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Stipa

Nassella tenuissima
Also known as: Pony Tails Grass

Stipa is a flower in the Poaceae family. It grows best in full sun with dry moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 7-10. Plants reach maturity about 98–105 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.

Varieties

1 from True Leaf Market · sorted by days to maturity
  • Pony Tails98–105 days

    Non-GMO; Annual

    98-105 Days to maturity. Nassella tenuissima (syn. Stipa tenuissima). Pony Tails Grass Stipa Seeds. Non-GMO, Annual or Perennial. Open Pollinated. Ornamental. Pony Tails Stipa seeds grow one of the most versatile ornamental plants available. Stipa can just as easily be grown indoors as it can be out in the garden. Pony Tails seeds deliver 36 inches tall feathered mounds of grass with a dense spread, ideal for large planters or garden boxes. Stipa (Nassella) is native to the hottest and arid regions throughout North and South America. 100 Seed Packet.

    View on True Leaf Market
Family
Poaceae
Category
Flower
Form
Grass
Lifecycle
annual
Zone
7-10
Height
1–2 ft
Spread
Sun
Full sun

Plant spacing

1 plant per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: one stipa fills a 1-foot square, spaced 12 inches from its neighbors.
1 plant per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space stipa about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Dry

Plan your stipa planting

Add stipa to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
98–105 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Harvest once
One main harvest
After harvest
Use within days
Quality eases off after peak
Frost tolerance
Hardy · to ~20°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Germination
~55%
Typical minimum germination rate

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest stipaPlanting timeline for stipa, relative to last frost: start indoors from 9 weeks before last frost to 1 week after last frost; grow from 1 week after last frost to 15 weeks after last frost; harvest from 15 weeks after last frost to 16 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowLast frostTransplant
Start stipa indoors ~10 weeks before transplanting 1 week after last frost; first harvest 15 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
56-70 days
Outdoor planting
7 to 14 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your stipaand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Corn earworm

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: caterpillars feeding at ear tips; chewed kernels and frass inside husk; damaged silks; worse in later-season plantings

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Phosphorus deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: stunted plants with dark dull green leaves; reddish or purplish tint on leaves and undersides; delayed maturity and poor fruiting; symptoms worst in cold spring soils; older leaves affected first

  • CulturalCheck soil test and soil temperaturestrong evidence — extension confidence

    Purpling in cold spring soils is often temporary, since cold roots can't take up phosphorus that's actually present; warm weather usually resolves it, so confirm a true shortage with a soil test before adding phosphorus.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicAdd phosphorus only if the test calls for itmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If low phosphorus is confirmed, work a phosphorus source into the root zone per the test recommendation, and keep soil pH in range since extreme pH ties up phosphorus.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Wireworms

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: patchy poor germination; seedlings die in stretches; tunneled holes in potatoes and root crops; hard shiny orange-brown worms in soil; thinning stands after sod or grass

  • CulturalRotate away from grassy groundstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting susceptible crops right after sod, pasture, or grass cover, where wireworms build up; rotate to a less-favored crop and let infested beds dry out between plantings.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms; UC IPM: Wireworms

  • CulturalBait-trap to monitor· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Bury pieces of carrot or potato or a handful of soaked wheat seed as bait when soil reaches about 50F, check after several days, and remove the worms you find to gauge and reduce pressure.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Common corn smut

Diseaselow

Symptoms: swollen silvery-white galls on ears, tassels, or stalks; galls darken to a black sooty spore mass; worse after wounding, hail, or heavy nitrogen