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Pennyroyal Mint

Mentha pulegium
Also known as: Pennyroyal, European Pennyroyal, Pudding Grass

Pennyroyal Mint is a herb in the Lamiaceae family. It grows best in full sun to part shade with medium to wet moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 6-9. Plants reach harvest about 76–104 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.

Varieties

1 from True Leaf Market · sorted by days to maturity
  • Pennyroyal76–104 days

    Heirloom; Non-GMO; Container

    90 Days to maturity. Mentha pulegium. Pennyroyal Mint Seeds. Non-GMO, annual or perennial, open-pollinated, heirloom. Suitable for growing in containers, garden plots, raised beds, and greenhouses. Pennyroyal Mint is a charming, aromatic perennial with fragrant green foliage and delicate lavender blooms—perfect for ground cover, containers, or pest-deterrent borders. Easy to grow from seed, it spreads enthusiastically and brings both beauty and functionality to your herb garden. While it has traditionally been used as a medicinal, herbal tea, and culinary herb, Pennyroyal can be toxic if the dose becomes large enough, so use caution with ingesting Pennyroyal. ~476,000 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
Family
Lamiaceae
Category
Herb
Form
Bush
Lifecycle
perennial
Zone
6-9
Height
0.5–1 ft
Spread
1–1.5 ft
Sun
Full sun to part shade

Plant spacing

1 plant per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: one pennyroyal mint fills a 1-foot square, spaced 12 inches from its neighbors.
1 plant per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space pennyroyal mint about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium to wet

Plan your pennyroyal mint planting

Add pennyroyal mint to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
76–104 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Keep picking
Crops over several weeks
After harvest
Stores well
Holds (or improves) after peak
Frost tolerance
Hardy · to ~15°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Germination
~60%
Typical minimum germination rate

Storing & preserving

Stores well in the right conditions. Refrigerate stems in water, or wrap in a damp towel for a few days.

  • Dry: Dehydrate or air-dry, then store airtight away from light.
  • Freeze: Freeze chopped in oil or water in ice-cube trays.

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest pennyroyal mintPlanting timeline for pennyroyal mint, relative to last frost: start indoors from 10 weeks before last frost to around last frost; grow from around last frost to 11 weeks after last frost; harvest from 11 weeks after last frost to 15 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowHarvestLast frostTransplant
Start pennyroyal mint indoors ~10 weeks before transplanting around last frost; first harvest 11 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
56-70 days
Outdoor planting
0 to 14 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Pairs well with (2)

  • Common CabbageEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Pennyroyal's pungent oils are traditionally used to deter ants, aphids and cabbage pests.

    Timing: Spreads aggressively and is toxic if ingested (especially to pets/livestock) — contain it and keep clear of heavily harvested edibles.

    Source: S7

  • Common TomatoEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Reported to deter aphids and ants near tomato; keep root-contained.

    Timing: Spreads aggressively by runners — sink a bottomless pot or grow in a container rather than in the open bed.

    Source: S7

Sources cited

S7
University of Minnesota Extension

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators

Protection
  • Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.

    Source: UC IPM

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Pinch leafy herbs to stay productive

Pruning
  • Routine carePinch tips and flower buds weekly· every 1 wk · ~10 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pinch the growing tips above a leaf pair and remove flower buds as they form. This keeps basil bushy and leafy instead of bolting to seed.

    Source: UMN Extension

Trim and divide perennial herbs

Pruning
  • Routine careShear after growth flushes; divide every few yearsmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Shear perennial herbs like mint, oregano, thyme and sage after flushes of growth to keep them compact and productive, and divide crowded clumps in spring or fall to renew vigor and airflow. Go easy on fertilizer — lean conditions give stronger flavor.

    Source: UMN Extension

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Harden off seedlings

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Read: starting seeds indoors

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your pennyroyal mintand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Mint rust

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: dusty orange or brown pustules on leaf undersides; pale yellow spots on the upper leaf surface; leaves yellow, distort and drop; pustules may appear on stems

  • CulturalRemove infected leaves and stemsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off and bag (don't compost) leaves and stems with orange pustules as soon as you see them. Avoid overhead watering and space plants so leaves dry quickly.

    Source: PNW Handbooks

  • CulturalCut mint back hard and renew the patchmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For a badly rusted patch, cut the planting to the ground and remove all debris to break the cycle, then divide and replant vigorous runners into fresh ground.

    Source: PNW Handbooks; RHS

Powdery mildew

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: white powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces; starts as spots then spreads; leaves yellow and dry under the coating

  • CulturalImprove airflow + remove worst leavesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cut out the most heavily coated leaves and thin for airflow; avoid wetting foliage late in the day.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicPotassium-bicarbonate or sulfur - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled potassium-bicarbonate or sulfur fungicide weekly per the label. No sulfur within 2 weeks of oil or in high heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Root rot from overwatering / poor drainage

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

Slugs & snails

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

  • CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

    Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

  • OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Whiteflies

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

  • CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  • OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM