Black-Eyed Susan
Black-Eyed Susan is a flower in the Asteraceae family. It grows best in full sun with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 3-7. Plants reach maturity about 84–126 days after planting and sit about 12 inches apart.
Varieties
6 from True Leaf Market & High Mowing · sorted by days to maturity▸Black-Eyed Susan84–98 days
Container; Non-GMO; Perennial
84-98 days maturity. Rudbeckia hirta. Rudbeckia Black-Eyed Susan Seeds. Non-GMO, Perennial. Ornamental. Black-Eyed Susan seeds grow some of the season's most timeless and familiar blooms of varieties native to the United States. Black-Eyed Susan rudbeckias are hardy outdoor favorites for growing unique, yet brilliant colors for lining the back of the garden or showing off on the patio. Black-Eyed Susan seeds grow classic 12-36 inch rudbeckias bursting with neat 2.5 inch blooms of delicate daisy-like golden yellow petals around a smokey chocolate center. Black-Eyed Susan is easy to grow from seed and is known to thrive in a variety of gardens prone to heat, drought, and poor soil across North America. About 100,000 seeds per ounce.
View on True Leaf Market ↗▸Indian Summer84–105 days
Non-GMO; AAS Winner; Container; Perennial
84-105 days. Indian Summer rudbeckia seeds grow a seasonal spin to one of our country's most timeless, familiar, and award-winning blooms. Indian Summer has a wildflower habit and will thrive effortlessly if given space and plenty of sun. Indian Summer rudbeckia is an AAS Flower Winner and Fleuroselect Novelty Winner for being "a rapidly growing annual" with "huge blooms 6-9 inches across and makes a wonderful sunflower-like cut." Indian Summer rudbeckia seeds are known to tolerate gardens prone to heat and drought and are an ideal grow for kids or novice gardeners.
View on True Leaf Market ↗▸Cherokee Sunset91–105 days
Non-GMO; Container; Annual
Cherokee Sunset is a Rudbeckia hirta and a 2002 All-America Selections winner noted for its fully double and semi-double blooms in rich autumn tones of bronze, mahogany, gold, and orange. Vigorous and free-flowering, it is typically grown as an annual or short-lived perennial and makes a long-lasting cut flower. Plants reach about 24 to 30 inches tall and bloom over a long summer-to-fall season.
View on True Leaf Market ↗▸Cherry Brandy91–105 days
Non-GMO; Container
91-105 days maturity. Rudbeckia hirta. Rudbeckia Cherry Brandy Seeds. Non-GMO, Perennial. Ornamental. Cherry Brandy seeds grow one of the summer's most vibrant and exclusive rudbeckias, compact and tidy 18-24 inch tall uprights boasting 3-4 inch semi-double cherry red blooms. Award-winning Cherry Brandy rudbeckias are a floral shop favorite as a rich, smokey substitute to the classic golden yellow Black-Eyed Susan. Cherry Brandy rudbeckia is a Fleuroselect Novelty Award Winner for its "new color and red shades of petals combined to the darker red center."
View on True Leaf Market ↗▸Goldilocks91–105 days
Non-GMO; Container; Annual
91-105 days maturity. Rudbeckia hirta. Rudbeckia Goldilocks Seeds. Non-GMO, Perennial. Ornamental. Goldilocks seeds grow a tidy yet spectacular twist to the traditional daisy-like rudbeckia. Goldilocks seeds mature as neat 15-inch tall dwarf plants with generous 3-4 inch sunburst yellow semi-double and fully double blooms. Goldilocks rudbeckia debuted as a Fleuroselect Gold Medal Winner for its "masses of large double and semi-double flowers" and being "very adaptable and performing well in most soil types and climatic conditions." Rudbeckia Goldilocks seeds are an ideal plant for window boxes, baskets, and indoors or hardy enough to fill out a flower bed for rich, abundant color up until the frost. About 62,000seeds per ounce.
View on True Leaf Market ↗▸Rudbeckia94–126 days
Prolific; 32-46” tall; Perennial
Vigorous plants erupt in a cheerful blend of 4-6” bright yellow to red blooms, some exhibiting highly contrasting coloration. Foliage is dark green, and stems are multi-branching and sturdy, offering seemingly endless blooms over a long harvest window. Exceptional cut flower, border plant, and overall easy to grow flower that attracts pollinators and admirers alike
Growing notes: We have selected these easy-to-grow flower varieties for their individual beauty, for the beneficial insects they attract, and/or suitability for cut flower production. By offering an assortment of hues, heights, growth habits and appearances, we strive to fill your flower needs, whether you are adding color to your home garden or selling bouquets for market. Our varieties are tried-and-true standards that are sure to perform well in a wide range of growing conditions. Many of these varieties are well suited for succession plantings to ensure a continuous harvest throughout the season. Days to maturity are from seeding. M=1,000.
View on High Mowing ↗
Plant spacing
In a square-foot bed, space black-eyed susan about 12 in apart — that fits 1 plant in each 1-foot square (1×1). Wider rows or containers space the same.
Plan your black-eyed susan planting
Add black-eyed susan to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.
Start your free plan →At a glance
Growing timeline
Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations
When to feed, prune & water
Attract beneficial insects and protect pollinators
Protection- Routine carePlant insectary flowers and tolerate light pestsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Grow a diversity of flowering plants (including small-flowered umbels and asters) to feed predators and parasitoids, and tolerate low pest numbers so natural enemies have prey to stick around.
- Routine careNever spray open bloomsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Avoid insecticides on flowering plants and apply any needed sprays in the evening when pollinators aren't active, and favor selective products over broad-spectrum ones to spare bees and beneficials.
Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture
Mulch- Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.
Protect the garden from rabbits and voles
Protection- Routine careFence out rabbitsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Surround beds with 1-inch mesh chicken wire at least 2 feet tall with the bottom buried or staked down a few inches so rabbits can't push under it.
- Routine careReduce vole habitat and guard stemsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Keep grass and mulch pulled back from plant bases and crowns to remove vole cover, mow surrounding vegetation, and use hardware-cloth guards around vulnerable woody stems before winter.
Clean up debris and sanitize at season end
SanitationUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence
Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.
- Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.
Harden off seedlings
ProtectionUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careGradually expose plants to the outdoors· every 1 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Starting about two weeks before transplanting, set seedlings outside in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours and lengthen their time and sun exposure each day, avoiding windy days, to prevent transplant shock.
- Routine careEase back on water and transplant on a mild daystrong evidence — extension confidence
Water a little less during hardening (without letting plants wilt) to toughen growth, then transplant in late afternoon or on a cool, cloudy, calm day.
Succession-sow quick crops
CareUnusual this time of year.
- Routine careSow small batches on a schedule· every 2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Plant short rows of fast crops like radishes, bush beans, and lettuce every two to three weeks rather than all at once, so you get a steady harvest and one bad weather spell won't ruin the whole planting.
Something looks wrong?
Describe what you see on your black-eyed susanand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.
Tomato spotted wilt virus
Virussevere- CulturalRemove infected plants (cannot be cured)strong evidence — extension confidence
There is no cure once a plant is infected, so promptly pull and dispose of symptomatic plants to reduce the virus reservoir that thrips spread to healthy plants.
- CulturalStart clean and control weeds and thripsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Use virus- and thrips-free transplants, choose resistant varieties (Sw-5 tomatoes, Tsw peppers) where available, and control weeds around the garden that harbor both virus and thrips vectors.
White mold (Sclerotinia stem rot)
Diseasesevere- CulturalRemove infected plants (manage, not cure)strong evidence — extension confidence
There's no cure for an infected plant; cut out and bag affected plants including the black sclerotia, and don't compost them, since sclerotia survive years in soil.
- CulturalOpen the canopy and rotatestrong evidence — extension confidence
Space plants widely, control weeds, orient rows to prevailing wind, and avoid overhead watering at bloom to dry the canopy; rotate to non-host crops (corn or other grasses) for several years.
- CulturalWater at the base, not overheadmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Use drip or soaker irrigation to keep foliage and the soil surface drier, which discourages the sclerotia germination and mycelial growth that drive white mold.
Botrytis gray mold
Diseasemoderate- CulturalRemove infected tissue and old blossomsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Prune out moldy leaves, stems, and fruit and clear fallen blossoms and debris where the fungus gets started, disposing of them rather than composting.
- CulturalImprove airflow and reduce leaf wetnessstrong evidence — extension confidence
Space and stake plants for good air movement, water at the base in the morning, and harvest ripe fruit promptly so botrytis has fewer cool, humid, wet surfaces to colonize.
Japanese beetles
Pestmoderate- CulturalHandpick into soapy water· every 1 days · ~4 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
In early morning when beetles are sluggish, knock them into a bucket of soapy water; daily removal also reduces the scent that draws in more beetles. Skip the lure traps, which tend to attract more beetles than they catch.
- CulturalCover plants past bloommoderate evidence — extension confidence
On crops that have finished flowering and set fruit, drape a row cover or netting to keep beetles off without blocking pollination during bloom.
Leafhoppers & aster yellows
Diseasemoderate- CulturalRemove infected plants and weed reservoirsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Aster yellows can't be cured, so pull and discard plants showing yellowing and witches-broom, and clear nearby weedy hosts that harbor the phytoplasma and its leafhoppers.
- CulturalExclude leafhoppers with row covermoderate evidence — extension confidence
On young susceptible crops, a floating row cover keeps egg-laying leafhoppers off and lowers the chance of aster-yellows spread.
Powdery mildew
Diseasemoderate- CulturalImprove airflow + remove worst leavesstrong evidence — extension confidence
Cut out the most heavily coated leaves and thin for airflow; avoid wetting foliage late in the day.
- OrganicPotassium-bicarbonate or sulfur - label use only· every 1 wk · ~4 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Apply a labeled potassium-bicarbonate or sulfur fungicide weekly per the label. No sulfur within 2 weeks of oil or in high heat.
Root rot from overwatering / poor drainage
Diseasemoderate- CulturalLet soil drain and water lessstrong evidence — extension confidence
Water root rots like Pythium thrive in saturated soil, so cut back watering, let the surface dry between irrigations, and water at the base rather than keeping soil constantly wet.
- CulturalImprove drainage and aerationstrong evidence — extension confidence
Use raised beds, loosen compacted soil, and add organic matter to improve drainage; remove plants that are already rotted since affected roots won't recover.
Slugs & snails
Pestmoderate- CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.
- OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.
Tarnished plant bug / lygus
Pestmoderate- CulturalManage surrounding weedsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Keep broadleaf weeds mowed or removed around the garden, since lygus build up on flowering weeds and move to crops as those weeds dry down; avoid mowing large weedy areas right beside fruiting crops at bloom.
- CulturalVacuum or shake plants to monitor and reduce· every 5 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Tap plants over a light-colored tray to check for nymphs; a handheld vacuum used once or twice weekly can hold low to moderate numbers down on small plantings.
- OrganicTreat nymphs if damage is building· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
For active nymph infestations, azadirachtin or a Beauveria bassiana product can give some control per the label; preserve the parasitic wasps and other natural enemies that help suppress lygus.
Whiteflies
Pestmoderate- CulturalRemove infested leaves and hose off· every 4 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Pick off and discard heavily infested lower leaves and rinse colonies off undersides with a strong spray of water; yellow sticky cards help monitor numbers.
- OrganicApply a labeled soap or oil· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem oil per the label, covering leaf undersides; these reduce but won't eliminate whiteflies, so repeat as needed.
Cutworms
PestmoderateUnusual this time of year.
- CulturalPlace stem collars on transplantsstrong evidence — extension confidence
Push a collar (cardboard tube, can, or cup with bottom removed) a couple inches into the soil around each stem so it extends a few inches above ground; this blocks cutworms from reaching the stem.
- CulturalScout soil and hand-remove· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
In the evening or early morning, check the soil around damaged plants and remove curled larvae by hand; tilling beds about two weeks before planting also reduces larvae and pupae.
- OrganicApply a labeled Bt or spinosad· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
If damage continues, apply a labeled Bacillus thuringiensis (kurstaki) or spinosad product per the label, targeting small larvae; Bt works best on young first- and second-instar cutworms.
Aphids
Pestlow- CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.
- OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence
For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.
Bolting (premature flowering)
Disorderlow- CulturalShade and harvest before boltingstrong evidence — extension confidence
Once a plant bolts it can't be reversed, so harvest at the first sign of stalk formation; 30-50% shade cloth and steady watering during heat help delay bolting in cool-season crops.
- CulturalUse bolt-resistant varieties and succession sowmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Choose heat-tolerant, slow-bolt varieties and stagger small sowings so a heat spell doesn't take out the whole planting.
Earwigs
Pestlow- CulturalTrap and remove· every 1 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Set rolled damp newspaper, low tuna-style cans of oil, or short tubes near plants at dusk, then dump trapped earwigs into soapy water each morning; reduce mulch and damp hiding spots near vulnerable seedlings.
- OrganicApply a bait only if damage persists· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence
Established plants usually tolerate earwigs, which also eat aphids; if seedlings are being destroyed, a spinosad-based bait labeled for earwigs can help per the label.
Transplant shock
DisorderlowUnusual this time of year.
- CulturalWater in well and provide shade· every 1 days · ~1 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence
Water transplants in thoroughly at planting and keep the root zone evenly moist for the first week or two, and provide temporary shade during hot, sunny, or windy spells to reduce stress while roots establish.
- CulturalHarden off and plant gently next timestrong evidence — extension confidence
Most plants recover on their own; to prevent recurrence, harden off seedlings before planting, set them out in mild weather or evening, and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.