Chive
Chive is a herb in the Amaryllidaceae family. It grows best in full sun to part shade with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 3-9. Plants reach harvest about 76–104 days after planting and sit about 3 inches apart.
Varieties
1 from High Mowing · sorted by days to maturity▸Chives76–104 days
Excellent for processing; Hardy in Zones 3-8
Medium-to full-size leaves excellent as a garnish. Quick growing and a good choice for greenhouse growers or those who prefer a heavy chive. Great for freezing and drying. Similar to Staro. Can tolerate partial shade. 26M seeds/oz. A. schoenoprasum.
Growing notes: The herbs we offer in this section were chosen for their exceptional aroma, flavor, disease resistance and appeal. We offer tried-and-true standards, such as Genovese basil and Italian Flat Leaf parsley, alongside more modern varieties that have impressed us in our trials, like Aroma 2 F1 basil, resistant to fusarium wilt and slow to bolt, and Rutgers Devotion and Obsession basils with downy mildew resistance. Most herbs are compact and easy to grow, making them suitable for containers, greenhouses and small gardens.
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Plant spacing
In a square-foot bed, space chive about 3 in apart — that fits 16 plants in each 1-foot square (4×4). Wider rows or containers space the same.
Plan your chive planting
Add chive to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.
Start your free plan →At a glance
Storing & preserving
Refrigerate stems in water, or wrap in a damp towel for a few days.
- Dry: Dehydrate or air-dry, then store airtight away from light.
- Freeze: Freeze chopped in oil or water in ice-cube trays.
General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.
Growing timeline
Companion planting — with cited sources
From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · ● traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.
Pairs well with (5)
- CarrotEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionspest-deter, pollinator-attract
Chive foliage emits the same allyl sulfide volatiles that mask carrot rust fly host-finding. Flowering chives also attract syrphid (hoverfly) adults whose larvae predate aphids on adjacent crops. Extension home-garden guides across the US Northeast, Pacific Northwest, and Ontario recommend chive border rows for carrot beds.
Source: S1, S13, University of Guelph / OMAFRA
- AppleEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Chive plantings at the base of apple trees are traditionally cited for suppression of apple scab and aphids; extension support is at the home-garden level rather than commercial-orchard guidance.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- Common CabbageEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter, pollinator-attract
Chive volatiles share the masking effect of bulb onion; flowering chives also attract syrphids whose larvae prey on cabbage aphid colonies.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
- Common LettuceEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Chive's allium volatiles may deter aphids on adjacent lettuce; perennial chive clumps make convenient bed-edge companions.
Source: University of Maryland Extension
- Common TomatoEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter
Chive perimeter or interplant is widely cited by extension references as deterring aphids on tomato; effect is plausible (volatile masking) but field-trial evidence is thin.
Source: University of Maryland Extension, S13
Sources cited
- S1
- Cornell University Cooperative Extension — vegetable production guides
- S13
- University of New Hampshire Extension
- S23
- University of Guelph / OMAFRA (Ontario)
- S9
- University of Maryland Extension — Home & Garden Info Center
Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations
When to feed, prune & water
Feed alliums in spring
Feeding- Routine careFeed nitrogen every 3 weeks during active growth· every 3 wks · ~9 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Alliums build the bulb from spring leaf growth. Feed a nitrogen source every ~3 weeks through spring, then stop once bulbs start to swell so they cure well.
Floating row cover timing
ProtectionUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careCover at planting and seal the edgesstrong evidence — extension confidence
Lay floating row cover over the crop right at seeding or transplanting and bury the edges with soil so pests can't get under; don't cover ground where the same crop grew last year, since overwintered pupae would emerge inside.
- Routine careRemove at flowering for pollinated cropsstrong evidence — extension confidence
On crops that need insect pollination, take the cover off once flowering begins so bees can reach the blooms; on self-pollinated or leafy crops you can leave it longer.
Something looks wrong?
Describe what you see on your chiveand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.
Bacterial soft rot
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove rotting plants and produce (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence
Soft rot can't be cured once tissue breaks down; promptly remove and discard affected plants and produce so the bacteria don't spread to neighbors or other stored vegetables.
- CulturalAvoid wounds and excess moisturestrong evidence — extension confidence
Harvest in dry conditions, handle gently to avoid bruising, control insects that create entry wounds, and improve drainage; cure and store bulbs and roots cool and dry.
- CulturalDon't overwater and rotatemoderate evidence — extension confidence
Avoid waterlogged soil and overhead watering that splashes bacteria, and rotate away from previously affected fleshy crops to lower disease pressure.
Onion & garlic white rot
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove infected plants and soil carefullystrong evidence — extension confidence
Dig and discard affected plants along with the surrounding soil to avoid spreading the long-lived sclerotia; clean soil off tools and boots, since this fungus can persist in soil for many years.
- CulturalAvoid moving infested soil and replantingstrong evidence — extension confidence
Don't replant alliums in known-infested ground; while rotation alone won't clear it, avoiding the area and not spreading contaminated soil is the most reliable home approach.
Leafhoppers & aster yellows
Diseasemoderate- CulturalRemove infected plants and weed reservoirsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Aster yellows can't be cured, so pull and discard plants showing yellowing and witches-broom, and clear nearby weedy hosts that harbor the phytoplasma and its leafhoppers.
- CulturalExclude leafhoppers with row covermoderate evidence — extension confidence
On young susceptible crops, a floating row cover keeps egg-laying leafhoppers off and lowers the chance of aster-yellows spread.
Leek moth and thrips on leeks
Pestmoderate- CulturalCover and clean upmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Cover plants with insect netting or row cover at planting to keep egg-laying leek moths and thrips off, and remove and destroy badly infested leaves and crop debris. Rotate alliums to a new spot each year to break the pest cycle.
- OrganicWash off thrips or spray· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
For thrips, hose plants down to dislodge them, or apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem product per the label. For leek moth caterpillars, a labeled spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis product applied per the label when young larvae are active can help.
Leek rust
Diseasemoderate- CulturalImprove airflow and remove infected leavesmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Leek rust is a fungal disease favored by damp, crowded conditions and lush growth; space plants well, avoid over-feeding with nitrogen, and remove badly affected leaves. Mild cases usually still produce a usable crop, and rotating alliums each year helps prevent buildup.
Onion thrips
Pestmoderate- CulturalOverhead-water and remove debris· every 3 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Thrips dislike moisture; overhead irrigation and weed/debris cleanup reduce them. Reflective mulch deters them on young plants.
- OrganicInsecticidal soap/spinosad - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
For heavy pressure a labeled soap or spinosad on a weekly schedule helps. Follow the label.
Cabbage & onion root maggots
PestmoderateUnusual this time of year.
- CulturalCover at planting with floating row coverstrong evidence — extension confidence
Place floating row cover over the crop at seeding or transplanting and bury the edges so flies cannot lay eggs at the stem base; do not use if the same crop grew there last year, since trapped pupae would hatch underneath.
- CulturalRotate and delay plantingstrong evidence — extension confidence
Rotate susceptible crops to a new spot each year and, where possible, delay planting to late spring to miss the main egg-laying window.