Petunia

Symptoms: mushy water-soaked decay of fleshy tissue; slimy soft rot of heads, bulbs, roots, or fruit; foul odor from rotting tissue; rapid collapse after wounding or in warm wet conditions; rot spreading in storage

• CulturalRemove rotting plants and produce (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Soft rot can't be cured once tissue breaks down; promptly remove and discard affected plants and produce so the bacteria don't spread to neighbors or other stored vegetables.

  Source: Cornell NYS IPM

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• CulturalAvoid wounds and excess moisture●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Harvest in dry conditions, handle gently to avoid bruising, control insects that create entry wounds, and improve drainage; cure and store bulbs and roots cool and dry.

  Source: Cornell NYS IPM

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• CulturalDon't overwater and rotate●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid waterlogged soil and overhead watering that splashes bacteria, and rotate away from previously affected fleshy crops to lower disease pressure.

  Source: Cornell NYS IPM

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Symptoms: wilting that doesn't recover overnight; yellowing climbs one side or one branch first; brown streaking inside a cut stem

• CulturalRemove the plant; rotate and choose resistant varieties●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There is no cure once a plant is infected. Pull it, avoid planting the same family there for 3-4 years, and grow V/F-resistance-coded varieties next season.

  Source: UMN Extension: Tomato Wilts

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Symptoms: large greasy gray-green blotches on leaves; white fuzzy growth on undersides in damp weather; brown firm rot on fruit/tubers; spreads fast in cool wet spells

• CulturalRemove and bag infected plants●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Late blight is highly contagious and can wipe out a planting in days. Pull and bag (don't compost) symptomatic plants to protect neighbors and nearby gardens.

  Source: Cornell: Late Blight

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Symptoms: sudden wilting and collapse of peppers or squash; dark water-soaked lesions at the crown or stem base; white cottony growth on infected fruit; root and crown rot; vine and fruit rot after heavy rain or in wet low spots

• CulturalRemove affected plants at first sign (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Infected plants can't be saved; promptly pull and destroy them at the start of an outbreak to slow spread, and avoid working in beds when wet.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

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• CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterlogging●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant on raised beds, never let beds stay saturated, and water with drip rather than flooding, since this water mold thrives in standing water and saturated soil.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables; UMN Extension

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• CulturalRotate and choose tolerant varieties●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Rotate out of peppers, cucurbits, and tomatoes for at least three years where the disease has occurred, and select tolerant or resistant varieties when available.

  Source: Cornell Vegetables

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Symptoms: galls or knots along roots; stunted plants; yellowing and midday wilting that recovers at night; poor vigor despite good care; patchy poor growth in beds

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then rotate (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Root-knot nematodes can't be eradicated from garden soil, so confirm via a county Extension nematode assay and rotate beds to non-hosts or resistant varieties (look for VFN-type resistance in tomato).

  Source: Clemson HGIC; UF/IFAS

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• CulturalPlant suppressive cover/rotation crops●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  A solid planting of French marigolds grown 2+ months and turned under, or cover crops such as sorghum-sudangrass or cowpea, can lower populations between susceptible crops.

  Source: UF/IFAS; Clemson HGIC

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• CulturalSanitation and organic matter●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid moving infested soil on tools or transplants, build soil organic matter to support beneficial organisms, and keep plants well watered to help them tolerate root damage.

  Source: UC IPM; Clemson HGIC

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Symptoms: sudden wilting in hot weather; yellowing then collapse of whole plant; white fan-like mold mat at the stem base and soil; tan-brown mustard-seed-sized sclerotia near soil line; girdled rotted lower stem

• CulturalRemove infected plants and surrounding soil (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Once a plant collapses it can't be cured; dig out the plant plus the top few inches of nearby soil containing sclerotia and dispose of it, avoiding spread on tools.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press; UC IPM

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• CulturalBury residue and rotate●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Deep-turn soil to bury sclerotia, remove crop debris at season end, and rotate susceptible solanaceous and legume crops with grasses for several seasons.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

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• CulturalAdjust soil pH and plant early●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Maintain soil pH at the level recommended for the crop, since the disease is worse in low-pH soils, and time plantings so harvest begins before peak summer heat favors the fungus.

  Source: Clemson Land-Grant Press

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Symptoms: bronzing or purpling of young leaves; ringspots and concentric rings on leaves and fruit; one-sided or stunted growth; dark streaks on stems; mottled or blotchy ripening fruit

• CulturalRemove infected plants (cannot be cured)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There is no cure once a plant is infected, so promptly pull and dispose of symptomatic plants to reduce the virus reservoir that thrips spread to healthy plants.

  Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

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• CulturalStart clean and control weeds and thrips●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use virus- and thrips-free transplants, choose resistant varieties (Sw-5 tomatoes, Tsw peppers) where available, and control weeds around the garden that harbor both virus and thrips vectors.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

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Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

• CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalOpen the canopy and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalWater at the base, not overhead●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: swarms of elongated soft-bodied beetles; rapid defoliation of leaves and flowers; gray, black, or striped beetles clustered on plants; skeletonized foliage on tomatoes and beans

• CulturalHand-pick wearing gloves· every 2 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Wear gloves (these beetles release a blistering fluid) and knock beetles into soapy water, or use row cover ahead of swarms; their larvae eat grasshopper eggs, so tolerate light feeding when you can.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• OrganicSpot-treat heavy swarms· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If a large swarm threatens a planting, a pyrethrin or other labeled insecticide can knock them back per the label; avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden

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Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

• CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossoms●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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• CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetness●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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Symptoms: seedlings flop over and collapse at the soil line; thin water-soaked pinched stem base; fungus gnats or constantly wet mix

• CulturalDry out, ventilate, sow into clean mix●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use sterile seed-starting mix, bottom-water and let the surface dry between waterings, add airflow, and don't over-sow. Damping-off can't be cured once a seedling collapses.

  Source: UMN Extension: Damping-off

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Symptoms: yellow leaves with dark concentric-ring (bullseye) spots; spotting marches up from the bottom; oldest/lowest leaves first

• CulturalRemove affected lower leaves●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Pick off spotted leaves into the trash (not compost). Mulch heavily to stop soil splash and water at the base.

  Source: UMass Extension

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• CulturalPrune for airflow●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Thin crowded interior foliage so leaves dry quickly after rain or dew.

  Source: UMass Extension

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• ChemicalCopper - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Only if established and spreading. Apply per label every 7-10 days; follow rates and pre-harvest intervals.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

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Symptoms: cupped, curled, or strap-like distorted new leaves; twisted stems and petioles; parallel veins on narrowed young leaves; stunting and delayed fruiting; symptoms appearing on new growth days after a nearby spray

• CulturalIdentify the source and protect future plantings●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Growth-regulator herbicides like 2,4-D and dicamba cause this distortion via drift or contaminated sprayers and mulch; identify and stop the source, and never use a sprayer that previously held herbicide on the garden.

  Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

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• CulturalSupport recovery if exposure was light●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Plants only lightly exposed (not directly sprayed) often outgrow the damage; keep them watered and lightly fed so they can push out normal new growth, though fruiting may be delayed.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

• CulturalHandpick into soapy water· every 1 days · ~4 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In early morning when beetles are sluggish, knock them into a bucket of soapy water; daily removal also reduces the scent that draws in more beetles. Skip the lure traps, which tend to attract more beetles than they catch.

  Source: UMN Extension: Japanese beetles; PennState Extension: Japanese Beetles in the Home Garden

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• CulturalCover plants past bloom●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  On crops that have finished flowering and set fruit, drape a row cover or netting to keep beetles off without blocking pollination during bloom.

  Source: UMN Extension: Japanese beetles

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Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test first●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidance●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

• CulturalLet soil drain and water less●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water root rots like Pythium thrive in saturated soil, so cut back watering, let the surface dry between irrigations, and water at the base rather than keeping soil constantly wet.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• CulturalImprove drainage and aeration●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use raised beds, loosen compacted soil, and add organic matter to improve drainage; remove plants that are already rotted since affected roots won't recover.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

• CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: cloudy or corky spots on fruit; dimpled or pitted fruit; catfacing on tomatoes; shield-shaped brown or green bugs; barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides

• CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weeds●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM Pest Notes

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• CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 days●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: silvery or stippled flecking on leaves; black specks of frass; distorted or scarred young leaves and fruit; tiny slender insects in flowers; deformed fruit set

• CulturalRemove weed and crop reservoirs●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Control flowering weeds in and around the garden and remove spent host crops promptly, since thrips build up on these and move onto fruiting vegetables; avoid planting next to onions, garlic, or cereals where thrips numbers spike.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

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• CulturalKeep plants vigorous and rinse foliage●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Water and feed adequately so plants tolerate feeding, and a forceful water spray can knock down populations; reflective mulch can also deter thrips from settling on young plants.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicTreat with spinosad or oil if needed· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If thrips are damaging growing points or fruit, spinosad or insecticidal soap/oil can help per the label; rotate modes of action and avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators and natural enemies.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM; UF/IFAS

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Symptoms: large green caterpillars with a tail horn; whole leaves and stem tips stripped overnight; dark frass pellets

• CulturalHand-pick (leave parasitized ones)· every 2 days · ~3 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Pick hornworms by hand at dusk. If one is covered in white rice-like cocoons, leave it - those are beneficial parasitic wasps doing your work.

  Source: UMN Extension

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• OrganicBt - label use only· every 1 wk · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For heavy infestations, Bt kurstaki per label targets the caterpillars.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

• CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

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• OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: seedlings cut off at soil line; transplants toppled overnight; wilted clipped plants in a row; chewed stems near ground; gray-brown caterpillars curled in soil

• CulturalPlace stem collars on transplants●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

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• CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

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• OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Cutworms

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: stunted plants with dark dull green leaves; reddish or purplish tint on leaves and undersides; delayed maturity and poor fruiting; symptoms worst in cold spring soils; older leaves affected first

• CulturalCheck soil test and soil temperature●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Purpling in cold spring soils is often temporary, since cold roots can't take up phosphorus that's actually present; warm weather usually resolves it, so confirm a true shortage with a soil test before adding phosphorus.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• OrganicAdd phosphorus only if the test calls for it●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If low phosphorus is confirmed, work a phosphorus source into the root zone per the test recommendation, and keep soil pH in range since extreme pH ties up phosphorus.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

• CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

  Source: UC IPM: Aphids

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: small watery blisters or bumps on leaf undersides; corky tan or brown scabby spots on leaves and stems; yellow flecking on upper leaf surface; worse in cool cloudy humid spells; not spreading plant to plant

• CulturalBalance watering and humidity●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Edema comes from the plant taking up more water than it releases, not a pathogen, so water less often and water in the morning so roots aren't taking up water faster than leaves transpire on cool, humid days.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden; PennState Extension

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• CulturalImprove airflow and drainage●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants for good air movement, improve soil and container drainage, and avoid overcrowding under cover; affected leaves won't recover but new growth comes in normally once conditions balance.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden; PennState Extension

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Symptoms: yellowing between the veins of older leaves; veins stay green (interveinal); common in sandy soils and containers

• CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then correct· every 2 wks · ~4 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Interveinal yellowing on older leaves suggests magnesium. Confirm with a test; if low, a dilute Epsom-salt foliar spray is a short-term fix while you amend the soil.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: oldest leaves uniformly pale yellow; plant pale and slow overall; common in containers and after heavy rain

• CulturalFeed with balanced fertilizer· every 2 wks · ~4 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a balanced organic fertilizer or fish emulsion; new growth greens up within ~2 weeks. Don't overcorrect.

  Source: UMass Extension

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Symptoms: pale leathery patch on the sun-exposed shoulder of fruit; follows heavy pruning or leaf loss

• CulturalKeep canopy cover●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Stop over-pruning and let foliage shade the fruit; shade cloth helps in heat waves. Damaged fruit is still edible if you cut out the patch.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: wilting or drooping right after transplanting; stalled growth for days after setting out; leaf scorch or edge browning on new transplants; temporary yellowing; recovery once roots establish

• CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• CulturalHarden off and plant gently next time●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

  Source: UMN Extension

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