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Lavatera

Lavatera trimestris
Also known as: Rose Mallow

Lavatera is a flower in the Malvaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 2-13. Plants reach maturity about 63–70 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.

Varieties

1 from True Leaf Market · sorted by days to maturity
  • Rose Mallow63–70 days

    Non-GMO; Container; Annual

    Rose Mallow is an annual mallow (Lavatera trimestris) that produces large, satiny, hibiscus-like blooms 3 to 4 inches across in shades of pink and white, often with deeper veining. Fast-growing and free-flowering from midsummer until frost, plants form upright, bushy mounds. It blooms best in full sun and is well suited to borders, cottage gardens, and cut arrangements.

    View on True Leaf Market
Family
Malvaceae
Category
Flower
Form
Bush
Lifecycle
annual
Zone
2-13
Height
2–3 ft
Spread
1–1.5 ft
Sun
Full sun

Plant spacing

1 plant per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: one lavatera fills a 1-foot square, spaced 12 inches from its neighbors.
1 plant per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space lavatera about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium

Plan your lavatera planting

Add lavatera to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
63–70 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Harvest once
One main harvest
After harvest
Use within days
Quality eases off after peak
Frost tolerance
Semi-hardy · to ~24°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Germination
~65%
Typical minimum germination rate

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest lavateraPlanting timeline for lavatera, relative to last frost: start indoors from 10 weeks before last frost to 2 weeks before last frost; grow from 2 weeks before last frost to 7 weeks after last frost; harvest from 7 weeks after last frost to 8 weeks after last frost.Start indoorsGrowLast frostTransplant
Start lavatera indoors ~8 weeks before transplanting 2 weeks before last frost; first harvest 7 weeks after last frost.
Seed to transplant
42-56 days
Outdoor planting
-14 to 0 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators

Protection
  • Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.

    Source: UC IPM

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Harden off seedlings

Protection

Unusual this time of year.

Read: starting seeds indoors

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your lavateraand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Hollyhock rust

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: yellow-orange spots on upper leaf surfaces; raised orange-brown pustules on leaf undersides, stems and petioles; leaves brown, shrivel and die from the bottom up

  • CulturalRemove infected leaves and spent stalksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off spotted leaves through the season and cut plants to the soil line after flowering, bagging all debris (don't compost). Pull nearby mallow weeds, which host the same rust.

    Source: Iowa State Extension; Univ. of Illinois Extension

  • CulturalWater at the base and space for airflowmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid wetting the foliage; use drip or water early so leaves dry fast, and give plants room for good air movement to slow new infections.

    Source: PNW Handbooks

  • ChemicalProtectant fungicide - label use only· every 2 wks · ~8 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Where rust returns severely every year, a labeled fungicide (e.g. myclobutanil) from early in the season can protect new growth. Follow the label.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: PNW Handbooks

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Whiteflies

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: clouds of tiny white insects fly up when plants are disturbed; yellowing stippled leaves; sticky honeydew and black sooty mold; weak stunted growth

  • CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

  • OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM: Whiteflies

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM