Mimosa
Mimosa is a flower in the Fabaceae family. It grows best in full sun to part shade with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 2-13. Plants reach maturity about 120–150 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.
Varieties
1 from True Leaf Market · sorted by days to maturity▸Sensitive Plant120–150 days
Non-GMO; Container; Annual
70-80 days. Mimosa pudica. Sensitive Plant Mimosa Seeds. Non-GMO, Annual (tender perennial). Sensitive Plant mimosas guarantee one of the most interactive, playful, and entertaining blooms you'll ever grow. Sensitive Plant seeds grow neat shrubby mimosas bursting with delicate 1-inch pink "pompom" blooms, whose leaves are known worldwide to be seismonastic (responding to physical touch and movement). Sensitive Plant mimosa thrives in a diverse variety of humid gardens, and its nectar-rich blooms will keep your vegetables and crops healthy and abundant with important pollinators well into the summer. Popular houseplant with medium to high light.
View on True Leaf Market ↗
Plant spacing
In a square-foot bed, space mimosa about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.
Plan your mimosa planting
Add mimosa to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.
Start your free plan →At a glance
Growing timeline
Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations
When to feed, prune & water
Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators
Protection- Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.
- Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.
Care for legumes (skip the nitrogen)
Feeding- Routine careWater at flowering/podding; don't over-feed nitrogen· every 4 days · ~5 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Beans fix their own nitrogen, so extra nitrogen grows leaves not pods. Focus on steady water once they flower and start setting pods.
Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture
Mulch- Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.
Plan crop rotation
Rotation- Routine careRotate plant families between bedsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Avoid planting the same family in the same bed in consecutive years (aim for a 3+ year gap), grouping crops by family so soilborne diseases and pests that build up don't carry over to the next susceptible crop.
- Routine careSequence for soil healthmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Follow heavy feeders like tomatoes and brassicas with legumes or a cover crop to support soil fertility and structure, and keep simple notes each year so you can track where each family grew.
Protect the garden from deer
Protection- Routine careFence the gardenstrong evidence — extension confidence
A fence about 8 feet tall and tight to the ground is the most reliable barrier; an outward-angled or double fence, or monofilament line strung at 30 to 36 inches, can also deter deer on smaller beds.
- Routine careRotate repellents as a supplement· every 2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Where fencing isn't feasible, apply odor/taste repellents and alternate formulations, reapplying every couple of weeks and after rain; combining repellents with fencing works best.
Protect the garden from rabbits and voles
Protection- Routine careFence out rabbitsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Surround beds with 1-inch mesh chicken wire at least 2 feet tall with the bottom buried or staked down a few inches so rabbits can't push under it.
- Routine careReduce vole habitat and guard stemsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Keep grass and mulch pulled back from plant bases and crowns to remove vole cover, mow surrounding vegetation, and use hardware-cloth guards around vulnerable woody stems before winter.
Water deeply at fruiting
Watering- Routine careProvide steady deep watering during fruiting· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence
Once plants begin flowering and setting fruit, supply about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week in deep soakings rather than light sprinkles, ideally at the base; even moisture reduces cracking, blossom-end rot, and bitter or misshapen fruit.
Clean up debris and sanitize at season end
SanitationUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence
Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.
- Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.
Succession-sow quick crops
CareUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careSow small batches on a schedule· every 2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Plant short rows of fast crops like radishes, bush beans, and lettuce every two to three weeks rather than all at once, so you get a steady harvest and one bad weather spell won't ruin the whole planting.
Trellis vining crops
SupportUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careInstall supports at planting timestrong evidence — extension confidence
Set up the trellis, netting, or teepee when you sow or transplant so roots aren't disturbed later; pole beans and tall peas need a sturdy 6-8 foot structure, while trellised cucumbers do best with smaller-fruited varieties.
- Routine careGuide young vines onto the support· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
As shoots run, gently steer them onto the trellis and loosely tie any that don't grab on; keeping vines and fruit off the ground improves airflow and yields cleaner produce.
Something looks wrong?
Describe what you see on your mimosaand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.
Anthracnose (Beans)
Diseasesevere- CulturalUse certified clean seed and rotatestrong evidence — extension confidence
Plant certified anthracnose-free seed and rotate at least 2 years away from beans, since the fungus is seedborne and survives in debris; do not save seed from infected plants.
- CulturalAvoid working wet plants and remove debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence
Stay out of the bean patch when foliage is wet and remove or bury crop debris after harvest, since spores spread by water and on hands and tools.
- ChemicalApply protectant fungicide in cool wet seasons· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
In cool, wet conditions that favor disease, apply a protectant fungicide preventively per the label.
Phytophthora blight (root and crown rot)
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove affected plants at first sign (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence
Infected plants can't be saved; promptly pull and destroy them at the start of an outbreak to slow spread, and avoid working in beds when wet.
- CulturalImprove drainage and avoid waterloggingstrong evidence — extension confidence
Plant on raised beds, never let beds stay saturated, and water with drip rather than flooding, since this water mold thrives in standing water and saturated soil.
- CulturalRotate and choose tolerant varietiesmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Rotate out of peppers, cucurbits, and tomatoes for at least three years where the disease has occurred, and select tolerant or resistant varieties when available.
Root Rot Complex (Beans/Peas)
Diseasesevere- CulturalPlant into warm, well-drained soil and avoid compactionstrong evidence — extension confidence
Plant in warm, well-drained soil, relieve compaction, and avoid overwatering, since Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, and Aphanomyces all thrive in cool, wet, compacted conditions. Once roots rot there is no cure.
- CulturalUse long rotationsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Rotate several years away from beans and peas (longer where Aphanomyces is present, since its spores persist 10+ years) and avoid fields with a root-rot history.
- ChemicalUse fungicide seed treatmentmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Plant fungicide-treated seed, which is effective against Pythium and Rhizoctonia at establishment, per the label; note seed treatments do not control Aphanomyces.
Root-knot nematodes
Nematodesevere- CulturalConfirm with a soil test, then rotate (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence
Root-knot nematodes can't be eradicated from garden soil, so confirm via a county Extension nematode assay and rotate beds to non-hosts or resistant varieties (look for VFN-type resistance in tomato).
- CulturalPlant suppressive cover/rotation cropsmoderate evidence — extension confidence
A solid planting of French marigolds grown 2+ months and turned under, or cover crops such as sorghum-sudangrass or cowpea, can lower populations between susceptible crops.
- CulturalSanitation and organic mattermoderate evidence — extension confidence
Avoid moving infested soil on tools or transplants, build soil organic matter to support beneficial organisms, and keep plants well watered to help them tolerate root damage.
Southern blight
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove infected plants and surrounding soil (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence
Once a plant collapses it can't be cured; dig out the plant plus the top few inches of nearby soil containing sclerotia and dispose of it, avoiding spread on tools.
- CulturalBury residue and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence
Deep-turn soil to bury sclerotia, remove crop debris at season end, and rotate susceptible solanaceous and legume crops with grasses for several seasons.
- CulturalAdjust soil pH and plant earlymoderate evidence — extension confidence
Maintain soil pH at the level recommended for the crop, since the disease is worse in low-pH soils, and time plantings so harvest begins before peak summer heat favors the fungus.
White mold (Sclerotinia stem rot)
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence
There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.
- CulturalOpen the canopy and rotatestrong evidence — extension confidence
Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.
- CulturalWater at the base, not overheadmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.
Bean bacterial blight
Diseasemoderate- CulturalUse clean seed and keep foliage drystrong evidence — extension confidence
Start with fresh certified seed, avoid overhead watering, and never work among wet bean plants; remove infected debris and don't replant beans in that spot for two to three years.
- OrganicApply a labeled copper if needed· every 10 days · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Where blight appears early, a labeled copper applied per the label about every ten days can slow spread, but copper alone won't fully control it.
Bean Common Mosaic (Virus)
Virusmoderate- CulturalPlant certified resistant seedstrong evidence — extension confidence
Plant certified virus-free seed of resistant varieties, the most effective control, since the virus is highly seed-transmitted and there is no cure for infected plants.
- CulturalRogue infected plantsmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Remove and destroy symptomatic plants promptly to reduce a source for aphid spread; note that spraying aphids rarely prevents this virus.
Bean rust
Diseasemoderate- CulturalKeep foliage dry and clean up debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence
Water at the base rather than overhead and avoid handling wet plants; remove and discard infected debris after harvest and rotate beans away from the same spot for a couple of years.
- OrganicApply a labeled fungicide if severe· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
If rust is spreading early in the crop, apply a labeled fungicide per the label on a regular schedule, covering leaf undersides where pustules form.
Blister beetles
Pestmoderate- CulturalHand-pick wearing gloves· every 2 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Wear gloves (these beetles release a blistering fluid) and knock beetles into soapy water, or use row cover ahead of swarms; their larvae eat grasshopper eggs, so tolerate light feeding when you can.
- OrganicSpot-treat heavy swarms· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
If a large swarm threatens a planting, a pyrethrin or other labeled insecticide can knock them back per the label; avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators.
Botrytis gray mold
Diseasemoderate- CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossomsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.
- CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetnessstrong evidence — extension confidence
Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.
Herbicide drift damage (growth-regulator)
Disordermoderate- CulturalIdentify the source and protect future plantingsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Growth-regulator herbicides like 2,4-D and dicamba cause this distortion via drift or contaminated sprayers and mulch; identify and stop the source, and never use a sprayer that previously held herbicide on the garden.
- CulturalSupport recovery if exposure was lightmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Plants only lightly exposed (not directly sprayed) often outgrow the damage; keep them watered and lightly fed so they can push out normal new growth, though fruiting may be delayed.
Iron deficiency (interveinal chlorosis)
Deficiencymoderate- CulturalTest and address soil pHstrong evidence — extension confidence
Iron is present but unavailable in high-pH soils, so test soil pH and, for the affected bed, lower pH toward the crop's preferred range (especially important for acid-loving blueberries) rather than just adding iron.
- OrganicUse chelated iron for a quick correction· every 2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
A foliar spray or soil drench of chelated iron can green up new growth per the label; soil-applied ferrous iron quickly oxidizes and becomes unavailable in high-pH soil, so chelate plus pH management works best.
Japanese beetles
Pestmoderate- CulturalHandpick into soapy water· every 1 days · ~4 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
In early morning when beetles are sluggish, knock them into a bucket of soapy water; daily removal also reduces the scent that draws in more beetles. Skip the lure traps, which tend to attract more beetles than they catch.
- CulturalCover plants past bloommoderate evidence — extension confidence
On crops that have finished flowering and set fruit, drape a row cover or netting to keep beetles off without blocking pollination during bloom.
Mexican bean beetle
Pestmoderate- CulturalHand-pick adults, larvae, and egg masses· every 3 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Check undersides and crush the yellow egg clusters and spiny larvae; sustained hand-picking controls small plantings.
Potassium deficiency
Deficiencymoderate- CulturalConfirm with a soil test firststrong evidence — extension confidence
Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.
- OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidancemoderate evidence — extension confidence
If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.
Root rot from overwatering / poor drainage
Diseasemoderate- CulturalLet soil drain and water lessstrong evidence — extension confidence
Water root rots like Pythium thrive in saturated soil, so cut back watering, let the surface dry between irrigations, and water at the base rather than keeping soil constantly wet.
- CulturalImprove drainage and aerationstrong evidence — extension confidence
Use raised beds, loosen compacted soil, and add organic matter to improve drainage; remove plants that are already rotted since affected roots won't recover.
Spider mites
Pestmoderate- CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.
- OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.
Stink bugs (brown marmorated and native)
Pestmoderate- CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weedsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.
- CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 daysstrong evidence — extension confidence
Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.
- OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.
Thrips on fruiting vegetables
Pestmoderate- CulturalRemove weed and crop reservoirsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Control flowering weeds in and around the garden and remove spent host crops promptly, since thrips build up on these and move onto fruiting vegetables; avoid planting next to onions, garlic, or cereals where thrips numbers spike.
- CulturalKeep plants vigorous and rinse foliagemoderate evidence — extension confidence
Water and feed adequately so plants tolerate feeding, and a forceful water spray can knock down populations; reflective mulch can also deter thrips from settling on young plants.
- OrganicTreat with spinosad or oil if needed· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
If thrips are damaging growing points or fruit, spinosad or insecticidal soap/oil can help per the label; rotate modes of action and avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators and natural enemies.
Wireworms
PestmoderateUnusual this time of year.
- CulturalRotate away from grassy groundstrong evidence — extension confidence
Avoid planting susceptible crops right after sod, pasture, or grass cover, where wireworms build up; rotate to a less-favored crop and let infested beds dry out between plantings.
- CulturalBait-trap to monitor· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Bury pieces of carrot or potato or a handful of soaked wheat seed as bait when soil reaches about 50F, check after several days, and remove the worms you find to gauge and reduce pressure.
Aphids
Pestlow- CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.
- OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.
Earwigs
Pestlow- CulturalTrap and remove· every 1 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Set rolled damp newspaper, low tuna-style cans of oil, or short tubes near plants at dusk, then dump trapped earwigs into soapy water each morning; reduce mulch and damp hiding spots near vulnerable seedlings.
- OrganicApply a bait only if damage persists· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Established plants usually tolerate earwigs, which also eat aphids; if seedlings are being destroyed, a spinosad-based bait labeled for earwigs can help per the label.