a bonnet shape and gorgeous, bright orange color. Uniformity and productivity are top notch, producing loads of shiny, scorching-hot peppers. Plants are tall, well branched, and cold tolerant, ensuring maturity in cooler climates like the Northeast.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting. Peppers are long-season, heat-loving annuals. Start transplants 6-8 weeks before planting date. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 85°F. When growing transplants, maintain 75°F during the day and 65°F at night. Peppers prefer rich, well-drained, loamy soils. Do not over fertilize, as too much nitrogen will prevent fruit set. Encourage plant growth and fruit set with plastic mulch and floating row cover to warm roots and soil. Switch to a light-weight row cover when daytime temperatures reach 75-80°F or when first flowers appear. Remove at temperatures over 85°F as some peppers may abort their flowers in extreme heat. Store peppers at 50°-54°F and 95% relative humidity. Chilling injury occurs below 45°F. Prevent disease and recurrent pest pressure with correct sanitation techniques, crop rotation and cover cropping. SHU = Scoville Heat Units

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  • Devil's Yellow76–104 days

    Container; Vegetable; Annual

    90 Days to maturity. Capsicum chinense. Devils Yellow Hot Pepper Vegetable Seeds. Non-GMO, open-pollinated, hot peppers with extremely hot heat levels. 100,000-350,000 Scoville Heat Units. This habanero type pepper packs some heat with a delightful smoky flavor that makes for a great hot sauce. It produces heavy yields of 1-2 inch long yellow peppers. ~ 8,400 seeds per ounce.

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  • Cienfuegos Orange Hybrid80–89 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    80-89 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Cienfuegos Orange Hybrid Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, F1 hybrid, deer resistant, hot pepper with extremely hot heat levels. 300,000 to 400,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. If you are wanting uniformity, increased yield, and early maturity this is the habanero pepper for you. Its fruits are 1.5 inches by three quarters of an inch. Pepper Cienfuegos Orange Hybrid has a fruity hot flavor and ranges from 300,000 to 400,000 on the Scoville scale. ~4,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Cienfuegos Red Hybrid80–89 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    80-89 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Cienfuegos Red Hybrid Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, F1 hybrid, deer resistant, hot pepper with extremely hot heat levels. 300,000 to 400,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. If you are wanting uniformity, increased yield, and early maturity, this is the habanero pepper for you. Its fruits are 1.5 inches by three quarters of an inch. Pepper Cienfuegos Red Hybrid has a fruity hot flavor and ranges from 300,000 to 400,000 on the Scoville scale. ~4,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Habanero Blend80–90 days

    Container; Vegetable; Annual

    80-90 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Habanero Blend Hot Pepper Seeds. This blend of habanero pepper seeds includes 6 colors for an attractive harvest. Colors include red, orange, yellow, chocolate, green, and peach. Habanero peppers are known for their extra hot heat levels of 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville heat units. Their fruits are typically lantern-shaped with thin walls and a wrinkled, waxy surface. A common ingredient in hot sauces and salsas.

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  • Habanero Mayan Yellow80–89 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    80-89 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Habanero Mayan Yellow Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, high yielding, deer resistant, hot pepper with extra hot heat levels. 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. This elongated red habanero pepper has the same fruitiness and hot combination coveted by habanero lovers. The fruit is very attractive and tasty. Typically this type of hot pepper is used as a seasoning pepper since the scoville units are slightly lower than their habanero cousins. Plants are up to 36 inches tall and sturdy yellow pendant fruits are covered well from sunburn. The name gives away the origin (central Mexico) of the pepper selection. ~5,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Jamaican Yellow Habanero80–89 days

    Container; Vegetable; Annual

    80-89 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Jamaican Yellow Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, high yielding, deer resistant, heat tolerant, drought tolerant, hot pepper with extra hot heat levels. 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. The Jamaican habanero pepper is sometimes known as the Mushroom Chile Pepper because of its small and distorted 1 inch tall baby bella mushroom appearance. The Yellow Jamaican habanero pepper is relatively tame for habaneros. ~5,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Mushroom Red80–95 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    80-95 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Mushroom Red Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, deer resistant, hot pepper with hot heat levels. 25,000 to 35,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. A rare variety of hot pepper thought to have first originated in Jamaica. Known for both their bright red color as well as the distinctive mushroom shape that gives them their name, Mushroom Red pepper seeds are related to the more common habanero pepper. Mushroom Red hot pepper is extremely hot with a touch of sweetness. Mushroom Red hot peppers are dried and used for extra hot chili powders, but also a good choice for hot sauces. ~5000 seeds/oz.

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  • Habanero, Chocolate85–105 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 1"-2"; Scoville (SHU): 400,00-600,000/extra hot

    The Chocolate Habanero Pepper is a prolific plant that produces lots of 2" waxy nuggets that ripen from dark green to reddish brown. Twice as hot as other Habanero peppers, with a distinct flavor. First, a smoky earthiness drives up, then a fruity sweetness hops in the car, and soon you’re off at 600,000 SHUs, entering the on ramp to Ghost Pepper territory. Use it to spice up everything from margaritas to mango salsa to marinated brisket, and yes, even chocolate. Very high yields Smoky, earthy, sweet flavor Hot enough to make a leopard lose its spots Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 1"-2"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 400,00-600,000/extra hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 10-30 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 5.0-6.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 85-105 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Habanero, Lemon85–105 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 1"-2"; Scoville (SHU): 200,000-300,000/very hot

    Yellow like the sun and hot as blazes describes the Lemon Habanero Pepper. If that scares you, there’s a Yellow Banana Pepper and a cup of milk waiting for you in the nursery. Everyone else can pull up a chair to the big kids’ table. This prolific plant produces lots of 2" wrinkled, waxy fruits that ripen from bright green to bright yellow to smoky golden yellow. The fruity fragrance draws you in, the citrusy flavor sits you down, and then 200,000-300,000 Scoville heat units (SHUs) of pure heat blaze across your tongue. Where’d you say that milk is again? Very high yields Fruity and citrusy Hot enough to make a cow go meow Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 1"-2"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 200,000-300,000/very hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 10-30 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 5.0-6.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 85-105 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Habanero, Orange85–105 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 1"-2"; Scoville (SHU): 200,000-300,000/very hot

    The Orange Habanero Pepper is the kind of pepper that makes you want to check your garden several times a day to see how orange it can get. Very. The kind of pepper that makes you wonder if you can add it to a dish with all orange ingredients like chorizo, carrots, and sweet potatoes. Yes. Or how about with apricots and cantaloupe? Not as hot as other habanero peppers. Very high yields Fruity, citrusy, smoky flavor Hot enough to make a lion yelp Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 1"-2"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 200,000-300,000/very hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 10-30 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 5.0-6.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 85-105 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Habanero, Red Caribbean85–105 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 1"-2"; Scoville (SHU): 300,000-450,000/extra hot

    The sweet, citrusy flavor, tropical fragrance, and lush green foliage of the Red Caribbean Habanero will remind you of a beach vacation. And so will the searing heat! Produces loads of small 1"-2" wrinkled fruits that twinkle in colors ranging from key lime green to sunrise yellow to sunset orange to sunburn red. Use it to make some haba-haba salsa, broiled halibut with charred pepper cream sauce, or spicy pineapple ice cream. Very high yields Sweet, citrusy flavor Hot enough to make a monkey cough Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 1"-2"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 300,000-450,000/extra hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 10-30 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 5.0-6.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 85-105 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Habanero, White85–105 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 1"-2"; Scoville (SHU): 100,000-300,000/very hot

    The White Habanero Pepper produces lots of small 1"-2" fruits, all of them infused with smoky, sweet flavor and a heat like white lightning. These little thunderbolts start out green and ripen to a glossy pearl. Use them to wake up a pot of white bean chicken chili or add a flash of fire to a jar of mayonnaise. Very high yields Sweet, citrusy flavor Hot enough to make a monkey cough Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 1"-2"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 100,000-300,000/very hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 10-30 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 5.0-6.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 85-105 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Scotch Bonnet Orange85–115 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual; heat-tolerant; deer-resistant

    100 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Orange Scotch Bonnet Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, heat-tolerant, deer-resistant hot pepper with extra hot heat levels. 100,000-200,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. The orange scotch bonnet is rare and not as well-known as the red scotch bonnet. The flavor is hot with fruity-smoking undertones. Many say it's hotter than the habanero. Enough to make your lips go numb. This pepper is often associated with Jamaican cuisine, and the flavor profile is ideal for jerk seasoning and similar dishes. If you're looking to add a pepper to your garden that's both fiery and flavorful, the Orange Scotch Bonnet is a fantastic choice. Its vibrant color, distinctive shape, and unique taste make it a standout in any culinary garden. ~5000 seeds/oz.

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  • Caribbean Blend90–110 days

    Container; Vegetable; Annual

    60-69 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Caribbean Blend Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, high yielding, deer resistant, heat tolerant, drought tolerant, hot pepper with extra hot heat levels. 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. Caribbean Blend is a mixture of four habanero peppers that will please any spice loving gardener. Grow this blend for your own habanero heaven. If you love spice, then this is the blend for you. ~5,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Devil's Tongue, Yellow90–110 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 2"-3"; Scoville (SHU): 300,000-500,000/extra hot

    The Yellow Devil’s Tongue pepper plants produce legions of 2"-3" tapered fruits that wrinkle and ripen from light green to bright yellow to golden yellow, and have a sweet, citrusy flavor. If you’re tempted to set your own tongue ablaze and have idle hands, push up some daisies and plant this pepper. Makes a scorching hot sauce or wicked pickles. High yields Sweet, citrusy flavor Harvest any color Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 2"-3"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 300,000-500,000/extra hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 7-21 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 6.0-7.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 90-110 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Ghost Chili/Bhut Jolokia90–110 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 2"-3"; Scoville (SHU): 800,000-1,000,000!/smear-it-on-a-fence-to repel-wild-elephants HOT!

    The Ghost Chili Pepper (Bhut Jolokia) may look like a little wrinkled whoopee cushion, but this pepper is no joke. Native to India, it’s one of the hottest peppers in the world. This 2"-3" conical fruit ripens from green to orange to red, with a sweet, fruity flavor that you’ll be able to taste for about 30-45 seconds until the heat creeps in and lights your mouth on fire. And then it gets really hot for 10-15 minutes, finally subsiding after 30-40 minutes. Take care when handling, as the thin skin tears easily.

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 2"-3"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 800,000-1,000,000!/smear-it-on-a-fence-to repel-wild-elephants HOT!|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 7-28 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 6.0-7.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 90-110 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Habanada90–100 days

    Habanero flavor with no heat; 2-3” fruits

    Tangerine-orange fruits featuring the brilliant floral flavor of a habanero pepper without the heat. A breeding triumph of Michael Mazourek from Cornell University, this beautiful, specialty pepper brings all the complexity and sweetness of a habanero pepper but has no kick. This variety has been selected and perfected for over a decade and is sure to become a favorite of market growers, chefs and adventurous home cooks for its unique applications. Plants are prolific, heavy producers. For best germination, consider starting plants on a heat mat in spring. Capsicum chinese.

    Growing notes: Days to maturity are from transplanting. Peppers are long-season, heat-loving annuals. Start transplants 6-8 weeks before planting date. Optimal soil temperature for germination is 85°F. When growing transplants, maintain 75°F during the day and 65°F at night. Peppers prefer rich, well-drained, loamy soils. Do not over fertilize, as too much nitrogen will prevent fruit set. Encourage plant growth and fruit set with plastic mulch and floating row cover to warm roots and soil. Switch to a light-weight row cover when daytime temperatures reach 75-80°F or when first flowers appear. Remove at temperatures over 85°F as some peppers may abort their flowers in extreme heat. Store peppers at 50°-54°F and 95% relative humidity. Chilling injury occurs below 45°F. Prevent disease and recurrent pest pressure with correct sanitation techniques, crop rotation and cover cropping. SHU = Scoville Heat Units

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  • Jamaican Red90–100 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    90-100 Days to maturity. Capsicum chinense. Jamaican Red Hot Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, open-pollinated, heirloom, hot pepper seeds with extra hot heat levels. 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. This spicy pepper offers a smoky flavor that makes for a great hot sauce, salsa, or pickled pepper. Comparative to habaneros, but with a sweet flavor profile. ~5,800 seeds per ounce.

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  • Scotch Bonnet, Red90–120 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 1"-2"; Scoville (SHU): 100,000-350,000/hot

    The Red Scotch Bonnet Pepper is so named because its defined lobes resemble a Scotsman’s tam o’ shanter hat. Also called the Caribbean Red Pepper, the stout little fruit is sweeter and fruitier than its cousin, the Habanero, and hot enough to make a bird fly north for the winter. The plant puts out loads of 1"-2" green waxy fruits with thin skin that ripen through yellow, orange, and red. Its extreme heat and unique flavor is traditionally used in Caribbean hot sauce and jerk seasoning, but will be just as tasty and burn just as hot in any of your recipes. High yields Fresh, fruity flavor Harvest any color Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 1"-2"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 100,000-350,000/hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 7-21 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 6.0-7.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 90-120 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Scotch Bonnet, Yellow90–120 days

    Can tolerate hot temperatures; Direct sow; Grows well in full sun; Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Start indoors; Super easy to grow; Plant support: Tomato cage or stake; Pepper length: 1"-2"; Scoville (SHU): 100,000-350,000/hot

    If you’ve ever wondered if the sun has a flavor, the Yellow Scotch Bonnet Pepper is your answer. This deeply lobed fruit that resembles the folds of a Scottish cap is sweet and fruity, and hot enough to break a wild horse. The generous plant produces 1"-2" fruits that ripen from green to yellow to yellower. This sunny little pepper is a key ingredient in Jamaican foods for unique flavor and scorching heat, and can easily ignite all of your recipes. High yields Sweet, fruity flavor Harvest any color Good for containers

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Capsicum chinense|Pepper length: 1"-2"|Scoville heat units (SHU): 100,000-350,000/hot|Plant support: Tomato cage or stake|Depth to plant seeds: .25" deep|Spacing between plants: 18"-24" apart|Spacing between rows: 24"-36" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 7-21 days|Germination soil temps: 75F-85F|Soil needs: 6.0-7.0 pH|Sun needs: Full sun|Frost hardy: No|Planting season: Spring, summer|# of plants per sq. ft.: Appx. 1 plant per sq. ft|Days to maturity: 90-120 days|Good companion plants: Basil, Carrot, Cucumber, Eggplant, Okra, Rosemary, Sage, Squash, Tomato

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  • Small Yellow Cherry90–99 days

    Vegetable; Annual

    90-99 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Small Yellow Cherry Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, deer resistant, hot pepper with extra hot heat levels. 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. These mini-sized habaneros pack the same fruity flavor and fiery heat as their larger counterparts. They’re perfect for making hot sauce or adding some kick to your salsa! ~5,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Habanero Caribbean Red110–119 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    110-119 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Caribbean Red Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, high-yielding, deer-resistant, heat-tolerant, drought-tolerant hot pepper with extra-hot heat levels. 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. Amazing peppers that ripen from lime-green to bright red. These little powerhouses of heat also have a citrusy, slightly smoky flavor that makes them ideal for hot sauce recipes. Caribbean Red Habanero pepper plants grow to a height of approximately 30 inches and are a good candidate for growing in pots and raised beds as well as in rows. ~6,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Habanero Caribbean Red (Clearance)110–119 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    49% Germination - Non-refundable clearance seeds. 110-119 Days to maturity. Habanero Caribbean Red Pepper Seeds. Amazing peppers that ripen from lime-green to bright red. These little powerhouses of heat also have a citrusy, slightly smoky flavor, making them ideal for hot sauce recipes. Caribbean Red Habanero pepper plants grow to a height of approximately 30 inches and are a good candidate for growing in pots and raised beds as well as in rows. These clearance Habanero Caribbean Red Pepper seeds are 6% below germination standards. Approx. 6,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Habanero Caribbean Red (Organic)110–119 days

    Heirloom; Organic; Container; Vegetable; Annual

    110-119 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Caribbean Red Organic Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, organic, open-pollinated, heirloom, high yielding, deer resistant, heat tolerant, drought tolerant, hot type pepper with extra hot heat levels. 100,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. Amazing peppers that ripen from lime-green to bright red. These little powerhouses of heat also have a citrusy, slightly smoky flavor that makes them ideal for hot sauce recipes. Caribbean Red Habanero pepper plants grow to a height of approximately 30" and are a good candidate for growing in pots and raised beds as well as in rows. These Caribbean Red Habanero seeds are produced by Mountain Valley Seed Company, a small, family-owned seed company offering premium-quality vegetable seeds. ~6,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Habanero Caribbean Yellow110–119 days

    Heirloom; Vegetable; Annual

    110-119 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Caribbean Yellow Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, deer resistant, hot pepper with extremely hot heat levels. 400,000 to 500,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. The Caribbean Yellow Habanero Pepper is a fiery hot pepper, originating from the Yucatan region of Mexico, now prevalent in the Caribbean and North America. Known for its intense heat of 400,000 to 500,000 Scoville Units, it produces small, vibrant yellow fruits that are about an inch and a half in length. ~6,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Wicked Ghost Hybrid110–119 days

    Vegetable; Annual; F1 hybrid; deer resistant

    110-119 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Wicked Ghost Hybrid Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, F1 hybrid, deer resistant, hot pepper with extremely hot heat levels. 700,000 to 900,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. The Wicked Ghost Hybrid Pepper is a hybrid of the infamous Ghost pepper, known for its extreme heat. This pepper matures early and produces high yields of 2.5-inch long wrinkled Habanero peppers. With a Scoville rating of over 800,000 units, it turns from green to deep red when mature, offering a wickedly hot experience for spice lovers. ~4,000 seeds/oz.

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  • Bhut Jolokia Ghost120–129 days

    Heirloom; Container; Vegetable; Annual

    120-129 Days to maturity (from transplant). Capsicum chinense. Bhut Jolokia Ghost Pepper Seeds. Non-GMO, annual, open-pollinated, heirloom, deer resistant, heat tolerant, drought tolerant, hot pepper with extremely hot heat levels. 855,000 to 1,040,000 Scoville Heat Units. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. Bhut Jolokia Ghost Pepper seeds are not for the faint of tongue! This pepper is one of the hottest out there, second to the Scorpion Ghost Pepper. ~4,000 seeds/oz.

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Family
Solanaceae
Category
Vegetable
Form
Bush
Lifecycle
annual
Zone
2-13
Height
1–4 ft
Spread
1–2 ft
Sun
Full sun

Plant spacing

1 plant per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: one pepper (habanero) fills a 1-foot square, spaced 12 inches from its neighbors.
1 plant per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space pepper (habanero) about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Dry to medium

Plan your pepper (habanero) planting

Add pepper (habanero) to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
55–129 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Keep picking
Crops over several weeks
After harvest
Use within days
Quality eases off after peak
Frost tolerance
Warm-season · to ~50°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Germination
~55%
Typical minimum germination rate

Storing & preserving

Refrigerate for a week or two.

  • Freeze: Freezes well raw; spread on a tray first so pieces stay loose.
  • Dry: Dehydrate or air-dry, then store airtight away from light.
  • Pickle: Pickle or can (hot peppers dry especially well).

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest pepper (habanero)Planting timeline for pepper (habanero), relative to last frost: start indoors from 10 weeks before last frost to 2 weeks after last frost; grow from 2 weeks after last frost to 10 weeks after last frost; harvest from 10 weeks after last frost to 20 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowHarvestLast frostTransplant
Start pepper (habanero) indoors ~12 weeks before transplanting 2 weeks after last frost; first harvest 10 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
56-84 days
Outdoor planting
14 to 28 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Pairs well with (3)

  • French MarigoldEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter

    Tagetes patula suppresses plant-parasitic nematodes via root thiophenes (alpha-terthienyl), reducing Meloidogyne pressure on pepper roots. Tagetes patula releases alpha-terthienyl and other thiophenes from roots with documented suppression of plant-parasitic nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.), to which pepper is susceptible. French marigolds intercropped with pepper also support generalist predators.

    Timing: Strongest effect from a full-season marigold cover the prior year.

    Region: Most useful in warm regions with established root-knot nematode populations.

    Source: S1, UC IPM

  • Common BeanEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationn-fixation

    Bush beans interplanted around peppers contribute modest residual nitrogen as nodules and residues break down, and the relatively short bean canopy does not over-shade pepper. Benefit is primarily realized later in the season or to the following crop.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Sweet BasilEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter, pollinator-attract

    Companion interactions equivalent to other domesticated Capsicum spp.; see sweet-bell-pepper / hot-pepper entries for full data. Companion interactions for cayenne are equivalent to other Capsicum annuum cultivars; see common-bell-pepper / hot-pepper entries for full data. Basil's eugenol and linalool volatiles have documented deterrent activity against thrips, aphids and whiteflies in lab assays. Hot pepper companion interactions mirror those of sweet bell pepper since both are Capsicum annuum. Basil's volatile oils deter several pepper pests and basil flowers attract pollinators and parasitoids. Basil's volatile oils (eugenol, linalool, methyl chavicol) have documented deterrent activity against thrips, aphids, and whiteflies in laboratory bioassays and some field trials. Basil flowers also attract bees and parasitic wasps that support pepper pollination and parasitism of pepper pests. Extension consensus supports interplanting but treats yield-boost claims cautiously. Companion interactions equivalent to other domesticated Capsicum spp.; see sweet-bell-pepper / hot-pepper entries.

    Source: S7, Bekele & Hassanali, 2001

Avoid planting near (4)

  • Black WalnutEvidence tier A: Peer-reviewed studies in US/Canada production conditions with a clear mechanismallelopathy-negative

    Juglone produced by Juglans nigra roots is documented to cause wilting, stunting and death in Solanaceae crops including pepper. Toxic effects extend to roughly the dripline plus a buffer; raised beds with root barriers are the standard mitigation.

    Region: Anywhere black walnut is established in the landscape (eastern and midwestern US, southern Canada).

    Source: S5, S8, S10

  • Common TomatoEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Shares Solanaceae disease and pest complex with tomato. Group in rotation but do not interplant in adjacent rows. Cayenne shares the full Solanaceae disease and pest complex with tomato and potato (Phytophthora, Verticillium, tobacco mosaic virus, Colorado potato beetle, hornworms). Treat cayenne the same as bell/hot pepper in spacing and rotation. Hot pepper shares Solanaceae disease and pest complex with tomato (bacterial spot, Phytophthora, hornworms, aphids). Group with tomato in rotation but do not alternate them in adjacent rows year-on-year. Companion interactions equivalent to other domesticated Capsicum spp.; rocoto shares the Solanaceae disease/pest complex with tomato. Note rocoto requires cooler summer nights than other peppers, so it is grown at small scale in coastal Pacific Northwest and high elevation only. Peppers and tomatoes are both in Solanaceae and share major diseases (Phytophthora capsici, Verticillium wilt, bacterial spot, several mosaic viruses) and pests (aphids, flea beetles). Extension rotation guidance advises grouping Solanaceae but rotating the entire group off the bed for 3-4 years rather than alternating tomato and pepper in adjacent rows. Shares Solanaceae disease/pest complex with tomato.

    Region: Limited US production: Pacific Northwest, high-elevation regions.

    Source: S4, S7, University of Maryland Extension

  • Sweet PotatoEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Same rationale as tomato: shared root-knot nematode and TSWV host range with Solanaceae.

    Source: S11, NC State Extension

  • Sweet FennelEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationallelopathy-negative

    Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) releases allelochemicals (anethole and related compounds) reported to inhibit growth of multiple vegetables, with peppers among the commonly cited sensitive crops in extension companion-planting summaries.

    Source: S7

Sources cited

S1
Cornell University Cooperative Extension — vegetable production guides
S10
University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension
S11
University of Georgia Cooperative Extension
S12
NC State Extension
S28
Bekele & Hassanali, 2001 — basil volatile bioassay
S3
UC IPM (University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources)
S4
Oregon State University Extension Service
S5
Michigan State University Extension
S7
University of Minnesota Extension
S8
Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
S9
University of Maryland Extension — Home & Garden Info Center

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators

Protection
  • Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.

    Source: UC IPM

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Plan crop rotation

Rotation
  • Routine careRotate plant families between bedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting the same family in the same bed in consecutive years (aim for a 3+ year gap), grouping crops by family so soilborne diseases and pests that build up don't carry over to the next susceptible crop.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careSequence for soil healthmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Follow heavy feeders like tomatoes and brassicas with legumes or a cover crop to support soil fertility and structure, and keep simple notes each year so you can track where each family grew.

    Source: UMN Extension

Protect the garden from deer

Protection
  • Routine careFence the gardenstrong evidence — extension confidence

    A fence about 8 feet tall and tight to the ground is the most reliable barrier; an outward-angled or double fence, or monofilament line strung at 30 to 36 inches, can also deter deer on smaller beds.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

  • Routine careRotate repellents as a supplement· every 2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Where fencing isn't feasible, apply odor/taste repellents and alternate formulations, reapplying every couple of weeks and after rain; combining repellents with fencing works best.

    Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

Water deeply at fruiting

Watering
  • Routine careProvide steady deep watering during fruiting· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Once plants begin flowering and setting fruit, supply about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week in deep soakings rather than light sprinkles, ideally at the base; even moisture reduces cracking, blossom-end rot, and bitter or misshapen fruit.

    Source: UMN Extension: Tomato disorders; UMN Extension: Growing tomatoes

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Cutworm collars at transplant

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careSet a collar around each new transplantstrong evidence — extension confidence

    When setting out transplants, slip a collar (a toilet-paper tube, paper cup with the bottom cut out, or similar) around each stem and press it a couple inches into the soil so it stands a few inches above ground, blocking cutworms from the stem.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

Harden off seedlings

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Read: starting seeds indoors

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your pepper (habanero)and we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Bacterial soft rot

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: mushy water-soaked decay of fleshy tissue; slimy soft rot of heads, bulbs, roots, or fruit; foul odor from rotting tissue; rapid collapse after wounding or in warm wet conditions; rot spreading in storage

  • CulturalRemove rotting plants and produce (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Soft rot can't be cured once tissue breaks down; promptly remove and discard affected plants and produce so the bacteria don't spread to neighbors or other stored vegetables.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

  • CulturalAvoid wounds and excess moisturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Harvest in dry conditions, handle gently to avoid bruising, control insects that create entry wounds, and improve drainage; cure and store bulbs and roots cool and dry.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

  • CulturalDon't overwater and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid waterlogged soil and overhead watering that splashes bacteria, and rotate away from previously affected fleshy crops to lower disease pressure.

    Source: Cornell NYS IPM

Fusarium / Verticillium wilt

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: wilting that doesn't recover overnight; yellowing climbs one side or one branch first; brown streaking inside a cut stem

  • CulturalRemove the plant; rotate and choose resistant varietiesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    There is no cure once a plant is infected. Pull it, avoid planting the same family there for 3-4 years, and grow V/F-resistance-coded varieties next season.

    Source: UMN Extension: Tomato Wilts

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Late blight

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: large greasy gray-green blotches on leaves; white fuzzy growth on undersides in damp weather; brown firm rot on fruit/tubers; spreads fast in cool wet spells

  • CulturalRemove and bag infected plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Late blight is highly contagious and can wipe out a planting in days. Pull and bag (don't compost) symptomatic plants to protect neighbors and nearby gardens.

    Source: Cornell: Late Blight

Phytophthora blight (root and crown rot)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilting and collapse of peppers or squash; dark water-soaked lesions at the crown or stem base; white cottony growth on infected fruit; root and crown rot; vine and fruit rot after heavy rain or in wet low spots

  • CulturalRemove affected plants at first sign (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Infected plants can't be saved; promptly pull and destroy them at the start of an outbreak to slow spread, and avoid working in beds when wet.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

  • CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterloggingstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Plant on raised beds, never let beds stay saturated, and water with drip rather than flooding, since this water mold thrives in standing water and saturated soil.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

  • CulturalRotate and choose tolerant varietiesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Rotate out of peppers, cucurbits, and tomatoes for at least three years where the disease has occurred, and select tolerant or resistant varieties when available.

    Source: Cornell Vegetables

Root-knot nematodes

Nematodesevere

Symptoms: galls or knots along roots; stunted plants; yellowing and midday wilting that recovers at night; poor vigor despite good care; patchy poor growth in beds

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then rotate (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Root-knot nematodes can't be eradicated from garden soil, so confirm via a county Extension nematode assay and rotate beds to non-hosts or resistant varieties (look for VFN-type resistance in tomato).

    Source: Clemson HGIC; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalPlant suppressive cover/rotation cropsmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    A solid planting of French marigolds grown 2+ months and turned under, or cover crops such as sorghum-sudangrass or cowpea, can lower populations between susceptible crops.

    Source: UF/IFAS; Clemson HGIC

  • CulturalSanitation and organic mattermoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid moving infested soil on tools or transplants, build soil organic matter to support beneficial organisms, and keep plants well watered to help them tolerate root damage.

    Source: UC IPM; Clemson HGIC

Southern blight

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: sudden wilting in hot weather; yellowing then collapse of whole plant; white fan-like mold mat at the stem base and soil; tan-brown mustard-seed-sized sclerotia near soil line; girdled rotted lower stem

  • CulturalRemove infected plants and surrounding soil (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    Once a plant collapses it can't be cured; dig out the plant plus the top few inches of nearby soil containing sclerotia and dispose of it, avoiding spread on tools.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press; UC IPM

  • CulturalBury residue and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Deep-turn soil to bury sclerotia, remove crop debris at season end, and rotate susceptible solanaceous and legume crops with grasses for several seasons.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

  • CulturalAdjust soil pH and plant earlymoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Maintain soil pH at the level recommended for the crop, since the disease is worse in low-pH soils, and time plantings so harvest begins before peak summer heat favors the fungus.

    Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

Tomato spotted wilt virus

Virussevere

Symptoms: bronzing or purpling of young leaves; ringspots and concentric rings on leaves and fruit; one-sided or stunted growth; dark streaks on stems; mottled or blotchy ripening fruit

  • CulturalRemove infected plants (cannot be cured)strong evidence — extension confidence

    There is no cure once a plant is infected, so promptly pull and dispose of symptomatic plants to reduce the virus reservoir that thrips spread to healthy plants.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • CulturalStart clean and control weeds and thripsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use virus- and thrips-free transplants, choose resistant varieties (Sw-5 tomatoes, Tsw peppers) where available, and control weeds around the garden that harbor both virus and thrips vectors.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

White mold (Sclerotinia stem rot)

Diseasesevere

Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

  • CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence

    There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • CulturalOpen the canopy and rotatestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • CulturalWater at the base, not overheadmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

    Source: UC IPM

Blister beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: swarms of elongated soft-bodied beetles; rapid defoliation of leaves and flowers; gray, black, or striped beetles clustered on plants; skeletonized foliage on tomatoes and beans

  • CulturalHand-pick wearing gloves· every 2 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wear gloves (these beetles release a blistering fluid) and knock beetles into soapy water, or use row cover ahead of swarms; their larvae eat grasshopper eggs, so tolerate light feeding when you can.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicSpot-treat heavy swarms· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If a large swarm threatens a planting, a pyrethrin or other labeled insecticide can knock them back per the label; avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Missouri Botanical Garden

Botrytis gray mold

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

  • CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetnessstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

Damping-off (seedlings)

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: seedlings flop over and collapse at the soil line; thin water-soaked pinched stem base; fungus gnats or constantly wet mix

  • CulturalDry out, ventilate, sow into clean mixstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Use sterile seed-starting mix, bottom-water and let the surface dry between waterings, add airflow, and don't over-sow. Damping-off can't be cured once a seedling collapses.

    Source: UMN Extension: Damping-off

Read: starting seeds indoors

Early blight

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: yellow leaves with dark concentric-ring (bullseye) spots; spotting marches up from the bottom; oldest/lowest leaves first

  • CulturalRemove affected lower leavesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off spotted leaves into the trash (not compost). Mulch heavily to stop soil splash and water at the base.

    Source: UMass Extension

  • CulturalPrune for airflowstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Thin crowded interior foliage so leaves dry quickly after rain or dew.

    Source: UMass Extension

  • ChemicalCopper - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Only if established and spreading. Apply per label every 7-10 days; follow rates and pre-harvest intervals.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Herbicide drift damage (growth-regulator)

Disordermoderate

Symptoms: cupped, curled, or strap-like distorted new leaves; twisted stems and petioles; parallel veins on narrowed young leaves; stunting and delayed fruiting; symptoms appearing on new growth days after a nearby spray

  • CulturalIdentify the source and protect future plantingsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Growth-regulator herbicides like 2,4-D and dicamba cause this distortion via drift or contaminated sprayers and mulch; identify and stop the source, and never use a sprayer that previously held herbicide on the garden.

    Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

  • CulturalSupport recovery if exposure was lightmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Plants only lightly exposed (not directly sprayed) often outgrow the damage; keep them watered and lightly fed so they can push out normal new growth, though fruiting may be delayed.

    Source: UMN Extension

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Potassium deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test firststrong evidence — extension confidence

    Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidancemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Root rot from overwatering / poor drainage

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Stink bugs (brown marmorated and native)

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: cloudy or corky spots on fruit; dimpled or pitted fruit; catfacing on tomatoes; shield-shaped brown or green bugs; barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides

  • CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM Pest Notes

  • CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.

    Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

  • OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Thrips on fruiting vegetables

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: silvery or stippled flecking on leaves; black specks of frass; distorted or scarred young leaves and fruit; tiny slender insects in flowers; deformed fruit set

  • CulturalRemove weed and crop reservoirsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Control flowering weeds in and around the garden and remove spent host crops promptly, since thrips build up on these and move onto fruiting vegetables; avoid planting next to onions, garlic, or cereals where thrips numbers spike.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

  • CulturalKeep plants vigorous and rinse foliagemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Water and feed adequately so plants tolerate feeding, and a forceful water spray can knock down populations; reflective mulch can also deter thrips from settling on young plants.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicTreat with spinosad or oil if needed· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If thrips are damaging growing points or fruit, spinosad or insecticidal soap/oil can help per the label; rotate modes of action and avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators and natural enemies.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

Tomato hornworm

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: large green caterpillars with a tail horn; whole leaves and stem tips stripped overnight; dark frass pellets

  • CulturalHand-pick (leave parasitized ones)· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick hornworms by hand at dusk. If one is covered in white rice-like cocoons, leave it - those are beneficial parasitic wasps doing your work.

    Source: UMN Extension

  • OrganicBt - label use only· every 1 wk · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For heavy infestations, Bt kurstaki per label targets the caterpillars.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Whiteflies

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

  • CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  • OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

Cutworms

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: seedlings cut off at soil line; transplants toppled overnight; wilted clipped plants in a row; chewed stems near ground; gray-brown caterpillars curled in soil

  • CulturalPlace stem collars on transplantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  • CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.

    Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

  • OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Cutworms

Phosphorus deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: stunted plants with dark dull green leaves; reddish or purplish tint on leaves and undersides; delayed maturity and poor fruiting; symptoms worst in cold spring soils; older leaves affected first

  • CulturalCheck soil test and soil temperaturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Purpling in cold spring soils is often temporary, since cold roots can't take up phosphorus that's actually present; warm weather usually resolves it, so confirm a true shortage with a soil test before adding phosphorus.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicAdd phosphorus only if the test calls for itmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If low phosphorus is confirmed, work a phosphorus source into the root zone per the test recommendation, and keep soil pH in range since extreme pH ties up phosphorus.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Edema (oedema)

Disorderlow

Symptoms: small watery blisters or bumps on leaf undersides; corky tan or brown scabby spots on leaves and stems; yellow flecking on upper leaf surface; worse in cool cloudy humid spells; not spreading plant to plant

Magnesium deficiency

Deficiencylow

Symptoms: yellowing between the veins of older leaves; veins stay green (interveinal); common in sandy soils and containers

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then correct· every 2 wks · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Interveinal yellowing on older leaves suggests magnesium. Confirm with a test; if low, a dilute Epsom-salt foliar spray is a short-term fix while you amend the soil.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Nitrogen deficiency

Deficiencylow

Symptoms: oldest leaves uniformly pale yellow; plant pale and slow overall; common in containers and after heavy rain

  • CulturalFeed with balanced fertilizer· every 2 wks · ~4 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a balanced organic fertilizer or fish emulsion; new growth greens up within ~2 weeks. Don't overcorrect.

    Source: UMass Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Sunscald

Disorderlow

Symptoms: pale leathery patch on the sun-exposed shoulder of fruit; follows heavy pruning or leaf loss

  • CulturalKeep canopy coverstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Stop over-pruning and let foliage shade the fruit; shade cloth helps in heat waves. Damaged fruit is still edible if you cut out the patch.

    Source: UMN Extension

Transplant shock

Disorderlow

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: wilting or drooping right after transplanting; stalled growth for days after setting out; leaf scorch or edge browning on new transplants; temporary yellowing; recovery once roots establish

  • CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • CulturalHarden off and plant gently next timestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

    Source: UMN Extension