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Texas Sage

Salvia coccinea
Also known as: Tropical Sage, Texas Sage, Blood Sage

Texas Sage is a flower in the Lamiaceae family. It grows best in full sun to part shade with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 8-10. Plants reach maturity about 65–85 days after planting and sit about 6 inches apart.

Varieties

1 from Seeds Now · sorted by days to maturity
  • Scarlet Sage65–85 days

    The Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea), also called Blood Sage, Texas Sage, and Indian Fire, is a fast-growing, tender perennial in the mint family. Produces dense 10" spikes of small, tubular, bright red fragrant blossoms with long stamens. Grows 1'-3' tall on square stems with hairy, heart-shaped foliage. Can be grown as an annual in colder climates. A striking pop of color in any garden or vase. The leaves of Scarlet Sage are edible, but the flowers are toxic to people and should not be ingested. Life cycle: Herbaceous perennial Bloom season: Spring, summer, fall Attracts: Hummingbirds, birds, bees, butterflies, and other pollinators Flower meaning: Good health, longevity, wisdom

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Salvia coccinea|Hardiness zones: 8-10|Planting season: Spring, fall|Days to maturity: 65-85 days|Cold stratify: No|Depth to plant seeds: Lightly cover - seeds need light to germinate|Spacing between plants: 6"-12" apart|Days to germinate (sprout): 7-21 days|Germination soil temps: 65F-75F|Soil types: Sandy, loamy, dry, moist, well-drained|Soil pH: 5.5-7.5|Water needs: Average|Sun needs: Full sun, part shade|Frost tolerant: No|Drought tolerant: Yes|Deer resistant: Yes

    View on Seeds Now
Family
Lamiaceae
Category
Flower
Form
Bush
Lifecycle
annual or perennial
Zone
8-10
Height
2.5–3.5 ft
Spread
0.5–1 ft
Sun
Full sun to part shade

Plant spacing

4 plants per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: a 1-foot square divided into a 2-by-2 grid holding 4 texas sage plants spaced 6 inches apart.
4 plants per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space texas sage about 6 in apart — that fits 4 plants in each 1-foot square (2×2). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium

Plan your texas sage planting

Add texas sage to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

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At a glance

Days to harvest
65–85 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Keep picking
Crops over several weeks
Frost tolerance
Tender · to ~32°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest texas sagePlanting timeline for texas sage, relative to last frost: start indoors from 9 weeks before last frost to 1 week after last frost; grow from 1 week after last frost to 10 weeks after last frost; harvest from 10 weeks after last frost to 13 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowHarvestLast frostTransplant
Start texas sage indoors ~10 weeks before transplanting 1 week after last frost; first harvest 10 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
56-70 days
Outdoor planting
7 to 14 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators

Protection
  • Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.

    Source: UC IPM

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Pinch leafy herbs to stay productive

Pruning
  • Routine carePinch tips and flower buds weekly· every 1 wk · ~10 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pinch the growing tips above a leaf pair and remove flower buds as they form. This keeps basil bushy and leafy instead of bolting to seed.

    Source: UMN Extension

Trim and divide perennial herbs

Pruning
  • Routine careShear after growth flushes; divide every few yearsmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Shear perennial herbs like mint, oregano, thyme and sage after flushes of growth to keep them compact and productive, and divide crowded clumps in spring or fall to renew vigor and airflow. Go easy on fertilizer — lean conditions give stronger flavor.

    Source: UMN Extension

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Harden off seedlings

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Read: starting seeds indoors

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your texas sageand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Powdery mildew

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: white powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces; starts as spots then spreads; leaves yellow and dry under the coating

  • CulturalImprove airflow + remove worst leavesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cut out the most heavily coated leaves and thin for airflow; avoid wetting foliage late in the day.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicPotassium-bicarbonate or sulfur - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled potassium-bicarbonate or sulfur fungicide weekly per the label. No sulfur within 2 weeks of oil or in high heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Root rot from overwatering / poor drainage

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

Slugs & snails

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

  • CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

    Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

  • OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Whiteflies

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

  • CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  • OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM