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Crabapple

Malus spp.
Also known as: Flowering Crabapple

Crabapple is a flower in the Rosaceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 4-8.

Varieties

1 · sorted by days to maturity
  • Crabapple

    PROPAGATION CATEGORY: Flowering tree (grafted) (not in original seed catalog). Use: Spring flowers; small ornamental (often edible) fruit.

    Flowering Crabapple (Malus) is a small ornamental tree grown for clouds of spring blossom and persistent small fruit that feeds birds; choose disease-resistant cultivars.

    Growing notes: Botanical name: Malus spp.|Hardiness zones: 4-8|Propagation: grafting|Light: Full sun|Water: Medium|Mature size: 10-25 feet

Family
Rosaceae
Category
Flower
Form
Shrub
Lifecycle
perennial
Zone
4-8
Height
10–25 ft
Spread
10–25 ft
Sun
Full sun
Water
Medium

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At a glance

Frost tolerance
Hardy · to ~-40°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives

Growing timeline

Propagation
Grafting
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Protect the garden from deer

Protection
  • Routine careFence the gardenstrong evidence — extension confidence

    A fence about 8 feet tall and tight to the ground is the most reliable barrier; an outward-angled or double fence, or monofilament line strung at 30 to 36 inches, can also deter deer on smaller beds.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

  • Routine careRotate repellents as a supplement· every 2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Where fencing isn't feasible, apply odor/taste repellents and alternate formulations, reapplying every couple of weeks and after rain; combining repellents with fencing works best.

    Source: UMN Extension; PennState Extension

Renovate strawberries after fruiting

Pruning
  • Routine careMow/trim old leaves and thin runnersmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    After June-bearers finish, mow or shear the old foliage, thin crowded plants and excess runners, and topdress with compost to set up next year's crop.

    Source: UMN Extension: Strawberries

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your crabappleand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Gray mold (Botrytis) on strawberries

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: soft brown rot on ripening berries; fuzzy gray mold over the rot; spreads berry-to-berry in wet weather

  • CulturalPick clean, mulch, and improve airflowstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Harvest ripe berries promptly, remove rotting ones, mulch with straw to keep fruit off soil, and space for airflow. Dry conditions stop it.

    Source: UMN Extension

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Powdery mildew

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: white powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces; starts as spots then spreads; leaves yellow and dry under the coating

  • CulturalImprove airflow + remove worst leavesstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Cut out the most heavily coated leaves and thin for airflow; avoid wetting foliage late in the day.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicPotassium-bicarbonate or sulfur - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply a labeled potassium-bicarbonate or sulfur fungicide weekly per the label. No sulfur within 2 weeks of oil or in high heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Spider mites

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

  • CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

    Source: UC IPM

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM