Lunaria

Symptoms: mushy water-soaked decay of fleshy tissue; slimy soft rot of heads, bulbs, roots, or fruit; foul odor from rotting tissue; rapid collapse after wounding or in warm wet conditions; rot spreading in storage

• CulturalRemove rotting plants and produce (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Soft rot can't be cured once tissue breaks down; promptly remove and discard affected plants and produce so the bacteria don't spread to neighbors or other stored vegetables.

  Source: Cornell NYS IPM

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• CulturalAvoid wounds and excess moisture●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Harvest in dry conditions, handle gently to avoid bruising, control insects that create entry wounds, and improve drainage; cure and store bulbs and roots cool and dry.

  Source: Cornell NYS IPM

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• CulturalDon't overwater and rotate●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid waterlogged soil and overhead watering that splashes bacteria, and rotate away from previously affected fleshy crops to lower disease pressure.

  Source: Cornell NYS IPM

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Symptoms: yellow V-shaped lesions from the leaf margin inward; blackened veins; spreads in warm wet weather

• CulturalRemove plants; rotate; use clean seed●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  A bacterial disease with no cure. Pull infected plants, rotate brassicas 2-3 years, use hot-water-treated or certified seed, and avoid working plants when wet.

  Source: Cornell Vegetable MD Online

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Symptoms: stunted wilting brassicas that perk up overnight then fade; swollen distorted club-like roots

• CulturalRotate widely and raise soil pH●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  A soilborne disease that persists for years. Avoid brassicas in that bed for 5-7 years, improve drainage, and liming toward pH 7.2 suppresses it.

  Source: UMN Extension: Clubroot

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Symptoms: water-soaked stem or branch lesions; fluffy white cottony mold on stems and pods; sudden wilting of part of a plant; hard black sclerotia inside or on stems; collapse during cool wet bloom periods

• CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalOpen the canopy and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• CulturalWater at the base, not overhead●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: dark brown-to-black circular leaf spots with target-like concentric rings; chlorotic halos around spots; spots first on lower leaves; dark sunken spots on cauliflower curds and cabbage heads

• CulturalUse clean seed, rotate, and bury debris●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Plant certified clean seed, rotate about 3 years away from brassicas, and remove or bury crop debris since lower-leaf lesions seed infection of heads.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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• CulturalAvoid excess nitrogen and improve airflow●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen and space plants for good airflow, since dense, lush canopies and high humidity worsen the disease.

  Source: UMass Extension; UGA Extension

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• ChemicalApply fungicide preventively, rotating FRAC groups· every 1 wk●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Apply fungicide before disease establishes and rotate among different FRAC groups (e.g., groups 7, 3, and 9) per the label for resistance management.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

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Symptoms: gray-green waxy aphid colonies on undersides and in growing tips; clusters deep in heads and sprouts; curled puckered young leaves; stunted plants

• CulturalKnock off colonies and remove debris· every 4 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Rinse colonies off with a strong water spray and pull badly infested leaves; clear old brassica debris and weedy mustards that carry the aphid over.

  Source: UC IPM: Cabbage Aphid; UMass Extension: Cabbage Aphid

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• OrganicApply a labeled insecticidal soap· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a labeled insecticidal soap per the label with thorough coverage of undersides and growing tips; add a spreader so it doesn't bead off waxy leaves, and use a lower rate to avoid leaf burn.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Cabbage Aphid; UMass Extension: Cabbage Aphid

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Symptoms: ragged holes chewed in leaves; green caterpillars on undersides; dark frass pellets; white butterflies around plants

• CulturalHand-pick + insect netting· every 3 days · ~3 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Pick caterpillars by hand and cover plants with insect netting to block egg-laying butterflies.

  Source: Cornell Cooperative Extension

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• OrganicBt (Bacillus thuringiensis) - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Spray Bt var. kurstaki on leaf undersides per label; reapply after rain. Spares pollinators.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Cornell Cooperative Extension

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Symptoms: seedlings flop over and collapse at the soil line; thin water-soaked pinched stem base; fungus gnats or constantly wet mix

• CulturalDry out, ventilate, sow into clean mix●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use sterile seed-starting mix, bottom-water and let the surface dry between waterings, add airflow, and don't over-sow. Damping-off can't be cured once a seedling collapses.

  Source: UMN Extension: Damping-off

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Symptoms: small green caterpillars wriggling when disturbed; windowpane feeding (lower leaf surface left intact); shot-hole and irregular holes in leaves; feeding damage on heads and growing points

• CulturalScout, use row cover, and conserve natural enemies●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Scout undersides of leaves, exclude moths with floating row cover on young plants, and conserve parasitoid wasps that control this pest.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• OrganicTarget young larvae and rotate modes of action· every 1 wk●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Treat small larvae with Bt (B. thuringiensis) or a spinosyn product, and rotate classes every application per the label, since diamondback moth readily develops insecticide resistance.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM; Clemson Extension

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Symptoms: small angular yellow lesions on upper leaf surface; gray-to-white fuzzy spore growth on leaf undersides; necrotic cotyledon spots on seedlings; internal black streaking in cauliflower/broccoli heads

• CulturalImprove airflow and manage seedling moisture●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants, improve air circulation, and irrigate early in the day, since cool nights with high humidity, fog, or dew favor this oomycete, especially in seedling beds.

  Source: NC State Extension; UMass Extension

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• CulturalRotate and use resistant varieties●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Rotate at least 2 years away from brassicas and choose downy-mildew-resistant varieties where available, recognizing resistance varies with local pathogen strains.

  Source: NC State Extension; UMass Extension

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• ChemicalApply fungicide preventively in seedling/transplant stage· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Protect transplants and young crops with an oomycete-active fungicide preventively, rotating modes of action per the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: NC State Extension; PNW Handbooks

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Symptoms: white or yellow stippled blotches on leaves resembling tie-dye; wilting or whitening of brassica foliage; black-and-orange shield-shaped bugs; barrel-shaped black-and-white striped egg rows on leaf undersides

• CulturalSanitation and exclusion●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Destroy old cole crops and weedy mustards that serve as breeding sites, clean up debris in early spring before populations build, and use insect netting or row cover over young brassicas.

  Source: UC IPM; Clemson HGIC

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• CulturalHand-pick bugs and eggs· every 3 days●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Pick adults, nymphs, and the distinctive striped egg rows into soapy water; consistent removal early in the season keeps small plantings ahead of this pest.

  Source: Clemson HGIC; UC IPM

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• OrganicTreat nymphs if needed· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If nymphs are abundant, a spinosad product can help per the label; essential-oil products have tested poorly, so rely mainly on sanitation, netting, and hand-picking.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: Clemson land-grant research

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Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

• CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

  Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

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• OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: cloudy or corky spots on fruit; dimpled or pitted fruit; catfacing on tomatoes; shield-shaped brown or green bugs; barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides

• CulturalExclude with row cover and clear nearby weeds●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Cover susceptible crops with floating row cover before bugs arrive, and remove weeds and groundcover near the garden in early spring where stink bugs feed before moving to crops. Lift covers on flowering crops that need pollination.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM Pest Notes

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• CulturalHand-pick bugs and egg masses· every 3 days●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Scout in the morning and drop adults, nymphs, and egg clusters into a bucket of soapy water; regular hand-picking keeps low populations in check since most garden insecticides work poorly on adults.

  Source: UMN Extension; UC IPM

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• OrganicSpot-treat young nymphs if numbers climb· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If small nymphs are abundant, a botanical such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin, or insecticidal oil, may give some suppression per the label; adults are largely unaffected, so rely mainly on exclusion and hand-picking.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: deformed or puckered new growth; pitted or scarred stems and leaves; aborted or misshapen buds and fruit; catfaced or dimpled strawberries; small bronze-green bugs with triangular back marking

• CulturalManage surrounding weeds●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Keep broadleaf weeds mowed or removed around the garden, since lygus build up on flowering weeds and move to crops as those weeds dry down; avoid mowing large weedy areas right beside fruiting crops at bloom.

  Source: UC IPM

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• CulturalVacuum or shake plants to monitor and reduce· every 5 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Tap plants over a light-colored tray to check for nymphs; a handheld vacuum used once or twice weekly can hold low to moderate numbers down on small plantings.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicTreat nymphs if damage is building· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For active nymph infestations, azadirachtin or a Beauveria bassiana product can give some control per the label; preserve the parasitic wasps and other natural enemies that help suppress lygus.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: white-to-cream raised blister-like pustules on leaf undersides; yellow blotches on upper leaf surface; swollen distorted stems and flower stalks (staghead); pustules on radish leaves

• CulturalControl cruciferous weeds and rotate●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Remove wild mustard and other cruciferous weeds, rotate about 3 years away from crucifers, and bury infected debris by deep tillage, since the pathogen survives on debris and weed hosts.

  Source: Univ. of Illinois Extension; PNW Handbooks

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• CulturalAvoid overhead irrigation●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use drip irrigation and space for drying, since prolonged leaf wetness drives this oomycete disease.

  Source: PNW Handbooks; Univ. of Illinois Extension

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Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

• CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 days●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

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• OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: young brassica or onion transplants wilt and stunt; bluish off-color leaves; white legless maggots in roots; rotting tunneled roots; plants pull up easily

• CulturalCover at planting with floating row cover●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Place floating row cover over the crop at seeding or transplanting and bury the edges so flies cannot lay eggs at the stem base; do not use if the same crop grew there last year, since trapped pupae would hatch underneath.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cabbage and onion maggots; UMass Extension: Cabbage Root Maggot

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• CulturalRotate and delay planting●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Rotate susceptible crops to a new spot each year and, where possible, delay planting to late spring to miss the main egg-laying window.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cabbage and onion maggots

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: seedlings cut off at soil line; transplants toppled overnight; wilted clipped plants in a row; chewed stems near ground; gray-brown caterpillars curled in soil

• CulturalPlace stem collars on transplants●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

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• CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cutworms; UC IPM: Cutworms

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• OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM: Cutworms

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: tiny shot-hole pits all over young leaves; tiny black beetles that jump when disturbed; worst on seedlings

• CulturalRow cover seedlings●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Float insect netting over seedlings until they're large enough to outgrow damage; remove for flowering crops needing pollination.

  Source: UMN Extension: Flea Beetles

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• OrganicSpinosad or kaolin clay - label use only· every 1 wk · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For heavy pressure on seedlings, a labeled spinosad or kaolin-clay product helps. Follow the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UMN Extension

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Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

• CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

  Source: UC IPM: Aphids

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: plant sends up a tall central flower stalk; leaves turn bitter; growth turns leggy; happens during heat and long days in lettuce, spinach, and brassicas

• CulturalShade and harvest before bolting●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Once a plant bolts it can't be reversed, so harvest at the first sign of stalk formation; 30-50% shade cloth and steady watering during heat help delay bolting in cool-season crops.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cool-season crops; PennState Extension: Heat-Proofing Your Vegetable Garden

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• CulturalUse bolt-resistant varieties and succession sow●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Choose heat-tolerant, slow-bolt varieties and stagger small sowings so a heat spell doesn't take out the whole planting.

  Source: UMN Extension: Cool-season crops

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Symptoms: ragged irregular holes in leaves and seedlings; chewed flower petals; damage to soft fruit; pincered insects hiding in dark moist spots; feeding noticed mainly overnight

• CulturalTrap and remove· every 1 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Set rolled damp newspaper, low tuna-style cans of oil, or short tubes near plants at dusk, then dump trapped earwigs into soapy water each morning; reduce mulch and damp hiding spots near vulnerable seedlings.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicApply a bait only if damage persists· every 1 wk●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Established plants usually tolerate earwigs, which also eat aphids; if seedlings are being destroyed, a spinosad-based bait labeled for earwigs can help per the label.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: small watery blisters or bumps on leaf undersides; corky tan or brown scabby spots on leaves and stems; yellow flecking on upper leaf surface; worse in cool cloudy humid spells; not spreading plant to plant

• CulturalBalance watering and humidity●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Edema comes from the plant taking up more water than it releases, not a pathogen, so water less often and water in the morning so roots aren't taking up water faster than leaves transpire on cool, humid days.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden; PennState Extension

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• CulturalImprove airflow and drainage●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space plants for good air movement, improve soil and container drainage, and avoid overcrowding under cover; affected leaves won't recover but new growth comes in normally once conditions balance.

  Source: Missouri Botanical Garden; PennState Extension

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Symptoms: brown, dried margins on young inner leaves; scorched leaf edges inside the head; appears during fast growth and moisture swings; not spreading like a disease

• CulturalKeep moisture even and ease off nitrogen●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Tipburn is a transient calcium issue driven by water stress, not low soil calcium, so water steadily to avoid dry-wet cycles and don't over-apply nitrogen, which competes with calcium uptake.

  Source: UC IPM: Tipburn on Lettuce and Spinach; UMass Extension: Brassicas Tip Burn

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• CulturalChoose tolerant varieties and harvest on time●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Pick tipburn-tolerant varieties and harvest heads promptly during hot spells rather than letting them sit and grow rapidly.

  Source: UC IPM: Tipburn

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Symptoms: oldest leaves uniformly pale yellow; plant pale and slow overall; common in containers and after heavy rain

• CulturalFeed with balanced fertilizer· every 2 wks · ~4 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Apply a balanced organic fertilizer or fish emulsion; new growth greens up within ~2 weeks. Don't overcorrect.

  Source: UMass Extension

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Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: wilting or drooping right after transplanting; stalled growth for days after setting out; leaf scorch or edge browning on new transplants; temporary yellowing; recovery once roots establish

• CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• CulturalHarden off and plant gently next time●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

  Source: UMN Extension

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