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Beet Microgreens

Beta vulgaris
Also known as: Beetroot, Garden Beet, Table Beet, Red Beet

Beet Microgreens is a microgreen in the Amaranthaceae family. It grows well indoors with medium moisture, and is listed for USDA zones 2-13. Plants reach harvest about 5–23 days after planting and sit about 3 inches apart.

Varieties

4 from Seeds Now & True Leaf Market · sorted by days to maturity
  • Dark Red Beet5–14 days

    Grows well with containers; Grows well with raised beds; Matures in <90 days; Start indoors; Super easy to grow

    These Dark Red Beets grow into gorgeous, tender sprouts with deep red shoots and delicate green leaves. An amazing earthy flavor rounds out this extremely rewarding micro-green. Beets can be the more difficult sprout to grow… but well worth it! It's the prettiest sprout there is (flame red) and can make any plate look and taste even better. Beets like warm air 75 - 78 degree temperature, humidity 80 - 86%, water temperature 70 degrees) and low light in the room for the first 3 days. The outer surface of a beet seed is like a sponge and can absorb a great amount of water. Please read these instructions carefully: Proper way to sprout Beet seed: Put beet seed in a bucket/tub/container Let the seeds soak in warm (not boiling and not cold) water for approx. 8 hours. Stir well in about 4 hours. Put in colander and Rinse with lukewarm water until the water that comes off is no longer brown. ⚠️ This is important, as red beet has the above water soluble anti-sprouting components (slime) on its hulls. This is a protection: otherwise, in nature, red beet would sprout in an environment that is not humid enough. Clever seed, isn’t it? Set aside in a warm room. Give NO WATER and it will sprout in approx. 24-48 hrs. Then, water as you would any of your other sprouts & micro-greens Happy planting!

    View on Seeds Now
  • Bull's Blood11–21 days

    Heirloom / Open Pollinated

    11-21 days. Beets are a more advanced microgreen but well worth the effort because of its stunning color and bold flavor. It takes a bit more time to mature, but once grown, the bright stems and leaves look fantastic on any dish!

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Detroit Dark Red (Conventional)11–21 days

    Heirloom

    11-21 days. Beets are a more advanced microgreen, but well worth the effort because of its stunning color and bold flavor. It takes a bit more time to mature, but once grown, the bright stems and leaves look fantastic on any dish!

    View on True Leaf Market
  • Rainbow Blend (Organic)12–23 days

    Heirloom; Organic; Vegetable; Annual

    12-23 Days to Harvest. Beta vulgaris. Organic Rainbow Blend Beet Microgreen Seeds. Non-GMO, organic, open-pollinated, heirloom. This colorful organic blend combines multiple beet varieties to produce a tray of microgreens with striking stems in white, yellow, and pink and leaves in crimson and green. The flavor is classic beet: earthy and mildly sweet, with a tender texture that works beautifully in salads, on grain bowls, and as a vibrant garnish. Beet microgreens grow easily in soil and are a great starting point for growers new to the crop — just note that hydroponic media is not suitable. A presoak of 4 to 8 hours before planting improves germination. For those who prefer certified organic seeds, this blend delivers the same vivid color and flavor as our conventional Rainbow Blend in an organic option. ~1,250 seeds/oz.

    View on True Leaf Market
Family
Amaranthaceae
Category
Microgreen
Form
Microgreen
Lifecycle
annual
Zone
2-13
Height
0.08333333333333333–1.5 ft
Spread
0.08333333333333333–0.5 ft
Sun
Indoors

Plant spacing

16 plants per square footSquare-foot planting diagram: a 1-foot square divided into a 4-by-4 grid holding 16 beet microgreens plants spaced 3 inches apart.
16 plants per square foot

In a square-foot bed, space beet microgreens about 3 in apart — that fits 16 plants in each 1-foot square (4×4). Wider rows or containers space the same.

Water
Medium

Plan your beet microgreens planting

Add beet microgreens to a free GardenDraft plan and get sow, transplant, and harvest dates computed for your ZIP code — with a drag-and-drop bed layout and reminders when it’s time to plant.

Start your free plan →

At a glance

Days to harvest
5–23 days
From transplant or sow to first harvest
Harvest style
Harvest once
One main harvest
After harvest
Stores well
Holds (or improves) after peak
Frost tolerance
Semi-hardy · to ~24°F
Lowest temperature the foliage usually survives
Succession
Re-sow every 14 days
Sow again at this interval for a continuous harvest
Germination
~65%
Typical minimum germination rate

Storing & preserving

Stores well in the right conditions. Trim tops and refrigerate, or store in damp sand in a cool spot for months.

  • Freeze: Blanch briefly, cool, then freeze — keeps color and texture.
  • Pickle: Quick-pickle or can as a pickled product.

General home-preservation guidance — for tested processing times and safety, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Growing timeline

When to plant and harvest beet microgreensPlanting timeline for beet microgreens, relative to last frost: grow from 4 weeks before last frost to 3 weeks before last frost; harvest from 3 weeks before last frost to 1 week before last frost.GrowHarvestLast frostDirect sow
Direct-sow beet microgreens 4 weeks before last frost; first harvest 3 weeks before last frost.
Outdoor planting
-28 to -14 days vs frost
Propagation
Seed
Schedule anchor
Last Frost

Companion planting — with cited sources

From US/Canada cooperative-extension publications and peer-reviewed studies. Evidence-tier dots show how strongly each recommendation is backed: ●●● peer-reviewed mechanism · ●● extension consensus · traditional knowledge with a plausible mechanism.

Pairs well with (3)

  • Common CabbageEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationsoil-conditioning

    Beets are commonly recommended near brassicas; both are moderate to heavy feeders in similar fertility windows and beet leaves return potassium-rich residues.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Common LettuceEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationshade-shelter

    Beets and lettuce share cool-season cultural needs and occupy different vertical layers (root vs. low canopy), making them efficient bed partners; no documented pest mechanism.

    Source: University of Maryland Extension

  • Common OnionEvidence tier C: Traditional practice with plausible mechanism but limited empirical replicationpest-deter

    Onion and beet are traditional bedfellows in extension home-garden guides; onion volatiles plausibly mask beet from leafminer flies, though direct trials are limited. Spatial use of bed is the main practical benefit.

    Source: S1, University of Maryland Extension

Avoid planting near (2)

  • Common SpinachEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsdisease-host, alternate-host-pest

    Beet and spinach share the spinach/beet leafminer (Pegomya hyoscyami) and Cercospora leaf spot. Avoid sequential plantings or interplant with caution.

    Source: S1, University of Maryland Extension

  • QuinoaEvidence tier B: Extension consensus across multiple US/Canada land-grant institutionsalternate-host-pest, disease-host

    Quinoa and beet share leafminer flies and several fungal leaf diseases; rotating or separating these chenopod crops is recommended.

    Source: S22, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada

Sources cited

S1
Cornell University Cooperative Extension — vegetable production guides
S22
University of Saskatchewan / Saskatchewan Ministry of Agriculture
S25
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
S9
University of Maryland Extension — Home & Garden Info Center

Care & troubleshooting— extension-sourced, with citations

When to feed, prune & water

Mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture

Mulch
  • Routine careApply organic mulch around plantsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Spread a few inches of straw, shredded leaves, or compost around established plants (keeping it off stems) to hold soil moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature; wait until soil has warmed for heat-loving crops.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

Plan crop rotation

Rotation
  • Routine careRotate plant families between bedsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting the same family in the same bed in consecutive years (aim for a 3+ year gap), grouping crops by family so soilborne diseases and pests that build up don't carry over to the next susceptible crop.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careSequence for soil healthmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Follow heavy feeders like tomatoes and brassicas with legumes or a cover crop to support soil fertility and structure, and keep simple notes each year so you can track where each family grew.

    Source: UMN Extension

Protect the garden from rabbits and voles

Protection
  • Routine careFence out rabbitsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Surround beds with 1-inch mesh chicken wire at least 2 feet tall with the bottom buried or staked down a few inches so rabbits can't push under it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

  • Routine careReduce vole habitat and guard stemsstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Keep grass and mulch pulled back from plant bases and crowns to remove vole cover, mow surrounding vegetation, and use hardware-cloth guards around vulnerable woody stems before winter.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell CCE

Thin beet-family seedlings

Thinning
  • Routine careThin clusters to one plant each· every 2 wks · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Beet/chard 'seeds' are clusters, so several sprout together. Thin to one strong seedling every 3-4 in; the thinnings are edible greens.

    Source: UMN Extension

Clean up debris and sanitize at season end

Sanitation

Unusual this time of year.

  • Routine careRemove spent plants and fallen debrisstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pull and clear old plants, dropped fruit, and leaf litter at season end, since many pests and diseases overwinter in this debris; dispose of diseased material rather than composting it.

    Source: UMN Extension; Cornell

  • Routine careClean tools, stakes, and cagesmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wash and sanitize stakes, cages, and tools that touched diseased plants before storing or reusing them to avoid carrying pathogens into next season.

    Source: Cornell; UMN Extension

Something looks wrong?

Describe what you see on your beet microgreensand we'll rank the likely causes — most likely first, least-invasive fix first.

Blister beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: swarms of elongated soft-bodied beetles; rapid defoliation of leaves and flowers; gray, black, or striped beetles clustered on plants; skeletonized foliage on tomatoes and beans

  • CulturalHand-pick wearing gloves· every 2 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Wear gloves (these beetles release a blistering fluid) and knock beetles into soapy water, or use row cover ahead of swarms; their larvae eat grasshopper eggs, so tolerate light feeding when you can.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicSpot-treat heavy swarms· every 1 wkmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If a large swarm threatens a planting, a pyrethrin or other labeled insecticide can knock them back per the label; avoid spraying open blooms to protect pollinators.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: Missouri Botanical Garden

Cercospora leaf spot on beet and chard

Diseasemoderate

Symptoms: small round spots with tan-to-gray centers and reddish-purple borders; spots coalescing and turning gray; heavy spotting on outer leaves; foliage browning and dying back in warm humid weather

  • CulturalRotate, space out, and water at the basestrong evidence — extension confidence

    The fungus survives on debris and spreads by splashing water, so rotate beds, space plants for airflow, and water at the soil rather than overhead. Remove and discard heavily spotted outer leaves and clear crop residue after harvest.

    Source: UMass Extension; UMN Extension

  • OrganicApply a copper fungicide if spreading· every 10 daysmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If spotting is severe and weather stays warm and humid, apply a labeled copper fungicide preventively per the label, before the disease takes over the planting.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMass Extension

Japanese beetles

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: leaves skeletonized between veins; lacy chewed foliage; metallic green-bronze beetles clustered on plants; feeding worst in warm midsummer sun

Potassium deficiency

Deficiencymoderate

Symptoms: yellowing and browning along older leaf margins; scorched curled leaf edges; weak stems; poor or uneven fruit ripening; symptoms starting on lower, older leaves

  • CulturalConfirm with a soil test firststrong evidence — extension confidence

    Edge scorch on older leaves has several causes, so get a soil test before adding potassium; over-applying can lock out magnesium and calcium.

    Source: UMN Extension; Missouri Botanical Garden

  • OrganicApply potassium per soil-test guidancemoderate evidence — extension confidence

    If the test confirms low potassium, apply a potassium source (such as sulfate of potash) at the labeled/test-recommended rate and keep watering even, since drought worsens uptake.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UMN Extension

Read: diagnosing leaf spots & yellowing

Slugs & snails

Pestmoderate

Symptoms: large ragged holes with smooth edges; slimy silvery trails; damage worst after rain and overnight

  • CulturalTrap, hand-pick at night, reduce cover· every 2 days · ~3 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Pick at night with a flashlight, set shallow beer traps, water in the morning so soil dries by dusk, and clear damp hiding spots.

    Source: UC IPM: Snails and Slugs

  • OrganicIron-phosphate bait - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Scatter a labeled iron-phosphate slug bait sparingly per the label; it's pet- and wildlife-safer than metaldehyde.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Wireworms

Pestmoderate

Unusual this time of year.

Symptoms: patchy poor germination; seedlings die in stretches; tunneled holes in potatoes and root crops; hard shiny orange-brown worms in soil; thinning stands after sod or grass

  • CulturalRotate away from grassy groundstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Avoid planting susceptible crops right after sod, pasture, or grass cover, where wireworms build up; rotate to a less-favored crop and let infested beds dry out between plantings.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms; UC IPM: Wireworms

  • CulturalBait-trap to monitor· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Bury pieces of carrot or potato or a handful of soaked wheat seed as bait when soil reaches about 50F, check after several days, and remove the worms you find to gauge and reduce pressure.

    Source: UMass Extension: Wireworms

Aphids

Pestlow

Symptoms: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and undersides; sticky honeydew or sooty mold; curled distorted new leaves; ants tending them

  • CulturalBlast off with water· every 3 days · ~2 wksstrong evidence — extension confidence

    Knock colonies off with a strong jet of water in the morning; repeat every few days. Light infestations rarely need more.

    Source: UC IPM: Aphids

  • OrganicInsecticidal soap - label use only· every 1 wk · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    For persistent colonies apply insecticidal soap to undersides per label. Avoid open flowers.

    Always follow the product label — it is the law.

    Source: UC IPM

Bolting (premature flowering)

Disorderlow

Symptoms: plant sends up a tall central flower stalk; leaves turn bitter; growth turns leggy; happens during heat and long days in lettuce, spinach, and brassicas

Leaf miners

Pestlow

Symptoms: winding pale tunnels inside the leaf; pale blotches between the upper and lower leaf surfaces; tunnels/blotches that can't be rubbed off because the larva is inside

  • CulturalPick mined leaves + row cover· every 5 days · ~3 wksmoderate evidence — extension confidence

    Remove and bag leaves with tunnels, and cover plants with insect netting to block the egg-laying flies. Damage is mostly cosmetic on leafy crops.

    Source: UMN Extension