Carnation

Symptoms: fuzzy gray-brown mold on leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit; soft watery rot on fruit and blossoms; dieback from cut or wounded stems; mold spreading in cool humid still conditions; blighted flowers that fail to set

• CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossoms●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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• CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetness●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.

  Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

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Symptoms: stunted yellowing plants that wilt despite wet soil; soft brown mushy roots; sloughing root outer layer leaving thread-like core; poor growth in low or compacted wet spots; seedlings collapsing at the soil line

• CulturalLet soil drain and water less●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Water root rots like Pythium thrive in saturated soil, so cut back watering, let the surface dry between irrigations, and water at the base rather than keeping soil constantly wet.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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• CulturalImprove drainage and aeration●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Use raised beds, loosen compacted soil, and add organic matter to improve drainage; remove plants that are already rotted since affected roots won't recover.

  Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

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Symptoms: fine pale stippling/speckling on leaves; fine webbing on undersides in hot dry spells; leaves bronzing and dropping

• CulturalHose down and raise humidity· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Mites thrive in hot, dry, dusty conditions. Spray foliage (especially undersides) with water to dislodge them and reduce dust.

  Source: UC IPM

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap or horticultural oil - label use only· every 5 days · ~2 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Apply to undersides per label; mites resist many products, so soaps/oils are preferred. Not in extreme heat.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

• CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wks●●●Strongstrong evidence — extension confidence

  Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

  Source: UC IPM: Aphids

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• OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

  Always follow the product label — it is the law.

  Source: UC IPM

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Symptoms: winding pale tunnels inside the leaf; pale blotches between the upper and lower leaf surfaces; tunnels/blotches that can't be rubbed off because the larva is inside

• CulturalPick mined leaves + row cover· every 5 days · ~3 wks●●Moderatemoderate evidence — extension confidence

  Remove and bag leaves with tunnels, and cover plants with insect netting to block the egg-laying flies. Damage is mostly cosmetic on leafy crops.

  Source: UMN Extension

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