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Hoya

Hoya carnosa
Also known as: Wax Plant

Hoya is a vegetable in the Apocynaceae family. It grows best in part shade with dry moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 10-12.

Varieties

1 · sorted by days to maturity
  • Hoya

    PROPAGATION CATEGORY: Tropical houseplant (cuttings) (not in original seed catalog). Use: Waxy foliage; fragrant star flower clusters. Note: Considered pet-safe.

    Hoya (Hoya carnosa), the wax plant, is a long-lived trailing/climbing houseplant with thick waxy leaves and clusters of fragrant star-shaped flowers; tolerant of neglect and pet-safe.

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Hoya carnosa|Hardiness zones: 10-12|Propagation: cutting|Light: Bright indirect light|Water: Low|Mature size: trailing 2-6 feet

Family
Apocynaceae
Category
Vegetable
Form
Vine
Lifecycle
perennial
Zone
10-12
Height
2–4 ft
Spread
1–2 ft
Sun
Part shade
Water
Dry

Plan your hoya planting

Add hoya to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

Hoya care at a glance

Light
Bright, indirect

Bright, indirect light with a little gentle morning sun — that's what triggers the porcelain flower clusters. Deep shade means no blooms.

Water
When the pot is nearly dry

Hoyas are semi-succulent: water thoroughly when the mix has almost completely dried. The thick leaves wrinkle slightly when truly thirsty.

Humidity
Average room humidity

Average to slightly humid air is fine; it appreciates a bathroom or kitchen window.

Temperature
60–85°F

Keep above 50°F — cold damage starts below that.

Soil
Potting mix

An airy, chunky mix — orchid bark, perlite, and potting soil in roughly equal parts. Hoya roots suffocate in dense soil.

Feeding
Growing season

Dilute balanced fertilizer monthly in spring and summer.

In winter: Water sparingly in winter — a slightly dry, cool rest actually encourages spring flowering.

Pet-safe

Non-toxic to cats, dogs, and people — the wax plant is a safe trailing choice for pet homes.

Pet listing per the ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants database.

How to propagate hoya

Stem cuttings

  1. Cut a vine section with 2–3 nodes; remove the lowest leaves.
  2. Root in water or moist sphagnum/perlite with the bare nodes buried.
  3. Roots appear in 3–6 weeks in warmth and bright shade.
  4. Pot up and keep barely moist while new growth starts.

Common hoya problems

Why won't my hoya bloom?

Likely cause: Not enough light, or not enough age — hoyas usually flower only once mature (2–3+ years) and only in bright light. Cutting off old flower spurs also removes future blooms.

Fix: Give it bright indirect light with some morning sun, keep it slightly root-bound, never remove the leafless flower spurs, and let it rest cool and dryish in winter.

Why are my hoya's leaves wrinkling?

Likely cause: Either genuine thirst or, if the mix is damp, roots that have rotted and can no longer drink.

Fix: Dry mix: soak thoroughly. Damp mix: unpot and check roots — trim any mushy ones and re-root the healthy vine in fresh airy mix.

What are the white fuzzy spots on my hoya?

Likely cause: Mealybugs — they love hoya's dense leaf axils.

Fix: Dab visible bugs with isopropyl alcohol on a swab, then treat the whole plant weekly with insecticidal soap until clear.

Care profile compiled from extension and horticultural society guidance and the ASPCA toxic-plants list. Conditions vary by home — treat ranges as starting points.

At a glance

Frost tolerance
Warm-season · to ~50°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives

Storing & preserving

Most keep best refrigerated; storage crops prefer a cool, dry spot.

  • Freeze: Blanch briefly, cool, then freeze — keeps color and texture.
  • Can: Pressure-can low-acid vegetables; water-bath only pickled/acidified ones.

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

Propagation
Cutting

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators

Protection
  • Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.

    Source: UC IPM; UMN Extension

  • Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.

    Source: UC IPM

Support monarchs on milkweed

Care
  • Routine careTolerate aphids; never spraymoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Milkweed feeds monarch caterpillars and pollinators, so skip insecticides entirely. Oleander aphids look alarming but rarely harm the plant — knock them off with a water jet or wipe them off by hand and leave the rest for the butterflies.

    Source: Xerces Society; UMN Extension

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your hoyaand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM